The Ethnic Paris Cookbook [Hardcover]

Charlotte Puckette (Author), Olivia Kiang-Snaije (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: March 19, 2007

Paris is a great food city. Its unrivalled reputation spans the globe. The city's exceptional and delicious culinary scene has been slowly evolving so that today, eating in Paris is no longer limited to traditional French cuisine. Mouth-watering ethnic cuisine cooked, more often than not, by immigrants from former French colonies, has turned Paris into a delight for Epicureans who not only relish a traditional French confit de canard, but who also savor the flavors of a Moroccan prune tagine or a delicate Vietnamese Phô. The first book on the market to focus on the ethnic influences on Paris' haute cuisine, the more than 100 recipes-including starters, main courses, and desserts-are selected and adapted from internationally renowned chefs such as Fatema Hal of the Mansouria restaurant and Hisayuki Takeuchi of Kaiseki-Sushi, as well as from food lovers transplanted from places as varied as Vietnam, Morocco or Cameroon who are now established Parisians but retain their culture through their cuisine. But complex flavors don't necessarily mean complicated recipes. These are easy-to-follow recipes with step-by-step instructions. The regions included in this book are the Maghreb: Morocco, Tunisia and Algeria; Southeast Asia and China: Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos and China; Japan; Lebanon and Syria, and a selection of countries from former French West Africa and islands in the Caribbean and the Indian Ocean: Cameroon, Senegal, Reunion, Mauritius and Guadeloupe.

Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

Charlotte Puckette and Olivia Kiang-Snaije's The Ethnic Paris Cookbook is a colorful and lively guide to the best French cooking that's not traditional French cooking, with over 100 recipes inspired by Paris's international chefs, many from the former French colonies, and tips for the best ethnic restaurants and corner shops and ethnic markets in Paris. For a taste of what's inside, the authors have provided us with an exclusive recipe and guide to a restaurant that's not included in the book.

Le Coin des Gourmets

Right Bank 38, rue du Mont Thabor 75001 Paris Tel. [phone]

Left Bank 5, rue Dante 75005 Paris Tel. [phone]

Indochina was France's crown jewel during colonial times. As a reminder of the past, the streets of Paris are dotted with Vietnamese, Cambodian, and Laotian restaurants ranging from holes-in-the-wall to trendy and upscale establishments, but finding a restaurant that serves authentic cuisine from the region can be difficult. When the Ta family opened Le Coin des Gourmets in 1981, they made it their mission to introduce Parisians to their culinary culture. Back then, Vietnamese immigrant Mrs. Ta manned the kitchen with two of her eight children: her son Khim and daughter Barbara, recreating the mouth-watering dishes from Vietnam and Cambodia--her husband's native country--that the family ate at home.

Two years later, British-born New York restaurateur Brian McNally recruited Barbara and her husband to come help him launch Indochine, a fixture on New York's Lafayette Street since 1984, and one of the first restaurants to adopt the glamorous "French colonial" style. After a few years in New York, Barbara returned to Paris to open her own restaurant, also called Indochine, on the right bank. Last year, the Ta family decided to merge both restaurants, entirely renovating Indochine and renaming it Le Coin des Gourmets, like the original Left Bank locale. Both Vietnamese and Cambodian dishes are served in each restaurant, with an emphasis on freshness and authenticity. The Vietnamese dishes are light and clean tasting, while the Cambodian cooking is slightly richer, resembling Thai cuisine with less spice. The Cambodian specialty, Amok, a fish and coconut milk curry seasoned with lemongrass paste and steamed inside a banana leaf, is among the menu's many highlights.

Khim now oversees both kitchens while another brother, Chhim, a wine aficionado, acts as sommelier. Chhim recommends Chardonnays or white Burgundies to accompany Southeast Asian fare; these wines are powerful enough to complement the cuisine's spices without drowning them, and are fruity and well-suited to herbs like lemongrass or cilantro.

For other authentic specialties from Southeast Asia, the Ta family recommends two restaurants in Paris' Chinatown:

La Lune 36, Avenue de Choisy 75013 Paris Tel. [phone]

Melinda 30, Avenue Porte de Choisy 75013 Paris Tel. [phone]

Amok: Steamed Fish and Coconut Milk Curry

Amok is a classic Khmer dish and a staple eaten throughout Cambodia. As is often the case with popular dishes, recipes vary, depending upon who is in the kitchen. This is the version the Ta family serves at their restaurant:

Serves 4 Leftover lemongrass paste can also be used to marinate beef or chicken before grilling. Lemongrass Paste: 6 stalks fresh lemongrass 1 2-inch (5 cm) piece galangal, peeled and roughly chopped 6 shallots 6 cloves garlic ¾ teaspoon saffron 1.1 lb (500 g) white, firm-fleshed fish such as cod, catfish or snapper divided into 4 portions Marinade: 4 tablespoons Nuoc Mam 2 teaspoons sugar 2 eggs 7 oz can coconut milk 2-3 kaffir lime leaves, thinly sliced (or more to taste) 3 tablespoons lemongrass paste ½ white cabbage sliced into 2-inch (5 cm) pieces 1 fresh banana leaf

1. Prepare the lemongrass for the paste by cutting off the bottom of the bulb and trimming the stalk to leave 8-10 inches. Remove the tough outer leaves then chop lengthwise into 4 pieces. 2. Put the lemongrass along with the other ingredients for the paste into a food processor and blend until smooth. This mixture will keep for several days in the refrigerator. Makes 1 cup. 3. Cut each portion of fish into 2 to 3 pieces and put all of the pieces into a medium-sized bowl. Mix together the ingredients for the marinade and pour over the fish, turning the pieces evenly to coat. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour but not more than 2. 4. Meanwhile bring a pot of lightly salted water to a boil and blanch the cabbage leaves 8-10 minutes or until soft. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain; pat dry with paper towels. 5. Spread the banana leaf out on a work surface and wipe clean with a wet cloth. Using a sharp knife or scissors, remove the thick spine that runs along the edge of the leaf then cut out four 10-inch (25 cm) squares. Soften the squares to make them pliable by quickly dipping in boiling water or running over the flame of a gas burner. 6. Position a banana leaf square over a small bowl, shiny side down, and press into the bottom to form a well. Place 3 cabbage leaves in the well. Add one portion of the marinated fish, then a quarter of the marinade liquid. Bring up the sides of the banana leaf and fold over the ingredients to form a packet. Secure the edges with toothpicks. Continue with the rest of the ingredients to form 4 packets. 7. Place the packets in a steamer and cook over high heat for 1 minute. Reduce the temperature to low and continue steaming for another 10–12 minutes. When cooked, the packets should feel firm to the touch. 8. Transfer the packets to a warm platter and serve with sticky rice.

From Publishers Weekly

Taking a detour from the bistros and brasseries of Paris, this cookbook explores another side of the city's cuisine: its Moroccan cafes, phô kitchens and sushi bars. Exploring the culinary heritage of decades of immigrants, London-based journalist Kiang-Snaije and Cordon Bleu chef Puckette have solicited recipes from their favorite restaurants, along with the family favorites of Parisians from North Africa, Asia and the Middle East. Each chapter focuses on a particular country, beginning with a history of the region as well as an overview of its cuisine. The dishes here are earthy, simple and relatively inexpensive to make, like a Moroccan lamb tagine with canned artichokes and frozen peas, and a Warm Laotian Beef Salad with crisp vegetable garnishes. For the most part these are authentic recipes, and the authors assist in locating obscure ingredients—Argan oil, for example, can be obtained from a company in Michigan. The layout can be confusing, as recipe directions sometimes precede the ingredients list, but the book charms with quirky illustrations, literary quotes and personal vignettes. With listings for restaurants (including the best place to get couscous) and sidebars describing Tunisian greengrocers, Puckette and Kiang-Snaije have assembled an informative book that broadens the discussion of Parisian food while offering the Francophile home chef some alternatives to the standard croques monsieur. (Apr.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.

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Product Details

• Hardcover: 256 pages
• Publisher: DK ADULT (March 19, 2007)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0756626455
• ISBN-13: 978-0756626457
• Product Dimensions: 9.4 x 7.1 x 0.9 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1.9 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 4.8 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (8 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,028,350 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

3 of 3 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Great book for cooks, March 30, 2008

By 

Elizabeth Grimball (Charleston, SC) - See all my reviews
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A fabulous cookbook and Paris guide all in one! The recipes are authentic yet not intimidating. There are some that the most novice cook could make and more complicated ones for the more adventurous cook. All are easy to read and the descriptions make you want to try every single one. Make sure and read every word because the more you read the more addictive it becomes. You begin to smell it and feel it, and can't wait to cook it and taste it. I have loved sharing this with my friends and family - a great gift for anyone who loves ethnic food. It has it all!!

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Great Contemporary Take on Scores of Ethnic Treasures in France, February 28, 2008

By 

Elizabeth K. Buckley (Brooklyn) - See all my reviews
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This review is from: The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (Hardcover)

I've ordered this as a gift for the food lovers I know, and of course, myself. Excellent layout, robust historical background in clear, economic writing and simple, tasty recipes I've never seen the likes of. This one stays out for use in the kitchen, and is beginning to show the signs of love with sticky rings and dog-eared pages.

6 of 8 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars A Beautiful, Fun to Read and Delicious Cookbook, April 11, 2007

By 

Ella A. Dubose - See all my reviews
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This review is from: The Ethnic Paris Cookbook (Hardcover)

Charlotte Puckette and Olivia Kiang-Snaije have produced the most unusual and fasinating cookbook. They have focused on the many and varied ethnic restaurants in Paris, met the internationally famed chefs and culled more than 100 of their best recipes which are presented in this remarlkable, wonderfully readable and beautiful book. The recipes are easy and delicious! Bon Appetit!