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Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High [Paperback]

Mark F. Twight , James Martin , Don Graydon
4.9 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (33 customer reviews)

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Book Description

September 10, 1999
Big, high routes at the edge of a climber's ability are not the places for inventing technique or relying on old habits. Complacency can lead to fatal errors. So where does the hard-core aspirant or dreamer turn? The only master class in print, Extreme Alpinism delivers an expert dose of reality and practical techniques for advanced climbers.

Focusing on how top alpine climbers approach the world's most difficult routes, Twight centers his instruction on the ethos of climbing the hardest routes with the least amount of gear and the most speed. Throughout, Twight makes it clear that the two things he refuses to compromise are safety and his climbing ethics. In addition to the extensive chapters on advanced techniques and skills, Twight also discusses mental preparedness and attitude; strength and cardiovascular training; good nutrition; and tips on equipment and clothing.

Illustrated throughout with full-color photos.


Frequently Bought Together

Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast, and High + Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills: 50th Anniversary + Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)
Price for all three: $58.76

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Editorial Reviews

Review

...another quality mountaineering book from the sport's preeminent publisher, Mountaineers Books...entertaining reading. -- Wyoming Tribune-Eagle

Everyone from the hardened extremist to the aspiring tiger to the weekend punter will learn from this book -- Climbing magazine

Twight has been one of America's boldest alpine climbers for a couple of decades, and his book is a primer for serious mountaineers.(The Times-News (Twin Falls, ID)) --(The Times-News (Twin Falls, ID))

About the Author

Marc Twight is one of America's leading alpinists. His routes in Asia, North America, and the Alps have stretched the limits of the possible. Many remain unrepeated. His gripping accounts and vertiginous images of climbing at the edge have been published in leading magazines around the world. He lives in Boulder, Colorado. James Martin is a free-lance writer and photographer whose work has appeared in Smithsonian, Sports Illustrated, Climbing, Outside, and a host of other publications. The author of several books, Martin is also an experienced climber who has established first ascents in the U.S. and Canada. He lives in Seattle, Washington.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 238 pages
  • Publisher: The Mountaineers; 1st edition (September 10, 1999)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0898866545
  • ISBN-13: 978-0898866544
  • Product Dimensions: 7.3 x 9.1 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.9 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (33 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #166,543 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

Customer Reviews

4.9 out of 5 stars
(33)
4.9 out of 5 stars
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
56 of 57 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Also for the not so extreme alpinists... July 5, 2002
Format:Paperback
Mark Twight has not written an instruction book filled with clear drawings about how to tie a clove hitch. Beginning climbers looking for basic technique info should buy "Mountaineering: the Freedom of the hills" and go on a course first, but this does not mean that Twight's book is for extreme climbers only.

Any climber that knows these basic techniques benefits from his thoughs and experience. The book is divided in 4 parts:

(1) Approach: about 12 pages about your mental state of mind, very useful for the climber and anyone who wants to achieve specific goals as his thoughts about self-knowledge, focus, confidence, suffering, failure and learning can be applied to a broader range of goals.

(2) Training: this is the first time I have seen a real mountaineering training program in a book like this. He covers a 20 week training cycle in detail, with chapters on mental training, strength, endurance and importantly, nutrition. This really helps set a goal and work towards it. It's impossible to climb any mountain unprepared and unfit and depending on your goal you can adjust his schedule.

(3) Equipment: Clothing, Gear and Potection.
Twight has become (in)famous for refusing the accepted 3 layering system as it's too bulky, warm and heavy. He stresses the lightweight system which was an eye opener for me. Although his thoughts are not applicable for every mountain area (if you wait in Scotland for the rain to stop before climbing, you might as well not come at all...), it helped me to better pack my stuff for my trips: lighter and more useful.
His thoughts about gear are just very useful, learn from the expert, not from someone who is trying to sell the stuff...

(4) Technique:
No it will not teach you to climb a 5.14 at -40 degrees, but it covers things mostly overlooked in other books:
- Staying Alive
- Partners
- Going up
- Bivouacs
- Going down
Especially the latter 2 are things mostly ignored in climbing books (and some courses!), but these are things that also come in handy when lost in a not so extreme environment.

Overall I could not put this book down until I finished it.
The book is filled with experiences, good as well as bad. No drawings, but quite a lot of pictures, some of them useful for understanding the text, some just funny or cool to look at and dream away...
If you own Mountaineering: the Freedom of the Hills and you are not a complete beginner, buy this before you go higher, even if it's not extreme.

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20 of 21 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent insight by one of the world top alpine climbers November 18, 1999
By A Customer
Format:Paperback
This is THE best book I have ever read regardging climbing, period! It not only gives practical insights in to climbing but the nuts and bolts on training, gear selection and route selection for you ability. I especially found the sections on training to be extremely insightful. This is a topic never discussed in detail by any of the worlds top climbers. This book, the text and the pictures has done more to motivate me than all books combined. I know without a shadow of a doubt that I am ready and capable to move my climbing to a new level!
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7 of 7 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars An Alpine Bible? September 26, 2000
Format:Paperback
This book tells you everything experienced alpinist Mark Twight has learned 'climbing light, fast and high'. For those who want it, there's plenty of detail here, all delivered in an uncompromising style. Some of it's highly technical and probably only relevant to elite climbers, but even armchair alpinists could benefit from the nutrition, training and psychology advice.

Plenty of his advice contradicts the 'rules' - not taking waterproofs, placing protection with bare hands. But these practices have kept Twight alive during some of the hardest climbs ever done. And he readily admits that not everything works all the time, and you have to find your own solutions. But there's a lot of practical, sensible advice here, and at the very least it should make you question your own assumptions.

Easily the best book on alpine-style climbing available.

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Most Recent Customer Reviews
5.0 out of 5 stars A spiritual manifesto disguised as a mountaineering book
This book was one of the most influential texts I've ever read in my life.

When I first read it in the prime of my youth it was a groundbreaking book that would help me... Read more
Published 3 months ago by Robert M
4.0 out of 5 stars Technically dated, philosophically without peer
Extreme Alpinism is among a very small set of books every would-be alpine-style climber should read. Read more
Published 5 months ago by Brian Scoggins
5.0 out of 5 stars The New Bible
First: Read Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
Second: Read Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert)
Third: Climbing Self... Read more
Published 13 months ago by deezy
5.0 out of 5 stars still trying to figure this out after 10 years...
opening page in book has only this:

"For my mentors I owe you everything.
Strategy is beyond the techniques.
Technique is beyond the tools. Read more
Published 16 months ago by G. Ouellette
5.0 out of 5 stars A book for Serious Alpinists
Twight is kind of an elitist jerk, but this makes the book much better in my opinion. The big mountains (even small ones) is no place for emotional B.S. Read more
Published 20 months ago by Jake
5.0 out of 5 stars Extreme Alpinism
I bought this book on Kindle, but I now want to add it in hard copy to my "all time best climbing books" library. Read more
Published 23 months ago by James the Elder
5.0 out of 5 stars Excelente libro
Entrega exactamente lo que promete y más. La sección de entrenamiento es notable, asi como la de alimentación. Read more
Published on March 5, 2010 by Luis Roman Torres
5.0 out of 5 stars The definitive guide
Claims not to be a how-to book, but it's the best guide I've read for alpinists wanting to take the next step beyond the fundamentals to practices that take people 10 years or more... Read more
Published on September 16, 2008 by D. P. Mcgowan
5.0 out of 5 stars For experienced alpinists
Excellent book for the experienced alpinist! After reading this, I begin to rethink some of my approaches to mountaineering.. tweaking my load, my rack, and food. Read more
Published on May 3, 2008 by E. Ho
5.0 out of 5 stars Highly thought provoking and inspiring read for the experienced...
Learn from the best on how to climb hard, fast and high. Personal anecdotes and ideas to help you get to the top and make the most of your time in the alpine. Read more
Published on May 2, 2008 by C. D. Lo
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