Fashionable Food: Seven Decades of Food Fads [Hardcover]

Sylvia Lovegren (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: March 1995

Organized by decade, spanning the 1920s to the 1990s, this first complete history of "gourmet" food in America offers an irreverent approach to every food fad of the 20th century--from Crepe Suzettes to blue corn chips. Recipes, menus and illustrations for these "creations" can be found throughout. 40 photos.

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal

In recent years, the subject of food has been one primarily of seriousness verging on reverence. While that may be wholly justified, it's refreshing to have a good laugh (at ourselves) every now and then. Lovegren, an avid collector and reader of old cookbooks, brings us a history of America's eating fads from the 1920s through the 1980s. Unlike Harvey Levenstein's Revolution at the Table (LJ 2/1/88), which addressed U.S. gastronomy in relatively academic form, Lovegren's book is fanciful as she devotes herself to "some uniquely American culinary triumphs... and some uniquely American culinary disasters as well." Lovegren covers the effects on our tastes and eating habits of convenience products (e.g., kitchen appliances and canned foods) and of cultural events like Prohibition and the Depression. The book has many period-piece illustrations and well over 100 recipes, ranging from Blackened Redfish to "The Worst Salad of the Twenties" (Banana and Popcorn Salad). Useful as an idea source for theme parties and historical research on foods and their eras, this is recommended for popular culinary collections.?Wendy Miller, Lexington P.L., Ky.
Copyright 1995 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Review

"In recent years, the subject of food has been one primarily of seriousness verging on reverence. While that may be wholly justified, it's refreshing to have a good laugh (at ourselves) every now and then." - Library Journal; "In often hilarious fashion, Lovegren chronicles hundreds of wacky fads as the nation's cooks moved from frozen fishsticks and fat-free brownies to Szechwan shrimp alfredo." - St. Louis Post-Dispatch" --This text refers to the Paperback edition.

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Product Details

• Hardcover: 464 pages
• Publisher: John Wiley & Sons Inc; 1St Edition edition (March 1995)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0025757059
• ISBN-13: 978-0025757059
• Product Dimensions: 8.9 x 7.5 x 1.5 inches
• Shipping Weight: 2.2 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 4.1 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (8 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,205,219 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

8 of 8 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars A fun look at American food fads from the 20s to the 80s, April 5, 1998

By A Customer

This review is from: Fashionable Food: Seven Decades of Food Fads (Hardcover)

"Fashionable Food" serves up the most entertaining overview of mealtime in America since Jane and Michael Stern's "Square Meals." From tasty to trendy to just plain oddball, if it was embraced by the guardians of hearth and home, you'll find it here.

Relive the era of Prohibition with "Flapper Pudding", explore new frontiers of soup with a 1930s "Mystery Cake" courtesy of Campbell's, endure the restrictions of the 40s war years - and celebrate the glory of the "goodbye to rations" post-war era. Go swank with a 50s Cocktail Party or sophisticated as you explore 60s gourmet cuisine. Get back to earth with 70s health food and expand your palate with the regional foods of the 80s.

Sprinkled throughout are tantalizing tidbits from re-visiting old friends like The Mystery Chef and Sheila Hibben to rediscovering the wonders of Chinese and Hawaiian cuisine when they were new and exotic. From crockpots to fondues; from Betty Crocker to Alice Waters; from Trader Vic's to Elmer Fudpucker's; if it's part of our gastronomical history, it's part of this entertaining hodgepodge of American food.

7 of 7 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Definitely one of my favorite books, December 15, 2006

By 

Dale Hrabi (New York, NY United States) - See all my reviews

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This review is from: Fashionable Food: Seven Decades of Food Fads (Paperback)

The reviewer (below) who faulted this book for its inconsistencies has a point. I've noticed the same flaws in passing, but, for me, the pleasures of this book easily outweigh them. I ran across it by chance, have owned it for years, and return to it again and again--sampling favorite bits or random bits as a "I'm too tired to start a new novel--let's just read something familiar" bedtime read. I've often wanted to write the author to tell her how much satisfaction her book has given me; only the hassles and uncertainty of trying to mail something via a publisher deterred me.

It offers so many fascinating details. Her account of the rise of the '70s salad bar, or the economical toast-based suppers of the '30s. Marshmallow madness in the 20s, the "lie" of American "Chinese" food, etc. I'm in no way a "foodie"--a creepy word that suggests a minor character on that old HR Pufinstuf show--but this book is, in many ways, also a valuable social and pop-cultural history. So glad to see it's been reprinted.

13 of 16 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent Social History of American Recipes, July 7, 2005

By 

B. Marold "Bruce W. Marold" (Bethlehem, PA United States) - See all my reviews
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This review is from: Fashionable Food: Seven Decades of Food Fads (Paperback)

`Fashionable Food, Seven Decades of Food Fads' by culinary historian and food writer, Sylvia Lovegren is a great addition to the social history of American culinary folkways, especially with its concentration on actual, tested recipes from each of the seven subject decades from the 1920s to the 1980s. It is an interesting contrast in approach to `Something from the Oven' by Laura Shapiro that deals more with narrative and less with recipes. The ideal book would have been a combination of the two techniques.

The most important thing to remember is that Ms. Lovegren is talking about things that were `fashionable', not with the demographics of food habits. As Ms. Shapiro points out in her book, the advent of the convenience foods after World War II did not permeate American cooking. They, along with their most vocal proponent, Poppy Cannon, got a lot of attention, but were always viewed as shortcuts and not necessarily a tectonic shift in American cooking habits.

Reading a version of this book revised and republished in 2005 makes me wonder why the author did not update the material in this book to cover the last 15 years, where the playing out of so many trends, and the origin of so many new ones would have added so much interesting material to the book. The advent of the Food Network alone may have warranted a chapter. In all, the coverage of food journalism, especially TV food journalism is just a little thin. Dione Lucas and Jeff Smith (the Frugal Gourmet) are mentioned briefly and Julia Child is given her due for her truly incredible influence on American eating, but there is no mention of, for example Martin Yan, the Galloping Gourmet, and local TV cooking shows. While I take the book at its word since my interest in culinary writing is no more than three years old, I get the sense that virtually everything the author says about the 1980s is still true today. There is little that was popular in 1985 that is not a hot item on today's cooking shows or in today's cookbooks.

On the other hand, I applaud the attention the author gives to M.F.K. Fisher's statements and writings. Ms. Fisher is too easily forgotten in the towering shadow of Julia Child and the leading current distaff celebs, Alice Waters and Deborah Madison. That doesn't mean Ms. Waters and Ms. Madison are not given their due. I especially like the fact that Ms. Lovegren has not taken sides on the issue of who originated the `California Cuisine'. The primary contenders are Alice Waters and Jeremiah Tower, Chez Panisse and Waters' first major chef who helped set the course for Chez Panisse along the lines laid out by Richard Olney's writings on `simple French food'.

Like all good social and cultural history, the book does its share of explaining interesting facts, such as why the Chinese ended up in so many tailor, laundry, and cooking jobs. It was, according to Ms. Lovegren, simply because these were women's occupations and therefore virtually the only ones open to former Chinese railroad workers.

In addition to the seven main chapters on the decades, there are two interludes, one covering early Chinese food and the other covering other oriental foods in America. Here again, we seem to miss any coverage of the increase of popularity in Thai and Vietnamese food. The focus on the `other oriental foods' highlights `Trader Vic' restaurants and their founder, Victor Bergeron.

The thing I like the best about this book is that it does not equate `fads' with `poor quality'. In fact, several `fads' later in the author's decades are the `foodie' movement toward more interesting food, the health food agenda which improved the quality of its regimen over the decades, and the still growing interest in locally grown foods. This is why it is so important for the book to include good working recipes.

The absence of a lot of analysis ties into another weakness with this book in that so many food trends did not recognize decade boundaries. Conventional wisdom, for example, commonly defines `the sixties' as being roughly between the assassination of President Kennedy / Arrival of the Beatles and the resignation of President Nixon closing out the Watergate scandal. I think it would have been more interesting and more accurate to follow individual food trends through the years rather than to chop up the trends into arbitrary decades.

I am struck, for example, by the fact that three major food trends important today had their origins in the sixties. The first and most obvious is the foodie movement with Julia Child as its fountainhead. The second is the health foods / organic food movement spearheaded by Adele Davis' writings plus the great influence of Rachel Carson's `Silent Spring'. I will go out on a limb here and say that the third major movement is in the influence of regional / cultural cuisines growing out of the `soul food' movement. As the author so accurately points out, people have been eating collards, okra, and black eyed peas for centuries, but it took the civil rights / black pride movement to make an icon of this aspect of black culture.

As befitting a book published by the University of Chicago press, this book has good scholarly accouterments, including careful references to the sources of all recipes plus proper cautions on recipes which were not tested by the author or her colleagues. I must give the copy editor a slap on the hand for missing the misspelling Jeremiah Tower's first name in the Preface, especially since Monsieur Tower's name is properly spelled later in the book.

This is an excellent, highly enjoyable book to read and an interesting source of `historical' recipes. It would be great to see it brought up to date.