After looking around for a safe for awhile, I found that there really aren't many choices unless you want to spend alot more money. This safe was the best deal, and best reviewed, I could find in the 2 cu. ft. range. (Sentry safes either have a poor electronic lock, or a dial that feels of cheap plastic and is difficult to turn)Anything smaller than 2 Cu. Ft. was just a waste of money in my opinion, as some valuables might actually be longer, or wider, than a piece of paper.
I wanted to buy this safe, but what is the sense of having a safe that can be carried away without much effort? I mean 150 lbs isn't light by any means, but it isn't very heavy either. This safe slides across carpet fairly easily and can be carried by 2 guys without much strain. One guy carrying a bag of concrete has more weight than he would sharing the weight of this safe. After not finding anything that I could secure to the wall, that compared in price/quality, I decided to buy it anyway, figuring I would use my carpenter skills to devise a way to keep it in place.
It was delivered by an actual delivery company and carried to my desired location in the house. No dents, scratches, or even box damage. First thing I did was take off the 4 brackets that hold the wheels and handle. After taking out the 24 screws that held these brackets, I noticed the 24 holes in the back of the safe.(There are plastic plugs included to fill these holes) Since the brackets are wrapped around the poles that hold the handle and wheels, it makes for an easy template. I took the brackets and laid them over 2 pieces of Oak that were wider than the safe(one to cross horizontally over the top set of brackets and one to cross the bottom) and by sticking a pencil thorugh the bracket holes, matched the pattern of the holes. I drilled out those holes with a drillbit. I wasn't able to use the screws that were used in the brackets because they were too short, so I used screws long enough, with slightly bigger threads. I lined up my holes in the wood to the holes in the safe and screwed it together. Then I backed the safe up to the wall and lined it up with studs on both sides(which is why I used wood wider than the safe). Predrilled 2 holes, lined up with the studs, on each side of both pieces of wood(8 holes total) and then used a countersink bit on those holes so the screws I secure into the wall will sink below the surface of the wood.(if using bolts, you will need a forstner bit to allow the bolt head to sink below the surface of the wood). Once the safe was secured to the wall, I filled in the tops of the holes with putty, stained the wood and I was done. Now a thief with a lot of time and tools, could still notice the putty hole, dig out the putty, take out the screws and be off, but I like my chances. I should note that I also used square head screws as it is much rare that a thief would have the means to unscrew them(unless you're in canada.
Other than that, I can't comment on any long term performance of the safe, or electronic lock, itself as I havent had it long. I will say the directions worked just fine for me to program a new code except the first time I tried, I screwed it up and had to wait 15 minutes to try again(the directions say you have 3 chances to screw up before it cuts you off for 15 minutes).
Anyway, I'm not recommending you do what I did, but I thought it was worth sharing.
One last thing, the brackets are secured to the poles that hold the wheels and handle, but they do spin around the poles and move up and down. I would recommend if anyone tries this, that they reattach the brackets to the safe so that they are lined up on the pole where they need to be so your template is accurate. When they are mounted on the safe, take a marker or pencil and mark the poles where the brackets line up. Then when you take the brackets back off, you will know that they are lined up where they need to be.