Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration (2nd Edition) [Paperback]

Elizabeth G. Leichty (Author), Della Poterburg-Steineckert (Author), Judith A. Rasband (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: August 3, 2009 | ISBN-10: 1563677830 | ISBN-13: 978-1563677830 | Edition: 2

This textbook teaches students how to recognize, evaluate, and correct fit for over 100
figure variations. The book utilizes a multi-method approach that is both logical and easyto-
follow, and each procedure is clearly identified and fully-illustrated. The second edition
will include new information concerning figure evaluation, methods for working with
multi-sized patterns, and instructions for correcting garments that have more than
one fit problem.

Editorial Reviews

About the Author

Elizabeth Liechty is a Professor Emerita at Brigham Young University in Utah. She has taught classes to adult and student learners in the clothing, fitting, and tailoring fields.

Judith Rasband, ITAA, is the founder and CEO of Conselle L.C. and Executive Director of the Conselle Institute of Image Management, an organization involved in the creation of education materials on appearance-related topics. She combines 30 years of experience in fashion education and business. A veteran educator, she has taught secondary-level, community college, and university courses in clothing selection and construction.


Della Pottberg-Steineckert is a Teaching Professor Emerita at Brigham Young University. She pursued a teaching career as a secondary educator of home economics and adult education plus university-level clothing construction, patternmaking, draping and fitting. She taught at the Florida State University while earning a doctoral degree. During her 29 years of teaching at Brigham Young University she originated and developed the "seam method" of pattern alteration and was awarded the distinction of "Outstanding Teacher" and being selected as the Virginia Cutler Lecturer . She also developed and directed the Intermountain Sewing and Needlework Conference.

Product Details

• Paperback: 496 pages
• Publisher: Fairchild Pubns; 2 edition (August 3, 2009)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1563677830
• ISBN-13: 978-1563677830
• Product Dimensions: 9 x 1.2 x 12 inches
• Shipping Weight: 3.1 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (13 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #217,189 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

44 of 45 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars Very comprehensive December 19, 2009

By E. Holt

Format:Paperback|Amazon Verified Purchase

I cant rave enough about this book. It is broken down into 3 main sections:
1)Style selection for body type
2)Fitting
3)Alteration.

The Fitting and Alteration sections are then broken down into 3 different methods.
Fitting section covers the Measurement method, Tissue fitted method and Trial garment methods of Fitting.

The Alteration section studies the Seam method, the pivot method and the 'corrected' slash method.

In all cases the book is unbiased as it studies the various methods for acheiving the same things.

The last 300 pages is a fully expanded reference of just about every possible pattern alteration. It gives details of how the alteration would be done no matter which method you use.

This is probably the most comprehensoive book on the subject, and certainly the most comprehensive on the subject of the seam method of alteration.

I have many books on Fitting and alteration and this is by far my favorite. It will be one I refer back to as long as I sew and draft patterns.

30 of 30 people found the following review helpful

5.0 out of 5 stars Can't live without this book! January 30, 2010

By M. Cunningham

Format:Paperback|Amazon Verified Purchase

I have the previous edition of this book and it was always my go to book, but the new additions are priceless. The information on what order to do your measuring plus the order to do your alterations is something no seamstress should be without. The improvements on where to hinge with little scissors and big scissors in color is so helpful. If you have ever struggled with altering your pattern only to create a distortion or change something that didn't need changing, this book is for you. I had mine spiral bound so it can lay open flat on my cutting table.

35 of 37 people found the following review helpful

4.0 out of 5 stars The Most Comprehensive Resource August 27, 2010

By NuJoi VINE™ VOICE

Format:Paperback|Amazon Verified Purchase

I waited a long time for this book. I viewed it as the answer to my many alteration woes. I purchased several other books until I got my hands on this one.

All in all, I'm pleased with it. It's not perfect, but it is the most complete resource I've found. It's pricey, but I think it's worth it. Others have suggested buying an older edition. The nerd in me won't allow that :-)

The book is organized into three sections. Things don't get good until Part Two. This is where the book goes into body types, ways to fit and a discussion of the various ways to alter a pattern.

Part Three is what you pay for -- figure variations and how to alter patterns for them. This covers 88 figure variations. For each, you are shown how to do the alteration via the seam method, pivot/slide method and slash method. I love that the book provided all three methods for each variation! I'm a little sad because it doesn't give info on how to adjust wrap skirts or tops.

Let me back up and give you the full picture: for each variation, the book explains what the issue is (figure evaluation); the problems it causes (fitting problems); how to alter for the problem in RTW and the muslin; gives body measurement positions and pattern measurement comparison. Then it gives you the correction for flat pattern alteration using three methods. This book is fantastic.

It's fantastic, but not perfect. While you get more detailed instructions regarding using the three methods to alter a basic pattern piece (like a darted bodice), the book gives you smaller reference pictures showing how the seam method would be used on other styles, like an empire-waist bodice. These are pictures only. I wish there were written isntructions too. My other criticism is that the for most of the alterations, it does not tell you the maximum adjustment amount you can make using any of the methods.

I hate the circa 80s apparel drawings. These are a direct lift from the first edition of Fabulous Fit. What irks me to no end is the use of "ideal" when referring to a figure variation. "There is more weight deposit an/or muscle development than average/ideal." How dare you. Make the comparison to "conventional standards" or something, but please don't say "ideal." It's absolutely offensive.

Now that I have this book, the Palmer/Pletsch books (Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Pattern (Sewing for Real People series) and Pants for Real People: Fit and Sew for Any Body (Sewing for Real People series)) and Pattern Fitting With Confidence(pivot and slide method), I'm glad I have them all. This book covers more figure variations, but you get more detailed alteration information in the other books. They all work well together. Now what you don't need is Fabulous Fit: Speed Fitting and Alteration (2nd Edition), all of its info is contained this book (at least the first edition; I haven't seen the second). This is a textbook, so I imagine students are getting hands-on practice with each alteration, so they don't need the additional detail in the other books.

So the question is can this be your only fit and alterations book? The answer isn't a simple yes or no. If you are familiar with the three fitting methods and are looking for a single resource for all three, then the answer is yes. Now for beginners, it really depends. I needed the other books for the detail; I just couldn't grasp how to do some of the alterations. This book is a must-have for me; you may not need the level of detail I did.