Customer Reviews

The Flavors of Southern Italy

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`The Flavors of Southern Italy' by Erica De Mane is one of the most revealing expositions of a regional cuisine I have had the pleasure to read. This includes about twenty books covering Italy, regions of Italy, France, regions of France, Morocco, regions of China, and regions of the United States, plus several on the Mediterranean as a whole and the Arabic lands of the Mediterranean. The quality of the presentation is due to the most distinctive approach revealed clearly in the title of the book.

Most writers on regional cuisines do a gloss on the ingredients of the cuisine and proceed to a presentation of many of the classic dishes of the region. This is certainly the approach of the three different books I have read and reviewed on the cuisine of Rome. As long as the recipes are reasonably authentic and not the author's overly interpreted versions of these representative dishes, this approach can be quite good, as it is in these three treatments of Roman food.

Ms. De Mane's approach is most similar to the ingredients driven monograph `The Essential Mediterranean' by co-Italian specialist Nancy Harmon Jenkins.

Ms. De Mane makes no claim whatsoever to being true to the recipes of southern Italy. This is not to say there are not some authentically Italian dishes here, but this is not Ms. De Mane's game. Her book is not on the recipes of southern Italy, it is on the FLAVORS of southern Italy. Her approach to her subject begins with a very long chapter entitled `Essential Southern Italian Flavoring Ingredients'. This chapter covers virtually every major spice, herb, and condiment used in southern Italian cooking plus sections on olive oil, tomatoes, peppers and chilies, salumi, cheeses, nuts, and wine. The remainder of the book is organized not by course as is tradition with many other Italian cookbooks, but primarily by principle ingredient or type of preparation. In this way, salads and appetizers are not treated in a separate chapter. They are presented with other dishes with a common principle ingredient.

The chapters of recipes are:

Vegetables, including sections on shopping, cooking, and making salads
Seafood, including sections on buying and flavoring seafood
Meats and Poultry, including sections on typical usage and cooking for a group.
Savory Tarts, including sections on pizza and calzones.
Soups
Pasta
Desserts

The book ends with a chapter on the author's favorite southern Italian wines and a chapter on menus.

The author's definition of southern Italy is comprised of the provinces, in order of emphasis, of Sicily, Apulia (heel of the boot), Campania (Naples, Capri and the Amalfi coast), Basilicata (instep of the boot), and Calabria (toe of the boot). Sicily, Apulia, and Campania are the rich regions, which produce great quantities or olives, grapes, and wheat. Calabria and Basilicata are poorer, having a geography inhospitable to agriculture.

The author's strategy in the book is based, among other things, on three important aspects of what is available to her. First, many native southern Italian products simply do not travel well beyond their native land, in spite of the author's access to an excellent Manhattan source of Italian foods, DePalo Cheese, run by a family native to Basilicata. Luckily, this problem does not affect most classic ingredients like olive oil, hard cheeses, procuitto, and wines. Second, many Italian salumi products cannot be imported into the United States. Third, for many fresh ingredients, native American products are actually superior to what is available in Italy.

While the author relishes the wealth of American ingredients, she remains true to the Italian simplicity, especially in salads and soups. Unlike American and French salad constructions, she does not pile in everything but the kitchen sink. On the other hand, some classically influenced dishes such as the recipe for meatballs with green beans and potatoes does have a rather large ingredients list; however, the recipe is for meatballs, green vegetable, and starch.

My conviction that this is a superior treatment of it's subject is based on the fact that it says nothing which disagrees with things I have heard and read from reliable sources and it tells me much about the skillful use of many classic ingredients which I did not know or fully appreciate before.

If you are fond of an authentic Italian approach to food, like good writing about food, or are simply an all around foodie, then get this book. The spirit is all Italian, but the ingredients are very supermarket friendly. No heavy use of truffles or porcini or balsamic vinegar or even Parmesano Reggiano here. Unfortunately, you will probably feel just a bit left out if you don't have a good source of buffalo mozzarella at hand.

Highly recommended, especially for salads, vegetables, seafood, and pasta recipes. Intermediate skill level.

There are Italian cookbooks enough to build a Great Wall of Italy, but this one stands out.

DeMane knows her stuff and writes for respected publications like Food and Wine. She adapts traditional recipes for US home cooks who might not have a lot of timr or access to "weird" ingredients. The book is formatted based on tastes. In the mood for tomato? Find a great tomato recipe! Want something sweet and tangy or bitter? You'll find the recipe to suit your tastes and culinary skills.

This is a great book for entertaining! The recipes are fool-proof and DeMane's menus are wonderful. Try the Roasted Figs with Gorgonzola for a great starter, side dish or even dessert, yummy!

8/9/2004

THE FLAVORS OF SOUTHERN ITALY

By Erica De Mane

"I am convinced that the foods a person cooks best embrace the flavors he or she grew up with. All the recipes in this book reflect my childhood. This is a very personal collection of recipes and thoughts on cooking, all anchored by the flavors of southern Italy." This is the opening statement in DeMane's introduction. This came as a surprise to your reviewer who found many recipes not usually associated with Italian cuisine. "I hope my love of southern Italian flavors and eating and cooking will rub off on you," she ends.

Glancing at the Contents, DeMane devotes 64 pages to lining out various techniques which set Italian cuisine apart from other foods. She pairs certain ingredients: Fennel and Saffron, Pancetta and Salami, Pine Nuts and Raisins, Tomato Paste and Sun-Dried Tomatoes and more. These pairing are a tip-off of what's to come. In addition to the usual sections on Seafood, Soups and Pasta, she includes one on Savory Tarts, Pizza Neapolitan Style, also Calzone. After Desserts, she shares special menus and her take on "My Favorite Southern Italian Wines."

Here are some of the recipes she includes in this complete book:

Wheat Berries with Zucchini, Pine Nuts and Ricotta

Plum Tomatoes Baked with Caprino, Rosemary and Black Olives (Caprino is the Italian word for goat cheese)

Baked Eggs with Winter Tomato Sauce

Coleslaw with Sicilian Flavors

(these include pine nuts, raisins, peperoncino chili, sugar and nutmeg)

Tuna Tatare Crostini with Capers and Avacado

Mussels with Mascarpone, Green (shoots) Garlic and Spring Herbs

Steak and Celery Salad with Capers and Romaine

Duck Pizzaiola with Red Vermouth

Pizza with Escarole, Fontina and Baked Eggs

Chicken Soup with Pumpkin, Escarole and Marsala

Dried Figs with Almonds and Chocolate

The arrangement of recipes in menus at the end of the book are clearly foods expertly prepared for other fine Italian cooks. She closes the book with a menu she titles, "A Birthday Dinner for Myself," and which "I cook myself ... since I cook with all the flavors I love best, always including anchovies, cheese and luscious red wine."

I have the author's pasta cookbooks and I am so glad to finally have a collection of more diverse recipes. I find her writing very warm and friendly with cooking advice given that is neither pretentious or intimidating. Many of the recipes can be made with whatever you have in the kitchen. This is a cookbook to be enjoyed by everyone with every level of cooking expertise.

I don't have a preference for Italian cuisine, other than for its general weeknight-dinner-friendly simplicity, and I own about sixty cookbooks. So I am a little perplexed at realizing that I have adopted a higher proportion of its recipes into regular rotation that of any other one I own. I think it's because they're technically simple, feature direct and vivid flavors and available ingredients, and tend to work. Heavily repeated successes have been: sausages with grapes, roast pork with bay leaves and fennel, peperonata with almonds, spaghetti with cockles (I sub clams), zucchini and tomato gratin, grilled leg of lamb, bruschetta w/ marjoram -- and I've had one-time success w/ many more. I've actually wrecked my first copy had to order a new one. Weak point is desserts, including, in my experience, the gelati (which ought to be good, right? Except maybe that's something most Italians would never make at home?) But no cookbook is strong in every category, and Erica admits she's not a sweet-lover. Great book.

I must see photographs of final meal and/or ingredients. It's not complete without pictures with just a text.

I didn't want to try to cook anything from this book.

Written like a true Italian! After spending weeks in Italian kitchens, I found this to be the first book that represents how chefs cook in Italy - a handful of this, a pinch of that...worth every penny. You won't be disappointed!

I love this book and this author! After making a single recipe and reading just a few pages I was hooked, and am now an Erica De Mane fan. I've read the book cover to cover and refer to it often.

Others have described the contents better than I can. Surprisingly, the recipes are quite healthful without making any claim to be so. I highly recommend this book.