Fodor's Belize & Guatamala 3ed
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Destination: Belize and GuatemalaIn this particular historical moment, in a swiftly transforming part of the world, Belize and Guatemala emanate a kind of innocence inspiring thoughts of how life should always be. Many head for Belize in particular and never make the return trip, lulled by the serenity, the possibility, and the simple way of life. And yet, in Guatemala's case, there's a knowing sense of just how wrong things can go: unspeakably beautiful natural landscapes and a rich cultural heritage are paired with an unstable political past and unpredictable natural disasters. The most recent disaster starred Hurricane Mitch, which, in 1999, rubbed up against Belize and Guatemala, giving them a good scare, but then went on to devastate Honduras and Nicaragua to the south, leaving over 2 million homeless and 10,000 dead. It is this type of provocative contradiction that exemplifies Central America's allure, although, as in Costa Rica, the pendulum swings less between these poles in Belize and Guatemala than elsewhere on the Central American isthmus.
Central America is and will remain a place of spectacular natural beauty and rich cultural history. It is home to some of the friendliest people a traveler can ever hope to meet.
Archaeological RuinsThe ancient Maya empire, which once occupied much of present-day Guatemala and stretched north into Mexico, east into Belize, and south into Honduras and El Salvador, disintegrated in the middle of the 16th century, leaving one of the richest cultural and archaeological legacies in the world. Only a fraction of the thousands of Maya ruins has been excavated from the jungle that has swallowed the once-splendid cities over the centuries. Of the many sites in the northern Guatemalan department of El Petén, Tikal is the most majestic, its spectacular temples towering above pristine rain forest; a visit to the top of Temple IV is an unforgettable experience. Although the ruins here are somewhat more excavated than elsewhere in Guatemala, evidence of the Maya are everywhere in the area, from the harder-to-reach Aguateca ruins to the crumbling pottery in Belizean caves. In Belize, Maya ruins are clustered in the north and west; the most impressive sites include Altun Ha, 45 km (28 mi) north of Belize City; Lamanai, the oldest Maya site in the country, about 2[1//2] hours west of Belize City; and Caracol, a few miles from the Guatemalan border.
Bird-WatchingBelize and Guatemala will make a bird-watcher out of anyone. Those who make it their business to memorize their field guide will have to share their binoculars with one and all when toucans at Tikal, flying one at a time, from tree to tree, capture the attention and interest of groups that turn away from the ruins to watch. If you're a skilled birder in search of the hard-to-find motmot, you can go off the beaten path to Guatemala's Lake Izabal or stay on it, and make a beeline for Belize's Cayo. Of course, Guatemala's Quetzal Reserve is the place to see the elusive long-feathered quetzal. Come here between April and June when your chances are greatest.
Nature's BountyNearly two-thirds of the estimated 4.5 million species of animals and plants on earth live in the tropics -- making moist tropical forests the most species-rich ecosystems on the planet. Belize and Guatemala thus have between them a nearly unfathomable natural wealth. To preserve this natural heritage, the Guatemalan government has set up protected areas known as
biotopos and a national park system, both of which, despite chronic underfunding, aim to preserve both the country's natural resources and wildlife, and its immense archaeological heritage. In Belize, the promotion of ecotourism has resulted in well-run national parks, nature reserves, and wildlife sanctuaries. Many of the protected areas in both countries are in remote locations and are often difficult to reach; some are accessible only by all-terrain vehicles and even boat trips through the jungle. As long as you're prepared for the long journey ahead, getting there will indeed be half the fun.
Scuba Diving and SnorkelingIt's no secret that the Barrier Reef, a coral necklace stretching the length of Belize, offers some of the world's best diving. The reef is not only the longest in the Western Hemisphere, but also the most spectacular: clear, unpolluted water and a smorgasbord of marine and coral life make diving here an exhilarating experience. Although the diving is excellent almost anywhere along the reef, the very best is around the many coral atolls farther out to sea, where you can take some of the most spectacular wall dives in the world -- the water falls away, within sight of the shore, to as much as 3,000 feet. Particularly spectacular is the diving around Turneffe Island and Lighthouse Reef, site of the famous Blue Hole; first dived by Jacques Cousteau in 1970, this has become something of a pilgrimage for divers from all over the world. Snorkelers will want to head to Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark-Ray Alley -- you'll be amazed at what you can see without a tank.
SportfishingSome of the most exciting sportfishing in the world lies off the coast of Belize. Fly-fishing is excellent on the shallow flats between the reef and the coast, giving anglers one of their few opportunities to achieve the "triple crown" -- tarpon, bonefish, and permit -- in one day. Out to sea, pelagics like sailfish, wahoo, and marlin abound. Several specialty resorts and fishing camps, such as Turneffe Flats, El Pescador, and the Setee River Lodge, cater to the angler, but most hotels can help you organize excellent fishing trips.
