Fodor's Bahamas 2001
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Destination: The BahamasBahamians like to tell the story -- whether real or apocryphal -- that American astronauts retuning from orbit declared that they could recognize only two sights from space: the Great wall of China and the waters of the Bahamas. It wouldn't be surprising, for the sea is the prevailing feature of this country of more than 700 islands. The sea is geography, attraction, livelihood, and inspiration all in one. Without the sea, the Bahamas would lose its
raison d'être.Even though you can reach it in less than an hour's flight from the Florida coast, the Bahama's singular natural beauty and exotic appeal make it seem more like a far-flung outpost. Picture a tiny cay (pronounced "key") ringed by lacy casuarina pines, stately palms, and silken sands that meet the startlingly hued sea. The water ranges from pale aqua to deep sapphire, the spectrum changing hourly as the relentless Bahamian sun sweeps across the island sky. As you lie on the beach, a distant boat plies the calm waters. A lonely gull swoops by overhead, surprised to see that he has company. A single set of footprints -- yours -- crosses the strand. In many ways, you realize, things have changed very little since Christopher Columbus arrived here in 1492.
BeachesYou're standing in water so clear you can see straight down to your toes; in the distance, the sea becomes the patchwork of emerald, aqua, and sapphire that you thought existed only in postcards. The torrid Bahamian sun beats inexorably down, and golden sands stretch toward infinity. As you look around, you realize there's only one thing you don't see: other people. And that -- sun, sea, sand -- is the appeal of the Bahamas in a nutshell. Best of all, the concept of private beaches doesn't apply here: all beaches in the Bahamas are public up to the high-water mark. Of course, land access can be restricted, so you may need to boat into that unspoiled Eden. But if you can get there, it's yours -- for the afternoon, anyway.
DiningMost Bahamian cuisine looks to the sea, which provides a cornucopia of fresh products; meat, on the other hand, is often imported and consequently expensive. The islands' signature seafood is the conch. This slow-moving creature abounds in the shallow waters of the Bahamas, and consequently finds its way onto many a menu; its widely touted aphrodisiacal qualities don't hurt its popularity either. Grouper is the headline fish, and you can feast on it and other fish from dawn to dusk if you so desire. For breakfast, you might try "boil fish," cooked with salt pork, onions, peppers, and spices, or "stew fish," in a rich brown gravy -- both are usually served with grits or mildly sweet johnnycake.
FishingThis country is an angler's dream. Light tackle, heavy tackle, fly-fishing, deep-sea fishing, reef fishing, fishing for blue marlin, bonefishing -- you name it. Fishing in the Bahamas starts in the waters of Bimini off the Florida coast and ends at the southernmost island, Inagua, on the northern edge of the Caribbean. Tournaments pop up all over the Out Islands during the year -- Bimini alone has a dozen.
GolfGolfers will find some enticing courses, most of them with refreshing sea views. The 18-hole, par-72 championship courses on New Providence and Paradise islands are all spectacularly beautiful and will put your swing to the test. Cable Beach Golf Club is on West Bay Street in Nassau, across the boulevard from Breezes. The course at South Ocean Beach & Golf Resort, an elegant spot on the island's south coast, is secluded and scenic. A third course, Paradise Island Golf Club, covers most of the east end of Paradise Island. All three courses are open to the public, and instruction is available.
Sailing and SeafaringCrystal seas tinted every color from deep sapphire to pale aqua are dotted with tiny, palm-fringed cays that beckon the weary sailor to step ashore for a brief respite. With more than 700 to visit, the best and only way to reach many of the isles is by ship. And with such pleasures as diving and snorkeling of prime quality here, it would be a shame not to get off the islands for some exploration. Boat rentals are scattered through the islands, making it easy to procure your own craft for a seafaring adventure (most also offer crews for the sailing-challenged).
