Destination: Vietnam
Vietnam is a country on the move. The introduction of economic reforms -- known as --more than 10 years ago acted as a catalyst, releasing the energies of the nation left behind after decades of war and isolation. Now wherever you travel in Vietnam -- in the towns, the cities, and the countryside -- you will see people on the go.
From the rows of (noodle soup) stalls lining the sidewalks to the numerous vendors selling postcards to the huge neon signs advertising Western chic, it is apparent that this drive to make it in this new era cuts across social boundaries. Billboards hawk everything from Lifebuoy soap to Heineken beer to the newest luxury apartments, and they tower above streets jammed with motorbikes, bicycles, and more and more cars.
Now that the Soviets have departed, what becomes evident is the Vietnamese people's amazing resilience after so many thousands of years of conflict. From each of their foreign rulers they have taken what appealed to them and melded the most dissonant elements of foreign cultures into a way of life uniquely their own. When you visit Vietnam you can't help but marvel at the Vietnamese people's endurance. Waiflike, silk-clad women bear yokes hung with baskets of rice weighing twice their own weight. Or they build roads, protected only by a conical hat and a perfectly white handkerchief tied over nose and mouth. You also can't help but admire their panache: don't be surprised to encounter a pair of bareheaded men careening on a motorbike through city traffic at the height of a midday downpour, the driver tooting his horn with a soggy cigarette in his mouth, his companion, arms outstretched, balancing a large pane of glass on his knees. That mixture of practicality and bravado is in some ways the essence of Vietnam, and it is what's taking the country into the future.
?Architecture
Vietnamese architecture is as eclectic as its culture. A host of invading and vanquished civilizations -- the Cham, the Chinese, the French, the Americans, and the Russians -- have left their marks on the nation in a hodgepodge of contrasting styles.
Most temples and pagodas around the country reflect the Chinese influence on Vietnamese culture. But because the Vietnamese mainly built using wood, many ancient pagodas and temples "still standing" have actually been rebuilt, often many times. The layout and foundations of the Temple of Literature in Hanoi, for example, may be 900 years old, but many of the wooden structures of the pagoda and entrance gate are renovations. In Hue, the citadel surrounding the impressive Imperial City, although modeled on its Chinese counterpart, the Forbidden City in Beijing, is actually relatively modern -- it was constructed in the early 19th century by French architect Olivier de Puymanel. Sadly, much of this exquisite palace was destroyed during the 1968 Tet Offensive. Hue also has an incredible collection of tombs -- vast and beautiful temples to emperors, constructed in an array of architectural styles reflecting the wealth of Vietnam's royal families. Some structures, such as the 10th-century capital of Hoa Lu, southeast of Hanoi, have been around for centuries.
Art
Whether you're a seasoned collector or just like pretty pictures, you can appreciate the explosion of Vietnamese art splashed onto canvases throughout the country. Much of the work is derivative (copies of French masters, for instance) or clich?d, but some is truly unique and impressive. A handful of painters, including members of the loosely knit but hiply and cleverly named "Gang of Five" (Ha Tri Hieu, Hong Viet Dung, Dang Xuan Hoa, Pham Quang Vinh, and Tran Luong), are treated as conquering heroes by expatriates, collectors, and international artists. The undisputed art capital is Hanoi, where dozens of galleries line their walls with the latest by Vietnam's rising stars. An afternoon meandering through the galleries is a must. Lacquerware (a Chinese creation, which the Vietnamese have embraced as their own) and stone and wood sculptures are for sale everywhere. Many pieces are painstaking replicas of ancient figures or statues, whereas others are chintzy knockoffs. A trained eye will easily distinguish the trash from the treasure. And if you're in the country to make major art purchases, it is crucial you work with a respected dealer; fakes of the more famous artists are sprouting like weeds.
Beaches
Unlike Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries, Vietnam's beach culture is still largely undeveloped. The country's endless stretch of pristine coast is still a working shoreline, home to thousands of fishing families who row daily into the surf in tiny, oval-shape boats woven from reed and rattan. Some towns along the coast, however, are beginning to be developed to accommodate the influx of tourists. Nha Trang is home to the Thai-style Ana Mandara resort, and China Beach, near Danang, has the Furama Resort, an international hotel opened in 1997. Other new resorts are opening in Phan Thiet and Vung Tau.
DiningAlthough it may not look it at first glance, Vietnam is a nation obsessed with its culinary traditions. Rule 1: Vietnamese food is not "Chinese food without the spices." Sophisticated cuisine, distinct from what is north of its border, has evolved in Vietnam over the last few thousand years. Soy sauce is not as common in Vietnam as in China, for instance; instead, the nearly universal seasoning of choice in the country is -- inadequately translated as fish sauce -- a clear amber liquid pressed out of large barrels of anchovies and salt. This exquisitely complex condiment submerges itself in the flavors of other ingredients -- it's truly a remarkable concoction. Don't be put off by the smell of this potent liquid; skeptical foreigners have been known to become converts after a couple of experiences. But do take care not to overdo it, as a little bit goes a long way.
