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Forties Fashion: From Siren Suits to the New Look [Hardcover]

Jonathan Walford (Author)
4.8 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (6 customer reviews)

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Book Description

November 27, 2008

"A fascinating narrative… Great stories, remarkable acts of patriotism…mark the indomitable spirit of humanity."—Booklist

Here is a definitive look at fashion in the 1940s—from French style under the Occupation and the “make do and mend” approach to wartime clothing shortages through the development of faux fabrics, the rise of American fashion houses, and the New Look of the post- war period.

The illustrations reveal the wide range of fashions and styles from the 1940s in North America, Europe, Australasia, and Japan. The lively text by fashion specialist Jonathan Walford details how fashion was considered not a frivolity but an aesthetic expression of circumstances in the 1940s. While Fascist states tried to create “national” styles before the war began, by 1940 the pursuit of beauty was promoted on both sides of the conflict as a patriotic duty. From prewar to postwar, we see attitudes emerge from period advertisements, images of real clothes, and firsthand accounts in contemporary publications. The result is a celebration of everything from practical and smart-looking attire for air raids (hooded capes with large pockets and siren suits) to street fashion and the creation of Christian Dior’s “New Look” collection in 1947. 196 color and 54 black-and-white illustrations

Frequently Bought Together

Customers buy this book with Everyday Fashions of the Forties As Pictured in Sears Catalogs (Dover Fashion and Costumes) $10.17

Forties Fashion: From Siren Suits to the New Look + Everyday Fashions of the Forties As Pictured in Sears Catalogs (Dover Fashion and Costumes)


Editorial Reviews

From Booklist

What’s past can be present: in this worldwide perspective on pre–, during, and post–World War II fashions, curator Walford provides a fascinating narrative—all populated by four-color and black-and-white illustrations, photographs, and ads—on what women could and did wear some 60 to 70 years ago. Every nation participates; the infamous 1933 German boycott of Jewish businesses (retail, in particular) begins the lengthy story. Parisians’ refusal to cede the title of world couturier leads to the real postwar charge of collaboration against such brand-name luminaries as Jacques Fath and Marcel Boussac. American ingenuity with limited resources and materials results in California casual design—and a country intent on winning the war with whatever was needed. It’s also an era that marks the ascension of trousers for women, “fake” textiles such as rayon and celluloid, and the tremendous generosity of Americans to other war-besieged lands (a little-known fact is that First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt sent previously worn bridal gowns and veils to British servicewomen to use during their weddings). Great stories, remarkable acts of patriotism—yes, even in female fashion—mark the indomitable spirit of humanity. --Barbara Jacobs

Review

Shows how fashion gave form to the anxieties and aspirations of the times. . . . Engrossing. (Fiberarts )

Flipping through this book will provide endless hours of entertainment for swing dancers, retro-designers, and lovers of fashion history. (StyleList.com )

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 208 pages
  • Publisher: Thames & Hudson (November 27, 2008)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0500514291
  • ISBN-13: 978-0500514290
  • Product Dimensions: 10 x 9.3 x 1.2 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 2.5 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.8 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (6 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #775,204 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

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Average Customer Review
4.8 out of 5 stars (6 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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19 of 19 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Forties Fashion, March 18, 2009
By 
This review is from: Forties Fashion: From Siren Suits to the New Look (Hardcover)
I wear late 30s and early 40s clothing 7 days a week, and have been so sorry till now not to have a modern, extenstive text on the subject. This amazing volume is a fantastic addition to my library of period magazines and department store catalogues as it fleshes out the story brilliantly and has given me a much greater sense of the ramifications of war and rationing on the industry not just in America but in Germany, France, and England. Daywear and accessories are included too...advertisiments, photos. I highly recommend this book, which is terrific means for better understanding this fascinating period's fashions.
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25 of 30 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Forties Fashion - Jonathan Walford - A Reveiw, December 4, 2008
By 
N. D. Meikle (Durham, England) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   
This review is from: Forties Fashion: From Siren Suits to the New Look (Hardcover)
While not being a particular fan of lots of clothes being `displayed' via the medium of the mannequin - no matter the period appropriateness of such - the broad use of mannequins in this book works particularly well. While viewing the contemporary fashion scene in the likes of Britain and America during WWII in publications of this nature is nothing new, the research that has gone into material for the book has certainly gone a great deal further than that of the `extra mile'. I particularly like the perspectives taken from Germany, Italy, Austria, Czechoslovakia, Canada and even New Zealand, Australia and Japan. The even today revelation that Paris `ignored the war', and to a certain extent continued to move forward fashion's representational mode, is surprising in itself. But perhaps, the actual meaning of this is given little meaning - in terms of what physical clothing of the time looked like - in hitherto publications of this nature, in this book it is well-exampled.

Given the part title of the book, and putting aside arguments as to whether what Christian Dior established with his `New Look' was a good or bad thing for women, the chapter dedicated to the post-war years is certainly not simply `a trotting-out' of the same tired old images heavily featured in other publications. As has been achieved throughout the book, fashion representation, and therefore to a large extent, women's self-defined representation of themselves at the time, is given a broader slant.

A number of the material in the book comes immediately before the 1940s, emphasising the relevancies of the 1930s - and what had gone before - to what was going on in fashion - and within the world as a whole in the 1940s itself. As you would expect, and is obviously furthermore befitting, given the momentous nature of WWII, the period features heavily in this publication. Again, international aspects of wartime fashion - and how this was represented in print media of the time are particularly interesting - emphasising the international nature of the research that has gone in to the book.

In essence, the goal of the book - to show women's fashion of the 1940s period from international perspectives - has been particularly well rationalised and executed in the drawing together of images and text that make this book an essential purchase to anyone interested in what fashions of the 1940s period were actually like. Rather than, for example merely being another gathering of relative glamour and well-to-do people's clothing taken from publications such as international versions of Vogue magazine. Perhaps the only criticism of the book would be the sparse representation given to men's clothing. Given what Anne Hollander suggests as a need to acknowledge developments to both men's and women's clothing, to more accurately understand either - the momentous changes happening to women's social position throughout most of `the developed world' in the first-half of the twentieth century naturally befits that fashion, image and meaning is given the rightful position as a representation of women's self-expression through clothing.
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9 of 9 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars vintage clothing, November 4, 2010
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This review is from: Forties Fashion: From Siren Suits to the New Look (Hardcover)
This is absolutely the best book I have found on vintage fashions. I wear and collect vintage clothing. I am always looking for books that have beautiful color pictures of the actual article of clothing instead of drawings. Drawings do not show how an item hangs on a real body. This book also took the displays to the next level by adding appropriate accessories. Forties fashion is my weakness but I do love and wear 1920 thru 1960's clothing and am hopeful there will be other books like this one with such outstanding photography and design. If anyone has any suggestion please respond.
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