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The Fourth Star: Dispatches from Inside Daniel Boulud's Celebrated New York Restaurant
 
 
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The Fourth Star: Dispatches from Inside Daniel Boulud's Celebrated New York Restaurant [Paperback]

Leslie Brenner (Author)
3.9 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (21 customer reviews)

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Book Description

May 27, 2003
Within every fine restaurant there exist two worlds: the elegant, hushed environment of the dining room and the chaotic, explosive, high-
tension scene behind the swinging kitchen doors. The ability to create dishes that are utterly sublime and turn them out at breakneck pace while simultaneously juggling kitchen crises, coddling demanding patrons, and managing overworked staff is what defines a four-star chef.

In The Fourth Star, award-winning author Leslie Brenner goes inside those swinging doors to explore the realities behind Daniel, capturing the dramas that arise in the insular, high-pressure milieu of a world-class kitchen. New York’s food establishment had been stunned when Daniel Boulud’s newly opened flagship restaurant was awarded only three stars from the New York Times. From that moment on, it became Boulud’s unspoken mission to regain the four-star rating that he’d previously garnered during his tenure at Le Cirque and then at his own first restaurant. That he was striving to do all this on an unprecedented scale, turning out nearly four hundred meals in a few short hours of service—meals that had to be absolutely perfect every time—made this goal all the more ambitious.

Brenner paints a portrait of a remarkable French chef at a pivotal moment of his career, as Boulud relentlessly drives his staff to the peak of excellence.

The Fourth Star provides full access to every aspect of Daniel, investigating everything from the maître d’s table assignment policies to the internecine politics of advancing up the culinary ladder.

Filled with delectable, undercover details and moving personal drama, Brenner’s chronicle is an addictive read about the inner workings of a super-lative restaurant. The Fourth Star is destined to satisfy restaurant lovers, professional cooks, and armchair chefs alike.

Frequently Bought Together

Customers buy this book with Daniel Boulud's Cafe Boulud Cookbook: French-American Recipes for the Home Cook $26.31

The Fourth Star: Dispatches from Inside Daniel Boulud's Celebrated New York Restaurant + Daniel Boulud's Cafe Boulud Cookbook: French-American Recipes for the Home Cook


Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

Daniel Boulud's Manhattan restaurant, Daniel, is considered one of the nation's top dining spots. But in 1999, New York Times restaurant reviewer William Grimes demoted Daniel from its lofty four-star status to a merely "excellent" three stars. Leslie Brenner's The Fourth Star recounts her self-assigned year behind the scenes at Daniel, at the end of which Grimes returned the coveted star. Her fascinating fly-on-the-wall narrative takes readers to the restaurant's two arenas: the front of the house, a world of demanding patrons and equally exacting staff, who try to accommodate guests while ensuring the smooth coordination of operations; and the world behind the swinging doors, a roiling place in which tension is both staved off and cultivated by barking chefs--including Boulud--but which nonetheless (or consequently) produces world-class food.

Brenner takes readers everywhere: to the reservations desk and its crew's VIP-seating machinations; to staff meetings; to a wine-buying session; to a visit from President Clinton (who is allergic, it's noted, to chocolate); and, primarily, to the kitchen, where "the work is really hard and someone else takes all the credit" and burnout means that cooks, most in their 20s, stay an average of a year. This is all great stuff, and Brenner is particularly, almost amazingly, good at getting it all down to the last crème brûlée. Unfortunately, the book is compromised by the author's near-sycophantic regard for Boulud (his "genius is readily apparent," is a typical observation) and the restaurant, whose "wondrousness" is presented as a given. Thus the narrative, which is also (perhaps unavoidably) repetitive, often feels like an infomercial. Hanging her tale on the wish for the fourth star also plays Brenner false, as the issue is largely unmentioned or otherwise expressed by the cast of characters, leading Brenner to interject leading comments ("Could [Boulud] have missed his moment in the eyes of the critic whose judgment matters most?") that only salute the lack of narrative tension. These things said, the book is still a must-read for anyone interested in the workings of a top-drawer restaurant at the peak of its powers, and of the amazing hierarchical dramas, front of the house and back, that make it what it is. --Arthur Boehm --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

From Booklist

Reporter Brenner spent a year in New York's elegant restaurant Daniel as its staff labored together to earn a coveted fourth star from the New York Times' powerful restaurant critic. Brenner's microscopic account of the dining room staff, the chefs, and the restaurant's patrons makes fascinating reading for foodies, who will virtually drool over dinner items such as ravioli stuffed with artichokes and arugula or risotto gazpacho. Brenner's vivid descriptive powers come to the fore to relate the professional and personal successes and setbacks of many of the kitchen staff, from the brilliant, charismatic chef-owner, Daniel Boulud, to the line cooks and even the oft-ignored busboys. In each aspect of this eating establishment, detail is everything. Brenner's account of how the restaurant takes (and refuses) reservations offers many an object lesson for anyone striving to do public service right. Consummately professional reservationists even smile as they talk on the telephone because they believe that a smile can be "heard" across the phone lines. Mark Knoblauch
Copyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 314 pages
  • Publisher: Clarkson Potter (May 27, 2003)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 1400048036
  • ISBN-13: 978-1400048038
  • Product Dimensions: 5.2 x 0.7 x 8 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 8 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 3.9 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (21 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #442,026 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

21 Reviews
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4 star:
 (3)
3 star:
 (3)
2 star:
 (2)
1 star:
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Average Customer Review
3.9 out of 5 stars (21 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

11 of 12 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Our Pate, which Art on Table, August 19, 2003
By 
This is a book by and for foodies. As such it is filled with a lingo that may require some translation for the uninitiated. Even so, it is both an intriguing tale (how he got the fourth star) even as it contains some of the best behind-the-scenes restaurant action ever written.

One grasps the passion, the obsession, the degree to which the performers immerse themselves in every aspect of food from both the "business" end (running a restaurant) and the "artistic" end (selecting, preparing, cooking). Just reading through one of those hectic nights is exhausting but the author seems to have been in the pits with the major players. The outtake vignettes such as the episode on making reservations or on the quirky but faithful customers are sheer joy.

And who has not imagined such a dinner as the one that finally concluded the book. Bravo for such an effort as this one!

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16 of 19 people found the following review helpful:
3.0 out of 5 stars Interesting topic, content a bit low, July 24, 2002
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The premise of this book is a year in the life of a great restaurant at a time when the pressure is on to get a fourth star from the NYT food critic. Sounds pretty good, huh? Well, it really isn't.

Good things can be found here; for example culinary nuggets scattered through the book about how to cook bacon, prepare citrus zest etc are interesting and useful. A glimpse at the business side of the restaurant is novel but underdeveloped.

My major criticisms are three...I didn't get to know Daniel Boulud at all. Many opportunities to flesh him out were missed...there are a zillion frequently seen people in the kitchen, but most are so undeveloped that I couldn't keep 'em straight....There is far too much random kitchen chatter reproduced. It is mostly a distraction and is thoroughly boring. "Fire 35...merde! zut alors! putain!"

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13 of 15 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Five Stars for The Fourth Star, July 5, 2002
By 
Julie P. (Seattle, WA USA) - See all my reviews
I loved this book--and I'm not even a "foodie!" The Fourth Star reads like a well-crafted novel, with great characters, intricate relationships, and delicious tidbits about who gets what table, about the frenzied goings-on behind the kitchen door, and about what it's like when the President of the United States shows up at your restaurant for a meal. It's full of information I never realized I wantd to know, such as where the staff buys their stylish but extra-comfortable shoes, what the restaurant mark-up is on a bottle of water, how the timing works so that all the entrees arrive at the table at the same time, and just what goes into making a sublime dish. It's a fascinating read. I'd recommend this book to anyone.
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First Sentence:
THIS BOOK CHRONICLES a year behind the scenes at the New York City restaurant Daniel. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
crab gelée, two risotto, prep kitchen, fish station, soup station, hot apps, reservation sheet, meat station, one risotto, hot foie gras, banquet kitchen, pastry window, induction range, bus pan, executive pastry chef, pastry kitchen, one veal, one tuna, cheese cart, tomato confit, pickup area, lunch service, line cooks, hanger steak, tip pool
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
New York, Alex Lee, Daniel Boulud, Michael Lawrence, Café Boulud, Brett Traussi, Georgette Farkas, Bruno Jamais, Frédéric Côte, Alain Ducasse, Brad Thompson, Bernard Vrod, Hilary Tolman, Thomas Haas, William Grimes, United States, Neil Gallagher, Secret Service, Anthony Francis, French David, Johnny Iuzzini, Cyrille Allannic, Dinex Group, Paul Bocuse, Essex House
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Becoming a Chef by Andrew Dornenburg
 


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