Customer Reviews

Franklin International 1415 Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue, 32-Ounce Bottle

5 star:		(7)
4 star:		(4)
3 star:		(0)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

I've found in working with Titebond III that it's very aggressive in tack. Even positioning unclamped workpieces will be a problem half a minute later if you have to adjust things. It self-shims a bit so clamps are a must. With tight-fitting joinery you get one chance to knock glued parts together.

From its MSDS, Titebond III is a PVA polymer glue with 2-(2-butoxyethoxy)ethanol as a solvent/carrier, the latter being a Listed hazardous substance. As a solvent it passes readily through the skin, so despite what the brochure says, wearing gloves would definitely be prudent. I can attest that the drying glue leaves hands a wreck.

The solvent is toxic to fish, so cleanup where rinsings can reach waterways would be poor eco-stewardship. And it is mildly inflammable, so no open flames!

The PVA portion is a skin, eye, and lung irritant and should not be inhaled as sanding dust. Use full respiratory protection as you would with any glued workpieces.

For many years I have been using Titebond II almost exclusively, and to great result, so I thought that Titebond III would have to be pretty outstanding for me to switch. On the first project that I used it on, I was very impressed. In the course of building an arts and crafts inspired coffee table, I needed to glue up six relatively long boards into a panel (the table top). I appreciated two things right away with this glue. First, the long open time meant that I was able to work at a comfortable pace without as much hurrying and stress as that sort of operation usually induces. Second, I appreciated that this glue dries to a light brown color, which blended in well with the general color of my q/s white oak.

Of course, only having used it for building indoor furniture, I cannot attest to the waterproof nature of this glue, but with all other things - open time, bond strength, color, etc. - I am sold. Titebond III is a winner in my book.

This glue has some very good qualities: a long open time, excellent adhesion, nearly waterproof (not for use under the waterline of a boat), and low viscosity. I don't, however, like the darker color for some applications, especially light colored woods like maple, ash or bamboo.

I used this glue when making my kitchen cabinets. It dries relatively quickly so you can remove clamps and move on to the next assembly. Very strong bond - I made a mistake and wound up breaking the wood when I tried to separate the pieces. The applicator cap is fair - I recommend some glue brushes from Rockler for ensuring good coverage. I definitely recommend this product.

This glue is easy to use, and it's really strong. The wood will fail before the glue. I've used it on book shelves, aquarium stands, and outdoor furniture.

Titebond III is one of several iterations of Titebond glue. This glue has a dark color, as such, turns dark brown when cured and is good for working with hardwoods such as maple and oak. However, tackiness leaves something to be desired. I found this glue to be runny and lacking in tack, which is needed when applying/gluing moldings in finish work. The moldings were held down with wire brads but the glue still ran out. I do not recommend Titebond III for any application requiring an immediate tack; Elmer's dark wood glue or regular wood glue is better for this purpose. However for normal glue-up purposes and joinery using clamps it is a fine glue with no issues. Just remember it may run/flow more out of crevices than other glues and have a wet sponge and some paper towels on hand to clean up any excess runoff. The lack of tackiness is not an issue when gluing up parts overnight where the items will be in clamps for at least 24 hours.

I bought tightbond 3 for bonding a number of miter cut joints - I found it was thinner than preferred (2 or 1 version) but there was a surprising use I had not considered before - sometimes wood will split even after you pre drill and countersink for a screw and you find these little micro cracks that form after the drilling and screw head make the wood split along its natural grain lines.

What I eneded up using tightbond 3 for was fixing those micro cracks - it's thin enough that I can pour it into a crack and it will wick itself in without much stuffing with a brush. Afterwards I put a clamp each way around the wood (top/bottom, left-right) and when it sets up the cracks are gone, invisible, and I can drill and run self tapping wood screws without fear of any more cracks forming after it sets up.

It still works great with precision cut joints and lots of clamps but right out of the bottle things will slide a bit due to the low viscosity of TB 3

I love this glue - I now can keep one type for virtually everything. The poly glues have not lived up to their billing, in my opinion.

The color is also better, invisible glue lines.

I had planned on installing a wooden bridge on a ukulele and had come across an article online on ukulele bridge installation where the ukulele builder had mentioned using Titebond Wood Glue for the bridge installation and had clamped down the bridge on a ukulele for only 25 minutes (that's 5 minutes less than recommended by Titebond on their own label for this product). After I had read this particular article, I then decided to clamp the bridge down on my own ukulele after applying Titebond III Wood Glue. So, I waited about 30 minutes and then removed the clamps to clean the excess glue from around the bridge with a clean damp cloth as stated on the Titebond label. But after an additional 45 minutes without the clamps I found some more information on Titebond's website under their FAQ's. In it, Titebond stated that for "unstressed joints" clamping time could be administered for 30 to 45 minutes. However, for "stressed joints" Titebond recommended that clamping time be administered for 24 hours PLUS waiting an additional 24 hours before stressing the new joint itself. All bridges on an acoustic stringed instrument should be viewed as a "stressed joint" due to the strings on these instruments placing a considerable amount of stress/pressure on a bridge and body of an acoustic stringed instrument.

So, if you're planning on using Titebond Wood Glue for similar musical instrument projects, please make sure to clamp down stressed objects such as bridges or necks for at least 24 hours and not just 30 minutes as recommended on Titebond Wood Glue Labels. And please don't blame the glue manufacturer for a mistake made on your own part. Titebond III Wood Glue really works, If you use it the correct way!

Great for using with exterior woods. The bonding holds up and I recommend this one as opposed to regular glue.