Customer Reviews

Freud LM72R010 10-Inch 24 Tooth FTG Ripping Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating

5 star:		(10)
4 star:		(3)
3 star:		(0)
2 star:		(1)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

This is an awesome blade as far as cutting performance goes. It is very sharp and cuts very well. The teflon coating really works to alleviate binding and helps it to run cooler. The teeth are nice and beefy for resharpening. The only thing I don't like is that the carbide is either ground too sharp or it's too brittle. I don't really know. What I do know is that I keep finding chips on the teeth when I know for a fact no foriegn material has been passed through. Nails, staples etc. This has happened with several Freud blades in my unisaw. I recommend the Forrest woodworker 2 for ripping. They don't have the teflon coating but they seem to hold up better over the long haul.

A lot of the projects I build require edge gluing boards to make wider panels. In the past my normal technique would be to rip the boards to a uniform width and the run them through the jointer to get a good enough edge for a nearly invisible glue line.

This blade is advertised to make glue line rip cuts and it does just that. I'm able to make rip cuts in thick hardwood that require no further preparation prior to glue up. That includes some 13/16 maple that I just used for a dovetailed blanket chest. That makes for a nice time saver.

Bottom line; If you do a lot of ripping, this blade is definitely worth the investment.

We are using this blade in a 10" portable table saw. It is super-quiet and leaves a nice, clean edge. It's amazing how much better a saw can perform with a good blade in it. The motor doesn't bog down even when cutting thicker stock, and the blade powers right through the material. Definitely not a thin-kerf blade.

This is my second rip blade - its hard to find places to sharpen blades around here, and it takes a while, so I needed a back up.

I added the Freud blade stabilizers, and was able to rip inch and 3/4 ash with no blade marks whatsoever (on a delta contractors saw with link belt and zero clearance insert). I could feed it as fast as I was comfortable.

I can't imagine what paying an extra $[money] for a Forrest would gain me (not having to change blades, I guess).

I bought this blade to rip white oak and it cut very well at first. After a couple hundred feet it slowed down so I took it to my sharpener and he couldn't sharpen it because of all the chipped teeth!! None of the teeth were missing, but al of them had chunks of carbide broken out. Not very impressed.....

This blade performed admireably cutting through 1.25" hard maple gym floor that I am trying to recycle. It really moved a lot of wood and didn't even seem to dull to quickly when we got into the finish and grime on the edges. However when it met a nail it slowed down our feed rate. Upon taking the blade off and having it sharpened we lost one tooth and dulled the rest. Not the blades fault. Operator error and I have since bought another of the same blade to add to the arsenal and have been very pleased with it's performance.

I generally use 3/4 to 1" oak for my projects on a Jet 3hp saw. You can push boards through this blade as fast as you want (just don't get hurt doing it). Leaves a very good, smooth cut.

I rarely change the blades in my table saw and leave the 60 tooth plywood blade in, however, when I have to rip alot of lumber this is my blade. It provides a nice smooth cut at a nice pace. I have never had a tooth chip or miss carbide as some have mentioned.

The sole purpous of this blade for me is when cutting joints on the TS. It has flat square teeth so I get a flat bottom on my joints, ie Tenon sides, lap joints....

Unless you are doing a lot of ripping, or re-sawing, a ripping blade is not necessary. General purpose blades do the job. I find that Forrest blades are the best. They give the smoothest cut with no splintering except the following edge. I would not return blades to Forrest for shipping. The service is good, but shipping costs raise the price to almost that of a new blade. Try your local woodworking shop. My Woodcraft sharpened the blade as good as the factory at half the cost.