Customer Reviews

Freud SC-001 3-1/2-Inch Blade Stabilizer with 5/8-Inch Arbor for 7-Inch Saws or Larger

5 star:		(8)
4 star:		(6)
3 star:		(6)
2 star:		(1)
1 star:		(4)

 

 

When I first got my Freud stabilizers I used them on both sides of my blade, and my cuts improved. Then I read an article by the owner of a prominent U.S. saw blade manufacturing firm. In this article, the author recommends using a stabilizer on only the outside of your blade (the side with the nut). I made this change, and my cuts improved even more. I highly recommend the Freud stabilizer. It is very solid, and very nicely machined. It has more mass than other stabilizers on the market. I suspect that this helps increase both the flywheel effect and the gyroscopic effect over the thinner, lighter stabilizers. Just be sure to get rid of all sawdust on your saw arbor, your blade, and the stabilizers -- or stabilizer if you use only one -- before mounting your blade. This will help ensure the least possible run-out and the smoothest cuts. Experiment a little like I did to find the best number of stabilizers to use with each blade, but do use a stabilizer. You will get less vibration, and therefore smoother cuts.

I ordered this stabilizer to mount on my DeWalt dw746 tablesaw. I had been using a DeWalt 5" stabilizer plate with a Forrest WWII thin kerf blade. At 5" in diameter, the DeWalt stabilizer effectively limited my depth of cut to about 2.5". After trying out the Freud 3.5" stabilizer, I can honestly say that I didn't lose any noticeable performance, and I gained enough blade clearance to once again rip/crosscut 3" stock.

As an added bonus for the price, this product comes as a pair of stabilizers! I only mounted one stabilizer on my saw (on the nut side of the blade), and was able to mount the other to my radial arm saw and greatly improve its cuts as well.

I highly recommend this set of stabilizers as a good product at a great price.

I wouldn't bother with these unless you're doing a lot of very precise cutting or you're really noise sensitive. These arrived later than the thin-kerft blade I ordered them for, so I've had several days without and then with them, for comparison. There was a slight change in the sound (difficult to say if it was quieter or just pitched differently) and a marginal change in the way cuts felt. But nothing to write home about, and no perceptible difference in cut quality.

Also, just for info, I doubt these will fit most chop or compound miter saws. They're much thicker than the Forrest stabilizer, and there are two of them; they take up about a 1/2" of arbor length (not counting the blade and your fittings.)

I have been using these for a year now and have found that they really do quiet my saw down. The only thing to realize is that they really do cut down on the height of the blade. This is a problem sometimes. You may need two zero clearance inserts for your blade one with the stablizers and a different insert for using the blade without them so that you can get the height back. Bit of a hassle but it does not happen often for me.

I have a Craftsman tablesaw. I've had problems with my blades flaring out, especially in thin stock, and giving me a wavy cut. I was considering a new saw...when my machinist friend told me to try these. What a difference!...

these serve well to make more rigid thin-kerfed blades. Regarding the Bosch 4000 (mentioned earlier in a scathing review), the saw passes the nickel test without blade stabilizers. However, adding these fine-tunes the saw's performance, does not alter the sound; and, most surprisingly, preserves the accuracy of the measuring tape. Recommended if you are ripping hardwoods.

I purchased this set because I noticed a little bit of wobble in my blade as I shut down the machine even though the blade is tight against the arbor. I had some doubt as to how much effect stabilizer would have on the blades performance. My package noted that these were two sets. I gave the other one to a woodworking buddy. I am completely satisfied and impressed with this stabilizer. It completely eliminated the blade wobble at start up and shut down of my saw. I had one thing that abolutely puzzled me. I installed the stabilizer on the outside of the blade on my right tilt saw. There should have been no change in the blade placement. My zero clearance insert would not go over the blade. It rubbed probably a 1/64th of an inch or so. I lowered the blade all the way down, put in the insert and powered up my saw. I then raised the blade. It cut the expected 1/64th of an inch or so and I let it run a minute to clear out the insert. I was amazed at how well the stabilizer worked. No more wobble. I own a Delta contractor saw with cast iron extensions and tons of add ons. I am completely sold on this product. I am certain that my old arbor flange was slightly warped, although I never noticed it. I highly recommend this product and it is so inexpensive.

I was not able to use it with my Makita 2703 table saw; the arbor was to short for the Blade Stabilizer plus a blade. The total thickness of the two Stabilizer disks is 15/32 inches.

According to Freud support you must use both disks, one each side of the blade.

I gave it 3 stars because the disks looked solid, but I don't have a clue how well they do their job. Wrote the review so others would know about the thickness issue.

This product made a big difference when working with a benchtop saw. Because these saws have a lot of vibration and are loud I noticed the difference in noise reduction as well as smoother cuts. You do have to keep in mind that the added weight can place added stress on the motor which is a concern in underpowered saws. Also, if you use both at the same time it moves the blade towards the right which might be a problem if you already have a sliding crosscut table or an already cut zero clearance insert. I would recommend only using one on the right.

I brought this because a friend suggested it and it ...[wasn't expensive]. I have to admit that I was not convinced until I used it. I use a Freud 80 tooth 10" blade that is the best blade I've found and I didn't really think there was a way to improve my cuts more than by owning the best blade I could find. I was so wrong. The difference was immediately seen and rather amazing, especially for something so [inexpensive]. (I just can't seem to be able to get over the fact that for about ...[a less expensive price] I improved my cuts by at least 100%.)

My first clue that something was different was before making my first cut. I placed my homemade panel cutting jig on my table and the blade was about an 1/8" away from the jig where as before it was so close that I could hear the blade brush the jig as I ran it past. The first cross cut was so great that I had to rip a piece of scrap to see how it would turn out. It looked like I had just ran it through my jointer.

Here is the bottom line. It is ...[not expensive] and it works amazingly well, so basically if you don't have one get one.