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GE WB2X9998 Flat Oven Ignitor

by GE
| 7 answered questions

List Price: $51.09
Price: $23.65 & FREE Shipping on orders over $35. Details
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In Stock.
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1
Oven Ignitor
  • Genuine General Electric factory part
  • Dual-bracket gas oven ignitor
  • Features 18-inch leads
  • Operates on 3.2-3.6 amps
  • Backed by one-year warranty
13 new from $21.49
$23.65 & FREE Shipping on orders over $35. Details In Stock. Sold by Free_Shipping_LLC and Fulfilled by Amazon. Gift-wrap available.

Frequently Bought Together

GE WB2X9998 Flat Oven Ignitor + Gas Range Oven Igniter for WB2X9154, WB13K3, WB13K4, 4342528, SGR403 + Replacement Flat Oven Ignitor Replaces: 5303935066, 814269, WB2X9998, WB13K21
Price for all three: $60.83

These items are shipped from and sold by different sellers.

Buy the selected items together


Product Description

Package Quantity: 1 | Size: Oven Ignitor

Product Description

This gas oven ignitor (bake ignitor) will replace most rectangular ignitors including the 12400035 Maytag ignitor and the GR412 Gemline number.

From the Manufacturer

General Electric WB2X9998 Flat Oven Ignitor is common to gas ranges and ovens made by GE and other brands. This is a genuine GE factory part and comes with GE's 1 year warranty.

Product Details

Package Quantity: 1 | Size: Oven Ignitor
  • Product Dimensions: 6 x 6 x 6 inches ; 4.8 ounces
  • Shipping Weight: 4.8 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Shipping: Currently, item can be shipped only within the U.S. and to APO/FPO addresses. For APO/FPO shipments, please check with the manufacturer regarding warranty and support issues.
  • ASIN: B003BIGDEU
  • Item model number: WB2X9998
  • Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (175 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #34,793 in Home Improvement (See Top 100 in Home Improvement)
  • Manufacturer’s warranty can be requested from customer service. Click here to make a request to customer service.


Customer Questions & Answers

Customer Reviews

Much cheaper than anything I found locally.
Dayton Landlord
I spliced the new wires onto the old plug with the included ceramic wire nuts and it worked like a charm.
Richard E. Lothridge
Received on time, installation very easy with all necessary parts.
Bigsmallies

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

37 of 37 people found the following review helpful By T. Ng on January 18, 2011
Size Name: Oven IgnitorItem Package Quantity: 1 Verified Purchase
When my GE oven would not turn on this past Sunday night, I needed a quick replacement. I knew nothing about ovens, but I dreaded calling for a technician. A little internet research showed that my ignitor was likely the culprit. After identifying my original ignitor as a Norton 501A, I found this product on Amazon. As others have mentioned, this is an genuine Norton 501A GE replacement part. After replacing the ignitor, the oven worked perfectly and the flames came on within a minute. I had everything up and working by Tuesday. It was a very simple repair and only requires a screwdriver (to unmount/mount the ignitor) and a set of pliers (to cut, strip and splice the wires). Here's a few notes for others who may have never had experience with this type of repair.

- You may notice that no gas flows and believe it's an issue with gas and not an issue with the ignitor. But the gas valve is connected in series with the ignitor. If the current through the ignitor is not sufficient, the gas valve will not turn on. This is a safety feature that prevents gas build-up without an ignition source. This means that if your ignitor does not glow or only glows dimly, the current will not be sufficient to release gas.
- You can measure the current if you have a current clamp or if you can insert an ammeter in series with your circuit. But do this only if you absolutely know what you are doing, as it requires a live current and, remember, you are working in an oven! A working ignitor will draw around 3.2 amps. If you don't have one, don't worry. Just replace the ignitor anyway as it's the most likely point of failure in many cases and is cheap to replace.
- Flat/square ignitors (like this one, with the metal rectangular cage) are generally not compatible with the round ignitors.
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8 of 8 people found the following review helpful By Chris D on December 12, 2010
Size Name: Oven IgnitorItem Package Quantity: 1 Verified Purchase
Our Maytag oven had been working erratically for a while. After you set the baking temperature it would take several minutes for the burner to light, then as long as 45 minutes to pre-heat. While the burner was on, you could hear it pulsing, (Hiss.. Hiss.. Hiss.. Hiss.. etc). After talking with a local appliance repair man, we determined the ignitor was the problem. The old ignitor still "worked", but it was not drawing enough current to keep the gas valve open. The ignitor should draw at least 3 amps to open the gas valve. Mine was drawing about 2.7 amps (measured with a clamp-type amp meter). He said the part would cost $75-80. I thought this seemed expensive. [...] wanted $45 for an OEM part. The GE ignitor seemed like it was worth a shot for $18 with shipping. All I needed was a screwdriver to remove the old ignitor and a panel, and a pair of wire strippers to cut the plug off the old ignitor and splice it to the new. Within 15 minutes I was finished and our oven works great. If you have some mechanical ability, this is a definite do-it-yourself job.

3/22/2013 Update.

Over 2 years after installing this, our oven still works great!
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful By KWillets on November 6, 2010
Size Name: Oven IgnitorItem Package Quantity: 1 Verified Purchase
I wasn't sure if this would be an exact replacement for a Maytag 12400035, but we needed 3-4 of these and the price was right. When they came in they bore a tag saying they were Norton 501A, same as the Maytag, so it's hard to go wrong with these.

The one difference is that these don't have a plug connector, just stripped wire leads. I clipped off our old unit below the plug and used the wirenuts supplied to connect the replacement to the clipped leads, keeping the plug there just in case.

Both the bake and broil ignitor that I replaced today worked perfectly the first time and started gas flow in under a minute. The only hitch I had was stripping the threads on one of the two screws holding the ignitor on the bracket. I found out it's easier to take the whole L-shaped broiler burner tube (it's held by one screw at the front), clip the old ignitor leads, then pull it all out and work on it outside the oven. The mounting screw is a 10-24, and I had to go get my own replacement (stainless for high heat, although I don't know if that's necessary).

At this price it was worth it just to replace all the ignitors at once, and the oven seems much better.
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful By Jeffrey A. Rajhel on February 15, 2010
Size Name: Oven IgnitorItem Package Quantity: 1 Verified Purchase
Cheap, quick, and easy to order, I found companies asking $80 for an ignitor with connectors needed for my stove, just purchase this and install connectors yourself, available at Home Depot, Lowes, any home store, crimp them on and you just saved yourself $60. Ignitors been working great for 1 1/2 months. Absolutely zero issues with the vendor. Thanks
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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful By Jim A on April 9, 2011
Size Name: Oven IgnitorItem Package Quantity: 1 Verified Purchase
OK, I changed this from 5 stars to one star because it burned out after about 1.5 years. The original lasted about five times as long, and the way this one deteriorated, it is clearly inferior quality. I ended up replacing the oven, since it was a low end unit, but I might still be using it, if that igniter hadn't burned out so fast. Next time I'd pay up for a real GE replacement part, not this look alike version. It's basically junk.

This is my original review which should still be helpfull for people doing this repair-- This is an aftermarket copy of the original Norton 501A igniter. While it's marketed as the original GE part, it isn't. It does work and fit exactly as the original, and in one sense it is better than getting the replacement that includes the original plug. While the directions state to leave the original plug on, and to use the ceramic wire nuts to splice the wires together after the original connection; I chose to cut the somewhat deteriorated (appeared to be discolored, cracked, and burnt) original connection off. Since there is a ton of extra wire supplied with this aftermarket part, this is relatively easy, and eliminates the much weaker, original connection. By the way, the only tricky part of this is pulling the original plug out and carefully stripping a quarter inch of the four inches available. If you have a sharp wire stripper, and you work carefully (and slowly), the whole job might take 45 min. If, on your oven there isn't enough extra wire (unlikely), or you can't find the original plug, just splice the wire and don't worry about this. There are pretty much, only two igniters used in all ovens, this square Norton style, and a round Carborundum style. It seems that this is, by far, the most common problem, and just because an igniter glows, doesn't mean that the current it allows to pass to the gas valve, is addequate to open it. Don't be fooled if you see that the igniter is still glowing. Have fun--Let the force be with you.
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