60 of 63 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars
Mass-querading as Class, February 9, 2003
By A Customer
"Clearly, people want things that make their lives the way they wish they were." That's a quote that always appeared at the front of the J. Peterman catalogue--the one that was immortalized on "Seinfeld." It's an excellent piece of marketing advice, and Ralph Lauren understood it and capitalized on it. I'm stating the obvious.
First, I'll give credit to Ralph (Lifschitz) Lauren for being so clever as to repackage the classics and build an empire based on the Great WASP way of life--the one that so many people aspire to. It was brilliant, and if I had been the one to pull it off, I would smile all the way to the bank.
Secondly, I give well-deserved credit to Michael Gross for sweeping away the pixie dust and writing about what is actually behind this purveyor of "lifestyle goods." I wouldn't say that there are a great number of surprises; rather, the story he tells confirms (in detail) what most of us already know--that the fashion industry is so much smoke and mirrors, and why would Ralph be any different? He hasn't been innovative and shocking in the way that you see styles emerge from other designers, but he chose to reinvent himself and at the same time, package it all quite nicely and ready-to-consume by the insecure masses.
Michael Gross reveals that the real money in the Lauren company is made on khakis and polo shirts and that Ralph may be out of touch with who his customer really is. That polo shirt with the pony logo shows up on the backs of so many beefy, paunchy, male members of the corportate bourgeousie (middle class strivers) as opposed to those of the old Blue Book families for whom L.L. Bean is just fine, thank you. I recall once seeing a Ralph Lauren navy blazer for women with this obtrusive gold "Ralph Lauren" crest on the chest and thinking, "You must be kidding. That's downright embarrassing."
So, why would you want to read this book?
1. There's an all-American Horatio Alger type story within these pages.
2. You'll see how one man pulled all this off, and read about the realities and the pitfalls of his journey from the Bronx to his vast stage-set estates.
3. Learn something about the rag trade and licensing. Your own closet may not look the same upon close examination.
4. Realize that "discontent is the cornerstone of our consumer culture." (Sorry, I can't remember who said that.) The need to express status runs deep, and people in social distress often consume their way into "meaning." It can be costly to be a victim.
5. Dig a little deeper into this story and see that it is truly an authentic American tale based on choreographed gentility (down to the last threadbare oriental rug). The Ralph Lauren stores are pretty, and the ambience romances the all the stuff nicely, but be aware that it's all facade--a "fop house."
In summary, this book was interesting and worth the read. I'll let Henry James have the last word here:
"You are rich if you can meet the needs of your imagination."
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11 of 12 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
terrific book, January 28, 2007
I have now read all of Michael Gross' books and each has been a pleasure - all I can ask is, "What next?" All the hallmarks of Gross' style are here, incredibly readable, covering a wide range of topics in a comfortable manner and with a sweeping sense of the history of the subject. Gross is equally at home in the technical details of the garment business, the sociocultural aspects of growing up Jewish in the Bronx and the aesthetics of high fashion photography and his tone is never shrill or polemic. I would have liked to have known more about Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein but at 369 pages the book is already weighty, and I absolutely loved every page on Lauren's childhood. I could have used a bit less business writing. But this is my bias. Who knows maybe there is another Gross book about to spring upon us about Hilfiger, whom Lauren repeatedly mispronounced Hilfinger early on, a perfect example of Gross' eye for the exquisite detail. Gross is a master at his trade and this book is a gem.
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7 of 8 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars
Well Worth Reading, May 2, 2004
By A Customer
This review is from: Genuine Authentic: The Real Life of Ralph Lauren (Paperback)
I agree with other reviewers who complained that there were not enough pictures and that one could hardly avoid getting confused about all of the different names in Gross's book. It probably is not Gross's fault but to write about Lauren without plentiful photographs is a disservice to any reader. Gotta give it to Gross though. His report is thorough. He deserves 4 stars. His publisher deserves 2 stars.
The book is well worth reading for the education it gives the reader about the clothing business and "designer" labels as well as the telling insights into RL himself. In short, RL has cashed in on the preppy WASP persona but, to this day, doesn't really "get it" himself. Upon being questioned about art in his "WASP" designed house, he cannot identify artists on his wall and brags that he just goes by "feel." Clearly, he doesn't understand that the way of life he imitates includes education and culture, neither of which he has to this very day.
The book is also a wonderful education for the clothes buyer. You know those outlet bargains? I guess they are not, since a whole line goes straight from the factory to the outlet. Did you think that you were the only one who did not buy the $100 blouse at the department store? Looks like no one else buys much either. The money gets made from those pique shirts. Buyer beware.
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