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Glory in a Camel's Eye: Trekking Through the Moroccan Sahara
 
 
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Glory in a Camel's Eye: Trekking Through the Moroccan Sahara [Hardcover]

Jeffrey Tayler (Author)
5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)


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Book Description

June 2, 2003
Hailed by Bill Bryson and the New York Times Book Review as an emerging master of travel writing, Tayler penetrates one of the most forbidding regions on Earth. Journeying along routes little altered since the Middle Ages, he uses his linguistic and observational gifts to illuminate a venerable, enigmatic culture of nomads and mystics.
Though no stranger to privation (having journeyed across Siberia and up the Congo for his earlier books), Tayler is unprepared for the physical challenges that await him in a Sahara dessicated by eight years of unprecedented drought. He travels across a landscape of nightmares - charred earth, blinding sky, choking gales, and what is fittingly called the Valley of the Dead. The last Westerner to attempt this trek left his skeleton in the sand, and even Tayler's camels wilt in the searing wastes.
But his remarkable perseverance, as well as his fluency in classical and Moroccan Arabic, helps him find here a bracing purity. The Saharawi Bedouin among whom he journeys are ur-Arabs, untouched by the modernity or radicalism that festers elsewhere in the Arab world. By revealing their ingenuity, their wit, their unrivaled hospitality, and more, Tayler upends our notions of what is, and what is not, essentially Arab.

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Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

Inspired by his studies of North African history and well-schooled in classical Arabic, Tayler, an Atlantic contributing editor and author of two previous travel books, set out to taste for himself the traditional lifestyle of the Bedouin nomads by trekking through southern Morocco's Drƒa Valley by mule, camel and foot. Unlike most travel accounts, this book doesn't describe famous places, and cuisine is mostly memorable in its absence (e.g., the time Tayler refused to eat sand-baked bread with the density of fecal matter). Instead, it treats readers to something infinitely rarer: a glimpse of nomadic Muslims' worldview. Some proselytize from morning to evening prayer, while others commune with their beloved camels, but for all, "no matter what happened, they praised God." Would a flash flood take their lives? Would their camels starve for lack of forage? "God writes every man's ajal" (hour of death), they'd answer, fully accepting God's will. Daily ritual in the desert pulses with faith, as Tayler's companions determine dawn prayer time by distinguishing a black from a white thread and perform ritual ablutions with scorching sand instead of water. Conversation on less religious themes reveals highly nuanced tribalism, occasional snippets of Al Jazeera- sourced world news and inexplicable rumors (e.g., is Al Gore Arab? Did ancient Portuguese cut stone villages in the Atlas Mountains?). Tayler offers a camel driver's point of view of a complex society, a view that's at once unassuming, extremely informative and even entertaining. Photos and map not seen by PW.
Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information, Inc.

From Booklist

Tayler, author of Facing the Congo (2000) and Siberian Dawn (1999), takes readers on a 300-mile journey through the wasteland suffering from an eight-year drought, accompanied by Bedouin guides and a one-humped Arabian camel. He describes the heat, the exhaustion, and the dust storms that "blew through the valley, bending the palms and browning out the sky, filling the air with dirgelike gales." Tayler, who speaks fluent Arabic, writes eloquently of the plagues of insects, the jackals howling at night, and the mud villages. He tells how families live in poverty and filth; most of them are illiterate but they welcomed him in their homes. Tayler discusses their beliefs and traditions in an Islamic society. A fascinating and informative book. ^B George Cohen
Copyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 256 pages
  • Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt (June 2, 2003)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0618155473
  • ISBN-13: 978-0618155477
  • Product Dimensions: 9.3 x 6.4 x 1 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1.1 pounds
  • Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (1 customer review)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,214,198 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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5.0 out of 5 stars Another trip I'll never take, January 1, 2012
This review is from: Glory in a Camel's Eye: Trekking Through the Moroccan Sahara (Hardcover)
Tayler, along with two guides, takes off across the Sahara Desert.

I can add this trip to the list of trips I will never take.

Worst of all was the picture Tayler gives of his stop in the home of a Muslim saint: flies covering the food...children with snotty noses...the smell of animal dung coming from the room next door...green meat...men picking their noses while they ate...the intense desert heat....

In every village Tayler stopped, locals told him he was the first tourist they'd met. Mmmm...isn't that a big surprise?! ;->
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Inside This Book (learn more)
First Sentence:
IN 1986, while in graduate school writing a master's thesis on famine in the Soviet Ukraine, I discovered two books that pointed me toward transformational peregrinations in the Arab world. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
hundred rials, faux guides, sand wall, many germs
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
Jbel Bani, May God, North Africa, Peace Corps, Land Rover, Sidi Abd, Ait Oubelli, Middle East, Beni Slimane, Feast of the Sacrifice, Jbel Ouarkziz, King Hassan, Moulay Rachid, Sidi Salih, Awlad Yahya, Tizgui Falls, United States, Ben Ali, Jbel Kissane, West Africa, Aaa Hassan, Ait Hamou Said, Extra Gunpowder, Hasi Biyyid, Other Lives
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