Chapter One
Coffee
Hot Property
I like to say that the four-foot by four-foot areas occupied by our coffee bars are among the most valuable pieces of real estate in the Hamptons. People love our coffee---and they'll endure long lines to get some. On summer mornings at our Southampton shop, people queue up inside, out the door, and around the corner waiting for their steaming Golden Pear cups. I think---if I do say so myself---that their devotion is entirely justified; we've worked long and hard to learn what makes a good cup of java, and ours is the freshest in the village.
All kinds of little dramas play out at the Golden Pear coffee stations. If you hang around long enough, you're sure to witness something that will leave you chuckling for the rest of the day. For example, Carol Friedland, a good friend and longtime customer of the Golden Pear in East Hampton, is a clinical psychologist who has appeared on lots of TV talk shows: Ricki Lake, Montel Williams, Maury Povich, and the like. One morning she was pouring herself a cup of coffee when Alec Baldwin appeared next to her.
At that moment, one of my newer, younger employees recognized Carol and blurted out, "You're Dr. Carol! I saw you on the Ricki Lake show yesterday! Can I have your autograph?" Carol looked at the handsome actor standing next to her, then back at the staffer and said, "Hey, if you really want someone's autograph, you should get his."
The staffer stared into Alec Baldwin's eyes---and shook her head. "Who are you?" she asked. "I don't know you." Carol proceeded to introduce Alec Baldwin, famous movie star and Broadway actor.
"Never heard of him," the staffer replied.
Carol started to apologize, but Alec, ever the gentleman, broke into a grin. "Nothing to be sorry about," he said. He thought the whole thing was pretty funny and proceeded to get his coffee. The moral of the story: Celebrity might be in the eye of the beholder, but good coffee puts a smile on every face.
The Perfect Cup
Everybody has a different idea of the perfect cup of coffee, and coffee styles differ from place to place. Some like their coffee as thin as tea, while others enjoy it as thick as mud. My produce supplier was Turkish. One day he invited my wife and me over for a cup of coffee. What a surprise---his coffee was dark and thick. I tried to make it more palatable with some milk and sugar, but it wasn't my idea of coffee. Of course, I tried to drink the whole thing---I didn't want to offend him---and I learned that coffee is, well, on the tongue of the beholder.
Coffee is a matter of personal taste, but over the years I've picked up a few tidbits that hold true whether you like your coffee strong or weak, with cream or fat-free milk, with sugar or black.
Beans: At the Golden Pear we use 100 percent Arabica beans from Colombia. We like the Colombian Supremo, the largest variety, and we get them roasted to perfection, with the classic American roasting technique. Over the years, they've been our customers' favorite, and I really think they are the best. That's because they're grown at such high altitudes, so they take longer to mature and consequently have more time to develop and concentrate their flavor. I suggest that you look for Colombian Supremo, but you should also try other beans and blends to find your favorite. Whichever bean or blend you buy, ask when it was roasted. It's worthwhile to shop around for a reputable coffee shop or cafe to find the freshest coffee; it makes a difference in the flavor and aroma. Also, avoid buying loose coffee beans that are stored in wall units or open barrels. Coffee beans lose much of their aroma within a few days of being exposed to the open air. Beans sold in sealed bags, while less picturesque, retain their aroma better. Then, when you get your coffee home, store it properly, in an airtight container that you keep in a cool, dry spot. Don't store your beans in the refrigerator, because the coffee will absorb flavors and aromas of from other foods. You can freeze coffee, but only if you're not going to use it within a two-week period. If you buy coffee that is sold in sealed bags with a valve that allows gases to escape, you can store it unopened for up to three months. Once you open it, however, you should transfer the beans to an airtight container.
Grinding: I recommend buying whole beans and grinding them yourself, or having them ground in the store. If you choose the latter option, you'll find that most commercial coffee grinders have designated settings for different grinds, so your beans will be ground to just the right texture and consistency. If you grind your beans at home---and I urge you to try it; there's really nothing like grinding your coffee immediately before you brew it because the volatile oils expressed in the grinding lose potency when exposed for any length of time---your grinder probably won't be so precise, so test the grind a few times to get it just right. When you grind your coffee beans for an automatic drip machine, the result should feel like granulated sugar. If you are using a French press, the coffee should be ground more coarsely. Espresso beans should be ground to a very fine powder.
Brewing: I believe filtered water makes a huge difference; particularly if you use tap water, all the junk that's in it can interfere with the flavor of the cup. Likewise, brewing temperature is key: Make sure your machine brews coffee at the perfect temperature, which is 195 degrees F. Finally, be sure to use filters that fit your brew basket; if you don't, in addition to having inferior coffee, you'll have a mess to clean up. Try to purchase unbleached filters or gold-plated wire-mesh ones. Both are environmentally friendly.
You can adjust these measurements to your liking, but I recommend the following proportions of coffee to water:
Coffee Water
2 to 2 1/2 tablespoons 6 ounces (3/4 cup)
3 tablespoons 8 ounces (1 cup)
Espresso Water
2 heaping tablespoons 2 ounces (1/4 cup)
Finally, at the Golden Pear any coffee that hasn't sold in thirty minutes---it happens occasionally---is thrown out; old coffee loses flavor. We wouldn't dream of doing otherwise.
Espresso
Makes 1 (2-ounce) cup
"Espresso" is one of the most misunderstood terms in the coffee business. Some think it means beans that have been roasted until they are very dark, while others think it's a kind of bean imported from Italy. Both are incorrect. "Espresso" is a method of brewing, in which hot water is quickly infused with finely ground coffee, either on a stovetop or in an espresso machine. Espresso can be made with light or dark-roasted beans of any variety. Try this recipe at home, and if it's not perfect the first time, give it another try. It will take some practice. Remember that the perfect espresso should have the famous crema after brewing---the creamy beige substance floating on the top. Crema has nothing to do with dairy-based cream. It's what happens naturally to the espresso when it's brewed.
2 heaping tablespoons finely ground espresso
1/4 cup water, preferably filtered
Sugar or other sweetener to taste, optional
Fresh lemon rind, cut into a 1-inch-by-1/4-inch sliver, optional
Gently pack the ground coffee into your espresso maker's brewing basket. Secure the basket in the machine's brewing head. Add the water according to the espresso machine manufacturer's instructions. Brew the espresso and let it flow into a small espresso cup or, if you are going to make cappuccino (see page 00), into a shot glass.
If you wish, add sugar or sweetener to taste or float a piece of fresh lemon rind in the espresso for 15 to 20 seconds.
Cappuccino
Makes 2 (16-ounce) mugs
A cappuccino, properly made, is a delicious pick-me-up at any time of day. We wouldn't even try to improve on the classic recipe: Brew some espresso in an espresso machine, steam the milk until it is warm and frothy, and pour it over the espresso. While traditional recipes call for whole milk, you can substitute low-fat or no-fat milk; the froth won't be as creamy and the flavor won't be as rich, but you'll still have a satisfying brew. If you like, you can top it with a light sprinkling of cinnamon and/or cocoa. Sweeteners are up to you.
4 heaping tablespoons finely ground espresso
1/2 cup water, preferably filtered
1 1/2 cups whole milk
Sugar or other sweetener to taste, optional
Ground cinnamon to taste, optional
Unsweetened cocoa powder to taste, optional
Brew the espresso according to the manufacturer's instructions and divide it between 2 large coffee mugs.
Pour the milk into a stainless steel frothing pitcher. Steam and froth the milk until it is very warm (160 degrees F.).
Slowly pour equal portions of steamed milk into the mugs, holding back the frothy foam with a tablespoon. If you are using sweetener, add it and stir to dissolve it. Then scoop the froth out of the frothing pitcher and ladle it over the top of each mug; if you're feeling artistic, make a few frothy peaks.
If you wish, sprinkle the top of each cappuccino with cinnamon and/or cocoa powder to taste.
Cafe Latte
Makes 2 (16-ounce) mugs
Many coffee lovers don't actually know the difference between a latte and a cappuccino; lately, however, they seem partial to saying the word "latte." The major difference between the two is that cappuccino has the famously frothy foam head on top (the stuff that sticks to your upper lip when you drink it), while the latte has little or no froth but more steamed milk---two-thirds milk to one-third coffee, as a matter of fact. The flavor is similar; which one you prefer just depends on whether you like the froth.
4 heaping tablespoons ground espresso
1/2 cup water, preferably filtered
2 cups whole milk
Sugar or other sweetener to taste, optional
Ground cinnamon to taste, optional
Unsweetened cocoa powder to taste, optional
TIP: To avoid making froth when you steam the milk, ...
