Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture (Dress, Body, Culture) [Paperback]

Paul Hodkinson (Author)

Book Description

ISBN-10: 185973605X | ISBN-13: 978-1859736050 | Publication Date: October 1, 2002 | Edition: First Edition

Goths represent one of the most arresting, distinctive and enduring subcultures of recent times. The dedication of those involved to a lifestyle which, from the outside, may appear dark and sinister, has spawned reactions ranging from admiration to alarm. Until now, no one has conducted a full-scale ethnographic study of this fascinating subcultural group. Based on extensive research by an 'insider', this is the first. Immersing us in the potent mix of identities, practices and values that make up the goth scene, the author takes us behind the faade of the goth mystique. From dress and musical tastes to social habits and the use of the internet, Hodkinson details the inner workings of this intriguing group. Defying postmodern theories that claim media and commerce break down substantive cultural groupings, Hodkinson shows how both have been used by goths to retain, and even strengthen, their group identity.Hodkinson provides a comprehensive reworking of subcultural theory, making a key contribution to the disciplines of sociology, cultural studies, youth studies, media studies, and popular music studies. Readable and accessible, this groundbreaking book presents a unique chance to engage with a contemporary, spectacular culture.

Editorial Reviews

Review

"I would recommend it as a valuable text that should be included on undergraduate reading lists for courses dealing with fan, music and popular cultures." --Garry Crawford, BSA

"While most of us might have moved swiftly on and started wearing baggy jeans, there remains an enormous goth subculture, which Hodkinson, proud to count himself a part of it, analyses stylishly in this "ethnographic study." --The Guardian

"Engaging." --The Daily Telegraph'

"A scholarly yet accessible text [that] successfully conveys what it means to be a Goth." --Sonic Seducer

"The first major anthropological study of UK Goths is a priceless work. [It is a] fascinating read that I found very difficult to put down." --Kaleidoscope

About the Author

Paul Hodkinson is a Lecturer in Sociology, at the University of Surrey.

Product Details

• Paperback: 288 pages
• Publisher: Berg Publishers; First Edition edition (October 1, 2002)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 185973605X
• ISBN-13: 978-1859736050
• Product Dimensions: 9.1 x 6.1 x 0.6 inches
• Shipping Weight: 12 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 3.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (13 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,221,549 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

More About the Author

Discover books, learn about writers, read author blogs, and more.

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

39 of 39 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars A great book - but not Goth For Dummies, August 29, 2002

By 

mick mercer (Selsey, UK) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture (Dress, Body, Culture) (Hardcover)

Given that there is so much about Goth that some people don't appreciate, and a high proportion of that is explained here, you should find the temptation to buy this hard to ignore, so go for it. Although it is an academic work, it isn't the work of a verbal diarrhoea expert, but a sensible Goth who has a weighty task to complete.

From the academic perspective Paul Hodkinson attempts to disprove post-modern claims that media and commerce break down substantive cultural groupings. It covers UK Goth from the mid to late 90's, concentrating on the Birmingham, Plymouth and Leeds area, where 72 interviews were conducted, with over a hundred people completing a Whitby questionnaire.

Although an insider, he has the ability to stand back, and show an overview. As well as examining what Goth means to participants of the scene, Paul asks how strong the sense of the individual is, how consumerism is demonstrated, and the negative or positive aspects involved. He establishes the sense of belonging, as well as the contradiction of open-mindedness set against the occasional feelings of superiority. He covers many areas including shared identity and the chosen elements to Subcultures (Identity, Commitment, Consistent distinctiveness, Autonomy) and the emergence and development of Style, as well as online community. It isn't warts and all, but there are a few minor skin rashes, as he gets interesting responses/admissions from people in his study.

He may often write in a way which anyone hoping for a jolly read will not find easy, but anyone seeking some depth with find their faith amply rewarded. He examines the substance, so if you're interested in more than the surface this will be of great interest.

24 of 24 people found the following review helpful:

3.0 out of 5 stars For academics only, November 22, 2005

By 

Stefan Isaksson (Malmoe, Sweden) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

This review is from: Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture (Dress, Body, Culture) (Paperback)

The book is the color black, it has "goth" in its title, and on the cover one is greeted by two goths with heavy make-up; a woman wearing black fetish wear and a man with a white face, black lipstick, see-through kinky shirt, and large hair reminiscent of Robert Smith of The Cure.

But looks can be deceiving. Goth: Identity, Style, and Subculture is a scholarly book, written by an academic in a academically correct language, put together for an academic audience. It's a book that's difficult to read, filled to the brim with references and footnotes referring to earlier works in sociology, anthropology, and ethnography. In other words, anyone attempting to read all of the 198 pages while not having the required skills is in for a real challenge. However, it can be a challenge worth taking.

Hodkinson, who is both a goth and an academic, has written a book where he analyses the British alternative scene known as Goth during the latter half of the 1990s. Whatever music, fashion, thoughts, ideas, life styles, and more that can be classified as parts of the "gothic subculture" are thoroughly and subjectively analyzed by him. What early bands are seen as founders of gothic music? How are you "supposed" to dress if you want to be part of it all? What clubs and social events are there to be found, and how do you walk and talk the right way once you're there? What in the world are the pros and cons of taking part of a subculture where the great majority dress in black, has a fascination with death and the darker sides of life, spend hours every day putting on make-up, dress in bizarre fetish clothing, while all the time having to endure being harassed by the "normal" people?

This, and more, is dealt with by Hodkinson, but Goth is still not a "manual" of how to become gothic. It's a scholarly book, no doubt about that, even though bands such as Cure, Bauhaus, and Sisters of Mercy are mentioned and different gothic fashion is shown (in low quality black and white photographs). If one's interested in this particular subculture, or indeed happens to already be a goth, then Goth is a definite must, but one must also be aware of the fact that large parts of the books are made up of difficult texts where lots of sociological phenomena and theory are discussed. In case you've never taken a class in sociology, well, then this book might not be the right choice for you.

People with more of a casual interest in the gothic way of life should try to find other, more easily understood books. Still, Goth is not a bad book, provided that you're able to understand it.

14 of 14 people found the following review helpful:

3.0 out of 5 stars good scholarly research, but a bit dry, August 18, 2005

By 

Victoria L. Hardy "Victorian fashion enthusiast" (Bristol, RI United States) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

This review is from: Goth: Identity, Style and Subculture (Dress, Body, Culture) (Paperback)

I see that this book was unfairly trashed by a few reviewers, and I thought I should offer a review. I once used it for a sociology project in college, as I couldn't simply plead extensive familairity with the subject and life experience without any academic sources, and to be honest I was delighted to finally see a study on the subject.
First off, this book investigates how Goth culture works from the standpoint of sociology, and uses all its methods. If you are interested in sociology, it is an interesting book, and one that delves into some very intrigiung points about the inner workings of Goth culture. However, this meticulously researched and solidly argued book has one major flaw: it is indeed dry reading. For that reason, it is best for academic uses. If you want to know about Goth culture in general there are other books on the subject now-I'd highly recommend "Goth Chic: A Connoiseur's Guide to Dark Culture" by Gavin Baddely and perhaps also "What is Goth?" by Voltaire-but only if you can take that one with the proper grain of salt.
Neither of those books has any color plates either, and for good reason. Color plates are quite expensive and most non coffee table books have few or none for good reason, given the realities of the publishing industry!
I do agree with the complaint about the cover picture-I wish they had used a different picture-but you know what they say about not judging a book by its cover.It's also true that authors are often not given much say about the cover art of their books. As a further note of the scholarly nature of this book, I'll add that there are not all that many pictures in it anyway-it is mostly text. So, the bottom line: as a scholarly work it is greatly recommended, but for general reading it is rather dry.