Tomory first visited Goa in 1976, not too long before the emergence of "Touristhan"--the kingdom of mass tourism, travel aspiring to the condition of television, and the new conquistador. Package tourism was promoted by the Indian government in the hopes of ridding Goa of hippies and infusing the area with dollars. Tomory, who has an eye for irony, contemplates this onslaught of modernity throughout the book, convinced that it has brought more changes than any of the other outside influences combined. While Tomory makes clear his preference--he still rents an old fishing house with the new, modern Goa hidden behind it--he does not force his sentimentality. He lets the people of Goa speak for themselves, and many defend the new cash economy. After all, Goa is a society of compatible incompatibles, and the cultural variation that has always characterized the place is more resilient and stubborn than any surface uniformity. --Lesley Reed
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