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on June 2, 2007
The product appears to be equal to the more expensive comercial spray in products that cost 6x the price. The trade off is elbow grease. You have to prep the bed, and degloss the surface. The small sanding sheet provided would take too long and certainly never do a fullsize pickup. I am skeptical that it would give the surface the scuff it really needs to hold for a lifetime. I used a 5 inch random orbit sander, took my time (4 hours) and then applied the product. It put it on a new 2006 truck, and it took courage to sand down the bed thinking if it didnt work well that I just ruined my new truck. The roller that was provided worked well. The handle has a threaded end for a pole so pick one up, as you will need it to recoat the bed when you have completed the first coat and can't get back in the bed. Time will be the utimate test but it looks good, seems tough and worked well. Also pick up a 3 dollar paint stir attachment for your drill. You need to keep the small particles suspended while you are painting on the product. I believe this will easily add several hundred dollars at trade-in time. My effort was worth it.

Update, three years later this is holding up great and does a good job protecting the bed. I always keep a truck cap or tonneau cover on the bed, so it is not directly exposed to sun or snow. It definitely will fade in direct sun exposure, but I believe all coatings will.
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on March 14, 2013
Really nice product. I was skeptical at first but after reading reviews I tried it out and I am happy that I did. The finished product indeed looks professional and appears to be durable and good quality. Pictures posted.
Read the instructions, take your time, use gloves and old clothes and place something under the container to catch drips and for sure have great ventilation! The can is difficult to open, well-sealed for shipping I suppose, just keep working around the rim and eventually it will surrender. It took me several minutes to open the can.
Comes with a pad to rough up surfaces, 1 paint brush, 1 roller handle and 2 roller pads, you need two coats. The roller handle is really cheap but it gets the job done and it is a throwaway. I completed my job within 24 hours allowing drying time for the first coat. I did a diamond-plate flatbed, about 38 square feet, with 2 coats and still have about one half gallon remaining. It appears there should be plenty for a standard bed pick-up including sides and tailgate.
I used painters blue tape for edges but that did not work well on the diamond-plate, the liquid carrier ran underneath. For the final coat I used duct tape to obtain the crisp line I wanted and it worked. I rolled it on directly out of the can, I left a paint stir-stick in the can and as I worked I stirred the coating each time I dipped the roller in. The consistency appears to be just right I did not need to thin it out, stirs easily and is rich with texture (see close up of finish on diamond-plate.)
Dab product in corners with paint brush, don't try to paint in normal fashion, when using the roller do not press down, it just thins out the application, get the roller well coated (mind the drips) and just move it across the area to coat.
The first coat looked good however appeared to be a bit thin but the second application really did the trick, I now have a nice looking and thick application. I allowed the first coat to cure overnight about 16 hours, instructions state that the second coat needs to be applied within 24 hours so it will adhere to the first coat.
I recommend for the do-it-yourselfer.
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on February 16, 2008
I already had a spray-in bedliner in my truck, I actually used this product under the body line to protect from chips while off-roading etc. I must say, when all was said and done, I thought the Herculiner was as good looking, if not better than the spray-in.

The supplies provided are actually fairly quality. The roller is smooth, the brush doesn't gum up, the scuff pad seems like a real Scotch pad too. All I had to buy was a roll of blue tape, a paint pan, and some Xylene, if no Xylene can be obtained some acetone or MEK will suffice. So about 20 bucks in additional supplies.

The steps are simple once you've acquired the extra supplies: Wash, tape, scuff, wipe down with Xylene, let dry and roll the Herculiner on. You should make certain to have mixed the product thoroughly. After a good while (as the product takes a while in 45 degrees to cure) it's time to re-apply; when it's about to lose it's tacky feeling. Pull the tape while it's all still curing and...voila! Fresh clean lines with a great textured finish.

The result is wonderful, it's basically a poly-something-or-other with tiny rubbery peices in it. The peices seem to allow the product to be applied thicker than normal enamels, and the rubber pieces wind up being distributed fairly evenly, resulting in a clean, textured finish. I have no doubt it will be far more durable than anything I'll be putting it through, with the exception (perhaps) of scraping it on rocks to the point of damaging the fender itself.

So, with quality supplies included with the kit, some cheap seperate supplies, some careful thought-out prep work, you can no doubt create a very desirable and durable finish on most anything. This product can also be applied to most things, wood, concrete, asphalt, plastics, metals etc., which multiplies it's usefulness several fold.

In my opinion, with the ease of application, the quality and durability of the product, and the decent supplies included; Herculiner is a wonderful buy. If you weigh the cost of a professional liner job, the inexpensiveness of Herculiner, and them both resulting in roughly the same end, I can't really see the point of not using Herculiner. I must say though, to achieve a more lasting finish, I would recommend more like 3-4 coats to assure a finish that would outlast most needs.

It should be mentioned that Herculiner can bond to itself, so even in the event of damage, it's simply repaired. Also, even if it becomes faded, I've read reviews that state a simple application of Armor-all can rejuvinate it's deep black color. It also supposedly comes in other colors; red, grey, and white I think -I may be wrong though, I used the black. I recommend this product, it's far to inexpensive compared to a "pro" job, and far too reliable and simple to not recommend.

* Update *
It's been about a year since I applied this to my truck, and it's still as durable and isn't peeling or anything. One thing worth mention, it becomes a little dull if it sits in the sun for a long time, but I figure that's what the UV protector is for, you know, that UV protector I didn't get :) No big deal, throw a little on it (or maybe even some spray wax) ought to shine it right back up. Still been a good product though, all bedliners get dull in the sun anyway.
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on December 10, 2010
After reading reviews on a lot of products I dedcided to go with Hurculiner. The kit comes with the necessities but there are few steps/additional items they can be used for the best results.

First off I read online instructions and reviews to get the overall process down, glad you are doing the same. Most reviews state that additional sanding items will be needed, this is true. I have a 2008 Dakota that was destroyed from moves, camping and hauling. The bare metal on the rails and bed had a light layer of Hawaii rust when I started the process. Some suggestions for additional items are as follows:

2x 60 Grit Sanding Block
1x 3 Inch / 1 Inch Painters Tape
Paint Thinner
Paint Pan / Stir Stick
Electric Sander w/ 60-80 Grit Paper (optional)
Paint Pole
Large Paint Brush

After removing all inner hardware I taped off the "over rail" lines using the 3 inch painters tape. There will be a small amount of run on the paint so this is important. for the curves in the back of the bed to the tail gate I used the thinner tape, easier to bend.

Next came the cleaning - wash it out with soap and water using the provided wool cloth to get up surf wax, oil stains and dog leftovers. Then comes the sanding - I used the sanding blocks for the rails, wheel wells and corners. The large surfaces can be done by hand but I opted to use the electric sander. Some people decided to go all the way to bare metal, I did this on the rust spots only and did an even sand on everything else. I finished by re-washing, drying and wiping down everything that was going to be painted with Paint Thinner. The preperation process took an entire morning (7am-10am).

Now the application: Make sure you apply in the shade, this stuff will dry fast. I started with the tail gate rails and inner surface, disconnected from the truck. This helped me get a good idea of how the paint spreads and application feel. Next I continued with the bed rails. It is very important that you have a rag or sponge to wipe drips or splash. This can be mitigated by rolling very slow and taking your time. I finished it up by doing the back inner wall, side walls and actual bed last. Be careful not to paint over your harware points or drainage holes (unless you want to fill up the bed for a hot tub party). The application process took about 2-3 hours.

Some Tips they dont tell you: The provided sponge roller is key for even distribution of the rubber within the paint. There are two sponges. Do your first coat all at once, save the other roller for a later date. The small brush is good for the corners but a little small, a larger brush would cover more surface area. There was 1/4 can left over after completing a meduim size bed, dont buy the extra unless you want a SERIOUS bed liner that will increase your MPG by 10.

I am going to give this product 5 Stars. It was easy and looks great. The hard part is the labor but for $150 I have a $500 bedliner. Jam some tunes, send the wife out shopping and you will be done before the end of the day...

I plan on updating in a year on how well it holds up with light to medium use.

**** so the edit is a bit over a year****
This DIY was solid at first but will require additional upkeep within the first two years. I let it go due to pure laziness. I have recently stumbled on a rubber based deck restore that achieved the same (if not better) results for 1/4 of the price. Your local home improvement store will be able to not only advise but mix to any color! Rust-o-leum deck restore is the new DIY, and @ $25 per gallon, even with possible upkeep, you can't beat it...
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on October 7, 2010
I just want to start off by saying I tried the duplicolor stuff first and can honestly say it wasn't worth the price I paid for it (which was nothing). Herculiner is certainly a step better. It looks tough and has a good texture. It adheres well and the kit comes with almost everything you need to do the job. If you don't have a good power sander and some acetone handy this probably won't work out well for you. For the $100 total investment ($75 shipped on ebay, paint stir attachment for my drill and acetone) it was well worth the money. My IH scout needed a little more than the gallon to even out the texture but that includes the floor pan under the front seats too.

The downside to this over a professional job (at least in my experience) is the textured material will get clumpy and leave uneven spots. I carefully took a grinder to the high spots and touched up but it shouldn't do that in the first place. It also is taking a LONG time to cure. I finished painting two days ago and the paint is still sticky. I can only assume these problems are due to how cold and humid it is where I did the work (I was going to give this product 3 stars but I don't think my problems would have occurred if it were warm and sunny).

My conclusion is if you have a lot of time and don't mind the hard work (lots of fumes and dust too) this is worth the money. A lot of people will tell you it's as good as a professional job but don't believe them! Dollar for dollar it's definitely a better value than a professional job, but I have had both rhino liner and Line-x on two different pick ups and both were far superior to the job I did or any of my friends who have used roll on liners. If you can write off the expense of a proffesional job against your taxes for a company vehicle or just have the money to spend I would go Line-x. If you're looking for a good value, tough finish and easy clean up for your 4x4, like me, this is the only product I'd recommend.

EDIT: It took about 8 days to cure properly in the garage. From what I've been reading that would be due to the cold and dark. It's a basement garage so when the door is shut it's in the 50's and pitch black. I would recommend if you're going to try to do this somewhere cold to bring a space heater to speed up the curing process. Also, when I pulled away the masking tape some of the herculiner came with it so get an extra quart for touch ups.

EDIT 2: It has been two weeks now and while MOST of it has cured there are still spots that are sticky to the touch. I would really only recommend this product if you have access to a heated work space or it was a warm and sunny weekend. Also, before trying to pull away the masking tape run a razor blade through the herculiner where the edge should stop. If you just try to pull the tape away you'll be left with uneven edges. If I come across any more surprises down the road I'll post them.
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on June 18, 2015
I applied this product to my pickup truck bed. It took two days for me to complete the project. I spent a day prepping the bed and applying the first two coats, the next day I applied a third coat. It could have been done in one day but I spent a lot of time on the bed prep. I used a gallon and 1 quart to cover a 6 foot bed. That gave me three coats of product. It was glossy black at first, but after a couple of weeks outside it looks kind of like a flat black now. It is still adhered to the bed very well, no chipping or peeling. I used medium grit sanding sponges to scuff the paint and followed up with the scotch brite pad. For the rest of the application I followed the manufacturer's directions. As with any paint, surface prep is the key. I'm happy with the results.
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on June 14, 2011
I decided to try Herculiner since I couldn't afford over $1000 to have a pro protect the long bed of my '97 Chevy C/K 3500. I sanded all day on the first day with my orbital sander and coarse sand paper(the green scouring pad it came with made it harder to do by hand, so I went with a sander for the large areas), washed it and then wiped it down with Xylene. The next day I taped off areas to avoid, finished sanding in the taped areas and then applied the Herculiner. It's very important to tape areas you want to avoid and make sure the bed is really clean. Esp oily spots and in the seams. It took me a few hours(with some help)to do the first coat and then about 4 hours or so for it to dry enough to apply the 2nd coat. If you can, don't do it outside if it's windy and wear gloves (they don't have to be heavy duty, at least mine weren't). Also buy a small bottle of Xylene to thin up the liquid(if needed), to keep your brushes from getting tacky while it's drying after the first coat and to remove any wet product that you get on your skin. Once it dries on your skin, it's next to impossible to get off. Follow the instructions for best results. Being a girl and somewhat mechanically inclined, it wasn't as hard as I thought. The hardest part was the sanding, I'd have to say(I'd wear a sand mask if possible too, I did). But the better you scuff up that top clear coat, the better it adheres. In my opinion, it looks awesome! And makes me feel good that I did most of it myself! Cheers!
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on April 20, 2015
I applied this to the "tub" and rear door of my 2000 Jeep Wrangler. Looks great and wears like iron. The jeep is bright yellow inside and out so I had to ensure that the application was thick enough to prevent the yellow from showing through. Fairly easy application if you are at all handy with a sander and paint roller. Will be buying again to do the bed of a Dodge Ram pickup I am in the process of buying.
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on May 17, 2016
Ive used this for a number of years...I have had it on two different trucks now. the first was the bed liner for a 95 chev and it lasted pretty good for about 5 years before I sold the vehicle. I have just finished doing the bed of a 2006 f250 8ft bed and also the outside of the wheel fenders and rocker panels. Some of the problems you will run into is making sure you sand down the paint well and use Acetone to wipe off the area for prepping the surface. this will help it from fish-eying when applying. The other issue is that it will dull out pretty quick in the sun. After contacting the manufacturer about this, I was told any polyurethane is compatible to put over the top. I used a polyurethane clear coat brush on spar varnish that has UV protectant in it...it takes that stuff about 3 days to dry though. Spar varnish is an exterior polyurethane that flex's with temps and sun...took about a half a quart to do the sides of my truck with it...As far as the price I got it on sale for 65bucks at a farm fleet store and purchased two kits with rollers and scuff pad....you can do this yourself and save a bundle.
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on December 2, 2015
For the price you wont beat it. I have done this twice now with the same product and each time I learn more and get better at the job. Prep is the key to success with any product like this. I spend typically four hours getting my truck bed ready which includes, a dry wipe to make sure all dirt and grime are off the bed, then a thorough sanding, mineral oil treatment to see where i have missed sanding, sand again hitting the spots i have missed and focus on the more used spots of the truck. I then apply a thin layer on all of the truck bed, let it sit for about an hour or two then come back and really glob it on in the high traffic spots, I then let sit another hour and finally apply the rest of the liquid to the whole area. So far I am very impressed and the pictures show the work I have put into it on both my rigs.
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