This book covers the full gamut of surfing topics including the history, professionalism, surfboard evolution, professional surfers, the Hawaiian Islands, kneeboards, wave skills, windsurfers, and the future of surfing. Lots and lots of rare color photos covering surfings exciting past and present.
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Editorial Reviews
From the Inside Flap
Surfing is one of the most exciting and stunningly beautiful sports in the world. The modern surfer on his small plastic board is the product of a fascinating history of development. Nat Young, one of the world's great surfers, has produced an illustrated history of the sport that is the most definitive and authoritative ever published. This book is the result of a lifetime of involvement with surfing and a deep interest in its history. Nat has had discussions with the greats of the sport, from Duke Kahanmoku through to contemporary stars like Kelly Slater and Lisa Anderson. He tells for the first time the real story behind the remarkable development of what we see as modern surfing in California in the '40s.
Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing photos that have never before been published, and the work of the world's best surf photographers, gathered together in a volume for the first time; a feat remarkable even for a surfer of the authority of Nat Young.
He traces the paths of the development of the sport from the Hawaiian kings through to the current crop of professionals. Along the way are portraits of some of the remarkable figures that the sport has seen-and it is a field not short of its eccentric stars.
To all this, Nat brings his personal knowledge and stories, and the inside expertise gathered in his years of deep involvement with the sport of surfing. Nat Young is recognized as one of the great surfers in the history of the sport. He was born in 1947, grew up in Collaroy on Sydney Australia's northern beaches, and won the World Championship in 1966 in California; the Smirnoff contest in Hawaii in 1972. He was several times Australian junior and open champion, his first open championship at Bondi at the age of 15. In the late 1960s, he and a handful of others ushered in the 'new era' in surfboard riding, a power-oriented style which forms the basis of contemporary surfing.
In 1986 older surfers began to compete professionally on longboards. Nat's unique style and good luck enabled him to become World Longboard Champion in 1988, '89 and '90.
Today he is a dedicated surfer and family man with four children. He is the author of several books on surfing and produced the film The History of Australian Surfing. He has strong environmental convictions and is a board member of the Association of Surfing Professionals. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing photos that have never before been published, and the work of the world's best surf photographers, gathered together in a volume for the first time; a feat remarkable even for a surfer of the authority of Nat Young.
He traces the paths of the development of the sport from the Hawaiian kings through to the current crop of professionals. Along the way are portraits of some of the remarkable figures that the sport has seen-and it is a field not short of its eccentric stars.
To all this, Nat brings his personal knowledge and stories, and the inside expertise gathered in his years of deep involvement with the sport of surfing. Nat Young is recognized as one of the great surfers in the history of the sport. He was born in 1947, grew up in Collaroy on Sydney Australia's northern beaches, and won the World Championship in 1966 in California; the Smirnoff contest in Hawaii in 1972. He was several times Australian junior and open champion, his first open championship at Bondi at the age of 15. In the late 1960s, he and a handful of others ushered in the 'new era' in surfboard riding, a power-oriented style which forms the basis of contemporary surfing.
In 1986 older surfers began to compete professionally on longboards. Nat's unique style and good luck enabled him to become World Longboard Champion in 1988, '89 and '90.
Today he is a dedicated surfer and family man with four children. He is the author of several books on surfing and produced the film The History of Australian Surfing. He has strong environmental convictions and is a board member of the Association of Surfing Professionals. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
From the Back Cover
"Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing that have never before been published, and the work of the world's best surf photographers, gathered together in a volume for the first time; a feat remarkable even for a surfer of the authority of Nat Young." -JOHN JONES, SURFER MAGAZINE
"Surfing is of course a great pastime, an escapist form of recreation, an artistic expression of the soul, a highly challenging sport for young and old, and... a culture. This book suits both surfers, historians and beachgoers alike." -BILL SMITH, THE LOS ANGELES TIMES
--This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
"Surfing is of course a great pastime, an escapist form of recreation, an artistic expression of the soul, a highly challenging sport for young and old, and... a culture. This book suits both surfers, historians and beachgoers alike." -BILL SMITH, THE LOS ANGELES TIMES
--This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars
Cool for waxheads and non-surfers alike,
By Roger McEvilly (the guilty bystander) (Sydney, NSW Australia) - See all my reviews
This review is from: History Of Surfing (Paperback)
Surfing is of course a great pastime, an escapist form of recreation, an artistic expression of the soul, a highly challenging sport for young and old, and... a culture. This book suits both surfers, historians and beachgoers alike. The history of the sport is curious. The polynesians engaged in it, as described by Captain Cook in 1777. "I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea." Nat Young the author and former world surfing champion, traces its roots to the modern age of professionalism, commercialism, hippie cultures, with notes on board development, big wave riding, surf safaris, and so on. The book is becoming a little dated in this respect, as there is no toe-ins yet, amongst other things. But there may in fact be a revised edition which has these things-look around. For the non-surfer there is some great historical pictures and stories. For the thinking surfer there is all this and some great waves. The only drawback for me, is that Nat Young is not a great writer, or narrator. The movie by the same name bears this out. Still, he is original if nothing else, and conveys the nature of surfing very well.
4.0 out of 5 stars
A Great Overview,
By
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This review is from: History of Surfing (Paperback)
The photos in this book are really wonderful and tell the story. The commentary isn't too bad, either! A great coffeetable book or gift for anyone who loves the sport.
5.0 out of 5 stars
A lovely gift any surfer will appreciate.,
By Midwest Book Review (Oregon, WI USA) - See all my reviews
This review is from: History of Surfing (Paperback)
There have been numerous books over the years to celebrate methods of surfing or best surfing spots: now THE HISTORY OF SURFING provides an illustrated, definitive overview of the sport and its roots. From interviews with surfing champions of previous decades to reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing photos - some never before published - this covers the great boatmen, surfers, and their equipment and techniques in full color. A lovely gift any surfer will appreciate.
Diane C. Donovan California Bookwatch
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Inside This Book
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First Sentence:
Surfing has been around for a long time. Read the first page Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
finest surfers, older surfers, ski riders, surf movies, surfboard design, surfboard riding, wave skis, surfboard riders, board builders, surf stars, twin fins, pro contests, hot curl, hollow board, other surfers, professional surfer, shorter boards, quality waves, paddle boards, many surfers, surf club, small surf, single fins, professional contests, surf ski Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
Mark Richards, Wally Froiseth, Phil Edwards, Tom Curren, Joe Quigg, South Africa, United States, Gold Coast, San Diego, San Onofre, Mickey Dora, Waimea Bay, Mike Doyle, Wayne Lynch, Cheyne Horan, Midget Farrelly, World War, Bells Beach, Ben Aipa, David Nuuhiwa, Duke Kahanamoku, Joey Cabell, Reno Abellira, Rip Curl, Tom Carroll New!
Books on Related Topics | Concordance | Text Stats Browse Sample Pages:
Front Cover | Table of Contents | First Pages | Back Cover | Surprise Me!
Surfing has been around for a long time. Read the first page Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
finest surfers, older surfers, ski riders, surf movies, surfboard design, surfboard riding, wave skis, surfboard riders, board builders, surf stars, twin fins, pro contests, hot curl, hollow board, other surfers, professional surfer, shorter boards, quality waves, paddle boards, many surfers, surf club, small surf, single fins, professional contests, surf ski Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
Mark Richards, Wally Froiseth, Phil Edwards, Tom Curren, Joe Quigg, South Africa, United States, Gold Coast, San Diego, San Onofre, Mickey Dora, Waimea Bay, Mike Doyle, Wayne Lynch, Cheyne Horan, Midget Farrelly, World War, Bells Beach, Ben Aipa, David Nuuhiwa, Duke Kahanamoku, Joey Cabell, Reno Abellira, Rip Curl, Tom Carroll New!
Books on Related Topics | Concordance | Text Stats Browse Sample Pages:
Front Cover | Table of Contents | First Pages | Back Cover | Surprise Me!
Citations (learn more)
This book cites 7
books:
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8
books
cite this book:
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- Later On by F.T. Prince on page 55
- The Sydney Opera House (Summit softie) by Vincent Smith on page 120
- Guess Who by Sharon Gordon on page 157
- The Olympic Games by Ron Thomas on page 88
- Great Britain (Discovering Cultures) by Sharon Gordon on page 97
See all 7 books this book cites
- Essential Surfing by George Orbelian on page 247, Back Matter (1), and Back Matter (2)
- Golden State, Golden Youth: The California Image in Popular Culture, 1955-1966 by Kirse Granat May in Back Matter (1), and Back Matter (2)
- The Saltwater Wilderness by Glenn Vanstrum in Back Matter
- Walking on Water: The Spirituality of the World's Top Surfers by Jeremy V. Jones on page 37
- Cornwall Coast Path: British Walking Guides by Edith Schofield on page 76
See all 8 books citing this book
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