History of Surfing [Paperback]

Nat Young (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: July 14, 2006

The History of Surfing by world champion surfer Nat Young shares the history, stories, and inside expertise gathered in his years of deep involvement with the sport of surfing. The History of Surfing covers the full gamut, including the history, professionalism, surfboard evolution, professional surfers, the Hawaiian Islands, kneeboards, wave skills, windsurfers, and the future of surfing. Exclusive rare color photos covering surfing's exciting past and present bring to life one of the most exciting and stunningly beautiful sports in the world.
This book is the result of a lifetime of involvement with surfing and a deep interest in its history, and includes Nat's discussions with the greats of the sport, from Duke Kahanmoku to contemporary stars like Kelly Slater and Lisa Anderson.
Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing, along with the work of the world's best surf photographers, including portraits of some of the remarkable figures that the sport has seen.
Chapters include:
Surfing Roots
Hawaiian Revival
Heyday of the Hollow Board
Evolution of the Modern Board
The Age of Surf Clubs
Big Waves, Big Boards
The Oz Connection
World Championships
Pocket Rockets and Twin Fins
The Birth of Professionalism
Surfer Girls
Surfing with a Sail

Editorial Reviews

From the Inside Flap

Surfing is one of the most exciting and stunningly beautiful sports in the world. The modern surfer on his small plastic board is the product of a fascinating history of development. Nat Young, one of the world's great surfers, has produced an illustrated history of the sport that is the most definitive and authoritative ever published. This book is the result of a lifetime of involvement with surfing and a deep interest in its history. Nat has had discussions with the greats of the sport, from Duke Kahanmoku through to contemporary stars like Kelly Slater and Lisa Anderson. He tells for the first time the real story behind the remarkable development of what we see as modern surfing in California in the '40s.
Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing photos that have never before been published, and the work of the world's best surf photographers, gathered together in a volume for the first time; a feat remarkable even for a surfer of the authority of Nat Young.
He traces the paths of the development of the sport from the Hawaiian kings through to the current crop of professionals. Along the way are portraits of some of the remarkable figures that the sport has seen-and it is a field not short of its eccentric stars.
To all this, Nat brings his personal knowledge and stories, and the inside expertise gathered in his years of deep involvement with the sport of surfing. Nat Young is recognized as one of the great surfers in the history of the sport. He was born in 1947, grew up in Collaroy on Sydney Australia's northern beaches, and won the World Championship in 1966 in California; the Smirnoff contest in Hawaii in 1972. He was several times Australian junior and open champion, his first open championship at Bondi at the age of 15. In the late 1960s, he and a handful of others ushered in the 'new era' in surfboard riding, a power-oriented style which forms the basis of contemporary surfing.
In 1986 older surfers began to compete professionally on longboards. Nat's unique style and good luck enabled him to become World Longboard Champion in 1988, '89 and '90.
Today he is a dedicated surfer and family man with four children. He is the author of several books on surfing and produced the film The History of Australian Surfing. He has strong environmental convictions and is a board member of the Association of Surfing Professionals.

From the Back Cover

"Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing that have never before been published, and the work of the world's best surf photographers, gathered together in a volume for the first time; a feat remarkable even for a surfer of the authority of Nat Young." -JOHN JONES, SURFER MAGAZINE
"Surfing is of course a great pastime, an escapist form of recreation, an artistic expression of the soul, a highly challenging sport for young and old, and... a culture. This book suits both surfers, historians and beachgoers alike." -BILL SMITH, THE LOS ANGELES TIMES

See all Editorial Reviews

Product Details

• Paperback: 224 pages
• Publisher: Gibbs Smith (July 14, 2006)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1423601211
• ISBN-13: 978-1423601210
• Product Dimensions: 12.1 x 8.9 x 0.6 inches
• Shipping Weight: 2.4 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 4.5 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (4 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #1,697,760 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

4 of 4 people found the following review helpful:

4.0 out of 5 stars Cool for waxheads and non-surfers alike, January 7, 2001

By 

Roger McEvilly (the guilty bystander) (Sydney, NSW Australia) - See all my reviews

This review is from: History Of Surfing (Paperback)

Surfing is of course a great pastime, an escapist form of recreation, an artistic expression of the soul, a highly challenging sport for young and old, and... a culture. This book suits both surfers, historians and beachgoers alike.

The history of the sport is curious. The polynesians engaged in it, as described by Captain Cook in 1777. "I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea." Nat Young the author and former world surfing champion, traces its roots to the modern age of professionalism, commercialism, hippie cultures, with notes on board development, big wave riding, surf safaris, and so on. The book is becoming a little dated in this respect, as there is no toe-ins yet, amongst other things. But there may in fact be a revised edition which has these things-look around.

For the non-surfer there is some great historical pictures and stories. For the thinking surfer there is all this and some great waves. The only drawback for me, is that Nat Young is not a great writer, or narrator. The movie by the same name bears this out. Still, he is original if nothing else, and conveys the nature of surfing very well.

4.0 out of 5 stars A Great Overview, September 20, 2007

By 

K. E. Larson (Landenberg, PA USA) - See all my reviews
(REAL NAME)   

Amazon Verified Purchase

This review is from: History of Surfing (Paperback)

The photos in this book are really wonderful and tell the story. The commentary isn't too bad, either! A great coffeetable book or gift for anyone who loves the sport.

5.0 out of 5 stars A lovely gift any surfer will appreciate., December 12, 2006

By 

Midwest Book Review (Oregon, WI USA) - See all my reviews

This review is from: History of Surfing (Paperback)

There have been numerous books over the years to celebrate methods of surfing or best surfing spots: now THE HISTORY OF SURFING provides an illustrated, definitive overview of the sport and its roots. From interviews with surfing champions of previous decades to reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing photos - some never before published - this covers the great boatmen, surfers, and their equipment and techniques in full color. A lovely gift any surfer will appreciate.

Diane C. Donovan
California Bookwatch