Customer Reviews

History of Surfing

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Surfing is of course a great pastime, an escapist form of recreation, an artistic expression of the soul, a highly challenging sport for young and old, and... a culture. This book suits both surfers, historians and beachgoers alike.

The history of the sport is curious. The polynesians engaged in it, as described by Captain Cook in 1777. "I could not help concluding that this man felt the most supreme pleasure while he was driven on so fast and so smoothly by the sea." Nat Young the author and former world surfing champion, traces its roots to the modern age of professionalism, commercialism, hippie cultures, with notes on board development, big wave riding, surf safaris, and so on. The book is becoming a little dated in this respect, as there is no toe-ins yet, amongst other things. But there may in fact be a revised edition which has these things-look around.

For the non-surfer there is some great historical pictures and stories. For the thinking surfer there is all this and some great waves. The only drawback for me, is that Nat Young is not a great writer, or narrator. The movie by the same name bears this out. Still, he is original if nothing else, and conveys the nature of surfing very well.

The photos in this book are really wonderful and tell the story. The commentary isn't too bad, either! A great coffeetable book or gift for anyone who loves the sport.

There have been numerous books over the years to celebrate methods of surfing or best surfing spots: now THE HISTORY OF SURFING provides an illustrated, definitive overview of the sport and its roots. From interviews with surfing champions of previous decades to reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing photos - some never before published - this covers the great boatmen, surfers, and their equipment and techniques in full color. A lovely gift any surfer will appreciate.

Diane C. Donovan
California Bookwatch

Surfing is one of the most exciting and stunningly beautiful sports in the world. The modern surfer on his small plastic board is the product of a fascinating history of development. Nat Young, one of the world's great surfers, has produced an illustrated history of the sport that is the most definitive and authoritative ever published.

This book is the result of a lifetime of involvement with surfing and a deep interest in its history. Nat has had discussions with the greats of the sport, from Duke Kahanmoku through to contemporary stars like Kelly Slater and Lisa Anderson. He tells for the first time the real story behind the remarkable development of what we see as modern surfing in California in the '40s.

Illustrating the book are rare reproductions of early Hawaiian and Australian surfing that have never before been published, and the work of the world's best surf photographers, gathered together in a volume for the first time; a feat remarkable even for a surfer of the authority of Nat Young.

He traces the paths of the development of the sport from the Hawaiian kings through to the cur-rent crop of professionals. Along the way are portraits of some of the remarkable figures that the sport has seen - and it is a field not short of its eccentric stars.