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on September 13, 2011
This is a quality machine - and is the same as the Tanaka, a brand used by many pro gardeners and landscape maintenance persons. I've had McCulloch, Ryobi and a Sears Craftsman (that I returned after the first use). This machine is lighter, runs much quieter, and has quite a bit more power than any of the others. It isn't really in the same league. This one runs flawlessly, has a ton of power, and a quality feel.

Be aware of the mph ratings on some of these yard blowers. They get those ratings by including a worthless little tiny nozzle. That's how the Craftsman got its impressive ratings. But the thing had very poor real-world performance. This Hitachi doesn't come with gimmicky nozzles. You get ONE nozzle, that you always leave on, and that one works very well. For normal yard cleanup where you can't justify one of the expensive backpack units, this one has plenty of grunt.

I originally wanted a blower-vac. No longer. The vac units all get mediocre reviews at best. The Sears blower I had for week was a poor performer, and the vac feature was useless. If you're like me and think you need the vac, re-think it. You probably don't need that worthless feature, and besides, it is a pain on most of these to convert from blower to vacuum. I suggest that you will be much happier with a quality blower-only.

Some of the newer machines have a trigger lock so that you don't always have to hold the trigger. Unless you have a huge yard and are going to use the blower for an hour nonstop, that's another feature that you don't need. In this case it would be nice to have, but don't base your buying decision on it.

I think this one is a great choice. It's not too much money - actually about $25 less money than the Echo at the local home improvement store, has a 7 year consumer warranty, starts easy hot or cold, and really moves some air.

Update - As many have noted, the fuel lines on these have a problem. Mine wouldn't start. the problem was the lines that ran to the primer bulb. Changed them, and now it runs like a champ again. It is too bad that this otherwise great tool has this problem, but it is still so much better than the other blowers in this price range (or even substantially more expensive) that I give it 5 stars and can honestly say I wouldn't have anything else.
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on July 19, 2015
Lightweight, a little loud, but really throws a huge volume of air! It's much better performance than the leaf vac/blower combo I replaced. Plus the blower tube stays on the blower, my old one would always fall off.

I bought this blower in Sept 2011 and got 3 solid summers out of it with no issues at all. 4th summer was a different story, as I started to experience stalling issues. It would start back up then stall again. I looked at the fuel lines and found the black tube was starting to perforate right where it connects to the carb; and the pink / clear looking line from the primer bulb was disintegrating inside the plastic fuel tank. Looks like ethanol in the fuel was eating away at these parts.

I bought some exact replacement parts this summer from ereplacementparts dot com. Black fuel line p/n 6698716 and the pink (or clear looking) fuel pipe p/n 669-8401. Granted I wish I didn't need to do any of this in the first place but it was an easy repair and cost less than $10. In the future I will avoid getting gas with ethanol in it, use a good fuel stabilizer, and take out the fuel and burn any leftover fuel in the carb before winter storage here in Michigan.
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on April 19, 2011
I agree with all of the excellent reviews. I would add just one tip: This blower is equivalent to the Tanaka TRB24EAP. The only differences are the the extra "T" in the model number, color, the name on the label, AND where you can get it serviced under that great 7-year warranty. They are even priced the same on Amazon as of this review.

Tip: Take a few minutes to search the HitachiPowerTools.com and Tanaka-USA.com web sites to see which make has the most convenient certified repair shops for you.

I managed to break the fuel pipe while moving things around in the shed in a hurry (my fault). I'm in a major metropolitan area with several small engine repair shops within a short drive, but the nearest certified Hitachi repair shop is an hour away. In contrast, the nearest Tanaka repair shop is 5 minutes away (there seem to be more Tanaka dealers in general). I'm going to pay for the repair out-of-pocket rather than driving 2 hours round trip or taking the time to mail the thing back to the factory for service.
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on November 18, 2010
I own an Echo backpack blower and a small handheld Weedeater blower. I live on 5 acres with a 300 foot long concrete driveway and hundreds of pine trees and many oaks. As it turns out, the oaks are close to the driveway. On any given fall day, after a good wind, I can find 5" of leaves on the driveway. I have always used the Echo for serious leaf moving and the Weedeater for smaller stuff. A few days ago, the Weedeater quit and I started looking for another "smaller stuff" blower.

The Hitachi (also sold as a Tanaka) came tonight and I just returned from cleaning off the driveway, the front and back porch and a few flower beds in about 1/2 the time it would have taken with the Echo backpack blower. I wouldn't have taken on that much of a workload with the Weedeater (even if it was willing to run).

This blower is powerful, light and easy to control. It putts along at idle and is effective enough to take care of leaves in delicate flower beds. At anything above idle, you have complete control all the way up to blasting a wall of leaves without losing control of the direction of the pile. If I could give this thing 10 stars, I would.
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on December 24, 2011
Received it November 20, used it three times .... Died December 23rd. RIP. No fuel draw and primer bulb has failed. Needless to say I am not happy with this unit. One would think for as longer as leaf blowers and 2 ccle engines have been on the market quality and reliability should be a no brainer ..... So much for Kizan and 6 Sigma. We need to start building these things in the U.S.

Update 12/28/2011: As some have indicated there is an issue with one of the fuel lines. The problem is with the fuel line that goes to the priming bulb. It's hard to see but if you look at your manual (the very last page once you get past all the other languages) there is an exploded view of system. Look for item 32 and you can see that there are two hoses running to the bulb. Go look at your unit behind the bulb. If you see only one hose look past it and there probably is a hose all the way in the back laying there disconnected. As someone pointed out you have to disassemble the carb by removing two screws behind the air filter cover that hold it together. Be careful of the carb gasket. Once disassembled you will see the cause of the problem right away. The hose is too short and any stress on it will disconnect it. Plus it's almost impossible to reassemble it with this short piece. I took the hose to a local hobby store that sells model airplanes and bought a piece of fuel hose. Cut it about an inch longer than the original piece. I put the spring back in it and reassembled the unit and it works now. This was my solution. I'm not recommending that you do the same.
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on February 7, 2011
I was skeptical about the performance of this blower even after reading other reviews. Epinions lacked reviews. With the sale price as it was, I couldn't pass this blower up. I found the Hitachi RB24EAP quite powerfull, able to blow small rocks and sweet gum balls as well as leaves. I was worried that the blower would overpower me since one review stated the blower went to one side at high power (I assume the effect of centrifical force). I found this to be only a slight push. If you can pick up a bowling ball, you can use this blower without much trouble. Overall, I would rate this blower excellent and would highly recomend it.
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on October 11, 2011
Just as some other have written, there is a possibility of defect out of the box with this item, which is otherwise a great blower.
From the box, my unit would not start. After fiddling with it for over an hour as I noticed that no fuel was getting in the bulb or line (I got to drink some fuel blowing in lines, yummy!) I checked other small engines I owned, read some entries on this machine (Thanks S. McLean), looked at the schematics and found that a small line that goes from the carb should have ended at the back side of the bulb primer. A spring inside the fuel line that keeps it from kinking must have pushed it off the nipple where it belongs. Once connected, it ran like a charm.
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on June 18, 2011
Hello, I drive a big truck, and I bought this to blow out reefer trailers, when they are empty. It used to take me 15-20min. to try and sweep out a trailer, when empty. Now it takes me about 5min.,and it always starts easily.It has plenty of power, and also blow drys out any water, if there is some. I would recommend this leaf blower to anyone. As a side note: I use premixed TRUFUEL, it comes in it's own premixed can, so I don't need a gas can, and it contains no ethanol. 2cycle engines have major problems with ethanol based fuel.
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on October 18, 2011
I bought it 2 years ago. I was good until the 2nd year. First the blower very slowly lost some blowing power. Then last week, as it was running, it made loud sharp metal noises like some loose metal banging inside. And that was it, the noises remained. The warranty was for 5 or 7 years (I forgot which), so I went online to report to Hitachi. The site said the blower had to be checked by "an authorized Hitachi service center first". OK...OK..They provided a map in the US to locate the closest ones. It gets really good now: there are only 9 authorized centers in the US! The only way to get to the closest one to me is to fly there by air! It is less expensive just to ditch away the blower!
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on September 24, 2013
I've owned the Hitachi RB24EAP blower for over two years. On a 1/2 acre yard, it has been through two autumn seasons, two springs, and getting ready to go into the third Autumn. I always store it in a dry, covered area. Even after two years, it starts on the first or second pull, following the priming instructions. Like every small engine, there are however a couple of maintenance items that need to be performed in order to keep it running well.

First two years:
Almost no trouble at all. Ran out of gas a bunch of times, refilled with proper mixture. Didn't think about doing any other maintenance work. Ready to go anytime I needed to use it.

Right about two years since purchase:
Wasn't priming and starting properly. Took more pulls but did start. Noticed a small leak on the fuel line. Did some research and found every single blower (or small engine for that matter) has this problem. It is caused by decomposition of the fuel line, for various reasons, including gasoline itself! Also, there's a second line connected to the fuel tank, which the primer bulb needs to create a vacuum in the tank allowing it to pull gasoline into the engine. Both these lines rot out. Some people say that the Ethanol in gasoline corrodes the pipes.

So how do you fix it?
Quite easily. The universal line repair kits sold at home depot and lowes really are universal. The packaging of these kits does not specifically state that they will work with the Hitachi, but they are indeed universal. Kit comes with two types of lines, a fuel filter, and a wire tool thing that allows you to pull the hose through the fuel tank very easily. You will need a screwdriver, needle nose pliers, an scissors. There are other tutorials about how to change the fuel line, so I won't cover that here. Once you change out the fuel line and the line from the primer bulb (maybe the primer bulb as well if yours is getting hard or cracked). After the lines were replaced, did it work? No!

The fuel line repair did not work, now what?!
Change the spark plug. Don't bother trying to clean it and adjust it. Advance auto sells a $4 wrench specifically for removing small engine spark plugs. While you're there picking up that wrench, spend $2 and get a new spark plug too. It comes pre-adjusted so all you need to do is remove the old one and put in the new one. Ok. Did that work? Yes, started up on the first pull.

Didn't need to this time, but:
Sometimes you need to clean out the carburetor. This is easier than it sounds. Just open it up and blow air into it to make sure there is no gunk in there. In extreme cases, I have seen that it might need to be taken apart and washed with some grease cleaner, and re-assembled.

It ran, but after 10 minutes, it suddenly just stopped. What now?
Ok this time it was my fault. In my rush to test it out, I did not put pre-mixed gas in there, just straight gas. I should have put 50:1 mixed gas in there. Engine froze up from lack of lubrication in the fuel. I know this because the starter coil would not budge and I could not pull the cord to turn the engine. What now? More complicated this time, but still probably fixable. Having never repaired a frozen engine or anything like that, my options are to either scrap the machine and buy a new one. I decided to take a screw driver and open it up just for fun to see if I could un-freeze it. This was easier than I expected. Took out the spark plug, exposing the area where the cam moves up and down. Picked up some "3 in 1" lube (also from home depot or lowes). Put a little bit in there and let the hot engine cool off. Come back an hour or two later and tried the starter cable to see it would turn the engine. Pulled it slowly, not trying to start it, just trying to get the engine to turn. Still wouldn't budge. Put a little bit more 3-in-1 oil into the spark plug hole and then put a little bit more just for good measure. Waited another 15 minutes and tried the pull cord again. This time, it turned. Pulled it slowly a few times and could see through the spark plug hole that the cam was moving up and down. Put in a bit more 3-in-1 oil in there and pulled the cord slowly a few more times till I felt that the lube had smoothed it out. Wipe down the spark plug being careful to not drop it and damaging the spark distance. Screw the spark plug back in and replace the boot. Fill it up with gas, 50:1 mixed this time. Prime it, and pull to start. Came right back!

What I can recommend you can do to keep it running well:
1. Always use 50:1 mixed gas.
2. Always run the gas out if you're going to store it for more than a couple of weeks. This will help the fuel line last longer before you need to replace it again due to decomposition.
3. Always warm the engine up at idle for a couple of minutes before pulling the trigger for full speed.
4. All small engines need maintenance. Learn to change the fuel line and do some light maintenance on the engine. If you have never done it, once it stops running due to lack of maintenance, you're probably going to have to buy a new one so might as well take the time to use the non-working one as your experiment and learn how to work on it. You will be surprised how easy it is. Don't be afraid, because, if you don't fix it yourself, you can either take it to a repair center, or just buy a replacement.
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