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on September 9, 2013
I'm a professional alarm service guy and have installed a number of these. The key is testing, there is a tool that is specifically for these detectors. Dropping keys, breaking bottles in trash cans, etc will NOT work on today's glassbreak detectors (years ago, this would work). The "flex" signal is a thud just before the pitch of shattering glass. If these are located and adjusted properly (as per the instructions), it's rather difficult to intentionally or accidentally trip these.

Out of the box, the sensitivity comes at maximum - from experience, in most residential settings, maximum is too high and tends to cause false alarms. Make sure you install them across from the protected glass (preferred), on the ceiling, or on an adjacent wall, but not on the same wall as it. If you have access to an FG-701 tester to make sure it's adjusted and located properly, that's even better.

Now, on to the real part of my review. I have a Vista-20P system with three of these installed on my first floor in addition to hardwired motions and window contacts. I have each installed per the instructions, and their sensitivity has been tested with the proper FG-701 tool. I've been doing a lot of work to my 100-year old windows, including taking the sashes out to strip the paint, reapply fresh glazing putty, and repainting the sashes. Just an hour or so ago, I was trying to free up a top sash that had been painted shut, and I accidentally broke the glass. I heard the door chime, and saw my kitchen glassbreak (about 15 feet directly across from the window) had tripped. Shortly thereafter, I armed the system and recorded a video. I went outside, and using a hammer, broke more of the glass as if I was trying to enter. The detector tripped the first time (much to my surprise!), the panel went into alarm and my siren sounded.

Even as a pro I've always been a little leery about glassbreak detectors being reliable 100 percent of the time because there is no way to functionally tell if it's working, but this helps even me sleep a little better at night. Still, I would rely on glassbreak detectors as a backup detection method to window contacts, which should be your first line of protection.
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on January 26, 2013
I have purchased two of these for areas in my house with glass panes not suitable for shock sensors that stick to the glass pane itself (eg sliding glass doors, opening windows, etc). I installed them as Zone Type 3, Perimeter Sensor, in my Ademco system.

I purchased a FG701 that simulates a "flex" event followed by sound of breaking glass. The flex event, which was never well-defined anywhere, is basically an object hitting glass prior to a break. Combined, this sensor looks for a flex (thud of something hitting glass), followed by a breaking glass sound. This helps eliminate false-positives. I tested the installation locations with the FG701, mounted the units, and can say they actually work. I re-confirmed it by accidentally triggering the test sound while I had the alarm armed in stay mode :P The alarm instantly went off indicating the faulted zone. Further, I brought my tester to my friend's place with an ADT system that had a similar looking sensor on his wall. Without waiting for me, he went and played with the sensor. It triggered his alarm and the monitoring company called. As a result, I'm certain these devices work quite well.

Note: if you're installing these you really should pick up a FG701. It is difficult to tell if the location of the sensor will pick up both sounds without this device. E.g. how do you know if your drapes are too heavy for the sensor to be 25' away without *really* testing it.
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on April 15, 2014
We installed these units by ourselves to save money. The glass break unit is easy to install using double sided tape. It uses a lithium battery which will last 3-5 years. The glass break sensitivity can be adjusted (low, med, high) - for instances such as yappy dogs that may bark in the high frequency. To test if your dog will set it off, simply modify the control unit to "chime" whenever the system is armed (Armed Stay/Armed Away). We have three small dogs and it hasn't set them off yet.

We installed these units instead of window/door (5816) units since our windows are sliders (left - right) and can open from either side. The alarm company said that 99% of the time, a burglar will break the glass to open the window. It is very infrequent that they would use a glass cutter. We also have motion detectors installed.
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on November 9, 2015
The Honeywell 5853 Wireless Glass Break Detector, I would have to say is very reliable. It has only faulted in error maybe 4 times in 30 days from either myself or the dogs making very loud noises directly below it, which I would expect to happen. The construction of the housing is strong enough to take an intruder throwing something at it without causing the detector to fail to function. The programming of the detector is also pretty straight forward as you need only clap your hands in front of it and watch your alpha keypad while in the zone programming to make sure it picks up the zone sensor information.

I would gladly buy more of these if I have a need in the future.

See my full review on Google+ for the full install story at:
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on December 19, 2015
I own a 2gig Go Control panel (monitored by central security group via alarm dot com). The setup is not trivial but there is a lot of documentation and you tube videos to guide you through all the integration into your system. My main doubt was if this would work easily with my system and it did. If you are not tech savvy I would probably not recommend adding this on your own to your system, but if you are then you will find the documentation to be enough to guide you through adding this to your system. The physical installation is also pretty simple if you have any DIY inclinations. I will return back once it gets more use, but for now the integration was painless (assuming you read up on how and/or watch some you tube videos to get it done). I would definitely recommend this addition to any 2gig Go Control alarm system.

Update: 02/20/16
Side note: I am able to trigger this sensor if I bang my back door (has en embedded 2 foot by 4 foot glass window) just right, interesting that I can do that but kind of makes sense with such a big piece of glass.

example programming for a honeywell 5853 wireless glass break detector on a 2Gig Go Control Panel
Go into configuration menu
enter: 1561
select: System Configuration
(heres where the programming starts)
: -> (right arrow) until you find an unused zone
: down arrow to select "this" slot (zone)
select: Sensor (zone) Type
select: Equipment Code
enter : Serial Number
: check sticker on back side or inside battery compartment (7 characters long)
select: Equipment Age (0=New/1=Existing)
: 1 (existing)
select: Sensor Loop Number
: Loop 1-Motions, Glassbreaks, Smoke, Recessed D/W,Panic Pendant, D/W with wire lead
select: Dialer Delay (1=Enabled/0=Disabled)
: 0(disabled)
select: Voice Descriptor (see cheat sheet link p.2)
Insert to add a word, then type the 3 digit code
Repeat for additional words
and to move between words
: (104) (125) (191)
: glassbreak kitchen sensor
select: Sensor Reports (1=Enabled/0=Disabled)
: 1 (enabled)
select: Sensor Supervised (1=Enabled/0=Disabled)
: 1 (enabled)
select: Sensor Chime (0=Disabled, 1=Voice Only, 2=Voice with Ding-Dong,3=Loud Ding-Dong,4=Loud Ding-Dong with Voice,5=Ding-Dong)
: 2 (Voice with Ding Dong)
press : to program another sensor click Next
: or
press : to end programming click skip then end
press : (exit make sure the box IS checked in the “save changes” box)
: system will reboot and take a few seconds to come back up

make sure to look on you tube if you need more guidance or search for this device on alarm grid dot com
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on December 27, 2012
Most security products come with some pretty dodgy instructions, but the ones included with the glass break protector were pretty good. Installed in my partially exposed basement and enrolled in the Ademco Vista 20P in 10 minutes.
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on November 19, 2013
I get 1 or 2 false alarms from this every month. Slamming the microwave or the cabinet under the sink or dropping toys on hardwood will set this off. I'm seriously looking into alternatives.
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I installed this with my Honeywell Lynx Plus (L3000) alarm system and it brings a little more peace of mind. Since criminals usually smash a window to get in (do they pick locks any more? I think not.), this will give an immediate alarm before the crook even has a chance to unlock that window or door.

The 'high' sensitivity setting is VERY sensitive. My wife putting her keys on the counter set it off. I recommend using the 'medium' setting. When opening the hatch to change it, I also got a tamper alert, so that seems to work as well. Glad to have this as part of my alarm system.
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on May 4, 2015
We've had several recent break-ins in the area, and the thieves were smashing the sliding glass doors of our neighbors' homes. Unfortunately, bar locks do nothing when someone can just break glass. Several of these detectors will go a long way in adding another safety measure to your home to ensure would-be burglars will get thwarted by your security system (and hopefully caught).

Setup/installation was relatively straightforward.
The FG-701 micro-flex tester is basically a mandatory purchase to accompany these detectors. You need to troubleshoot the sensor's sensitivity to distances, echoes, and window coverings in your home to ensure that your alarm system will correctly activate in the event of a break in. Although the flex tester is pricey, it's worth the peace of mind that an intruder won't be able to bypass your system through an Achilles heel.
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on March 20, 2014
It is used as part o our alarm system to detect broken glass if someone tries to enter by breaking a window or glass door. It can be adjusted for sensitivity as we once set it off by popping packing "bubbles!" It was what our alarm system recommended. We installed it ourselves when the old one quit working.
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