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A House in Sicily [Paperback]

Daphne Phelps (Author), Denis Mack Smith (Introduction)
3.1 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (25 customer reviews)


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Paperback, September 1999 --  

Book Description

September 1999
A memoir as delightfully captivating as Under the Tuscan Sun, the story of one woman starting a new life in the "most beautiful house in Sicily.

When artists and writers like Tennessee Williams, Bertrand Russell, Roald Dahl, and the painter Henry Faulkner visited Sicily, they stayed at Casa Cuseni, a perfectly proportioned house built in golden stone on a hillside rising near Mount Etna. For fifty years, this has been the home of Daphne Phelps, who now tells its story with warmth, charm, and style.

In 1947, with barely any Italian and precious little money, the war-weary, thirty-four-year-old Daphne arrived in Taormina to sell the house she had unexpectedly inherited. Instead, she fell in love with the house and its gardens, the community and its way of life. To raise enough money to keep her magical inheritance, Daphne ran Casa Cuseni as a pensione, receiving a variety of illustrious guests.

No less important are the local Sicilians with whom she shared the love and care of Casa Cuseni: Don Ciccio, the town's own Mafia don; Vincenzio, the general manservant who recited poetry while he served the meals; Beppe, a Don Juan who scented his eyebrows and mustache; and above all the steadfast cook and housekeeper, Concetta, who lives with Daphne in her house in Sicily still.



Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

"I had always been a bit of a maverick," writes Daphne Phelps, looking back on why--at the age of 34--when she unexpectedly inherited a grand house in Taormina, Sicily, she gave up her profession in London, left behind her ordered life with its museums, theater, family and friends, and embarked on a life-long adventure. Reading her intriguing memoir, one is glad Phelps chose the unconventional path: after inheriting her uncle's Casa Cuseni with its terraced gardens and staggering views of Mt. Etna, she struggles to make ends meet, but instead of selling the estate, opens its doors to a steady stream of paying guests and visitors--many of them artists, writers, and intellectuals.

Inheriting an estate in Italy in 1947 isn't quite like winning the lottery, it turns out. In short sketches, Phelps reminisces about stepping into small-town Sicilian life, war-weary, speaking very little Italian, and even more scandalous, being unmarried. With her no-nonsense British humor, she recounts the typical conversation with men, young and old:
"Are you married?"
"No."
"When are you going to get married?"
"Chi lo sa--who knows?'"
And then, "Why aren't you married?"

Settling into daily life at Casa Cuseni, Phelps dons boots and digs into the garden, rolls up her sleeves and cleans the baroque carvings over the salon fireplace, and learns to manage the property and its full-time staff. As she points out in the book's conclusion, for more than 50 years now, house-related problems have kept her on her toes--those, and her amazingly devoted servant, cook, and even the local Mafia don, whom she all describes with more than a little condescension in a series of deft portraits. While Phelps's cynicism can be a bit hard to take when she's serving up her servants, she is, perhaps, at her best when telling stories about her famous houseguests: Bertrand Russell, Henry Faulkner, Tennessee Williams, even Roald Dahl. Some were charming, some were horrid. But the visitors came from 26 countries, with friends introducing their friends. Around the dining room table and in this volume Phelps has mixed people who in "normal life would be unlikely to meet." It is this Sicilian menagerie--anchored to a singular place and time, and viewed through a British prism--that makes Phelps's life story so worth the telling. --Kimberly Brown

From Publishers Weekly

In this charming memoir, Phelps recounts how she indirectly inherited a villa in Taormina shortly after the end of WWII. Her uncle, who had originally purchased the land and built the house, left no will, so the villa went to the author's aunt. Realizing that her aunt had no interest in the property, Phelps, who is British, headed to Sicily with the intent to sell but ended up as enchanted with the area and the property as her uncle had been. She turned the house into an inn in order to make enough money to maintain it, and later she received many famous guests, Roald Dahl among them. Phelps is clearly well integrated into Taormina after 50 years, and she lovingly and teasingly depicts her companions. Concetta, who has worked for the author for three decades, is a no-nonsense woman who initially insisted she couldn't serve as cook because she knew how to prepare only Sicilian food. Phelps, who was a social worker before moving to Italy, has a keen anthropological eye. Her portrait of a local Mafia don, who has no phone but instructs her simply to phone his village's main operator if she needs to reach him, manages to be both humorous and serious. Another chapter on the local police forcesAcarabinieri, the sanitary police, the financial police, etc.Acaptures Italy's bureaucracy beautifully. Since chapters are organized by topic, occasionally the date of certain events is unclear, but otherwise, this is a refreshing look at a place that so many have stereotyped and so few have known as well as Phelps. Illustrations. not seen by PW. (Sept.)
Copyright 1999 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 224 pages
  • Publisher: Carroll & Graf Publishers; First Edition edition (September 1999)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0786706562
  • ISBN-13: 978-0786706563
  • Product Dimensions: 8.8 x 6.1 x 1.1 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1.1 pounds
  • Average Customer Review: 3.1 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (25 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #3,181,961 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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25 Reviews
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Average Customer Review
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25 of 30 people found the following review helpful:
2.0 out of 5 stars Disappointing, September 5, 1999
By A Customer
This review is from: A House in Sicily (Paperback)
Having just read this book, I longed for it to have been written by her uncle Don Roberto, as the Sicilian people fondly called him. I don't believe Ms. Phelps has such a fond nickname for herself by the Sicilians, because her book clearly shows her disdain for these people. I was born in Sicily and am married to an English man, so I looked forward to this book, I was so appalled at Ms. Phelps' Anglocentric and haughty descriptions of the Sicilian people. She never learned anything from them, and remained a little provincial woman, even though her guests were wordly, and she travelled a bit when she was younger. Surely in her fifty years there she saw a beautiful woman who was sicilian with dark skin and dark eyes, I certainly never heard her once say so in her book, the only beauties were fair skinned and fair haired. It is a pity, that the outside world will learn so little of the true Sicilians from this book, how very generous and giving they really are, which Ms. Phelps mentions every so often, they gave her everthing, what did she ever give them I wonder?

Sincerely,

Antonina LiCastri-Boocock

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12 of 13 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars A House in Sicily, January 24, 2000
This review is from: A House in Sicily (Paperback)
I really enjoyed this book. It was a wonderful book, very easy to read. I just read it over the weekend. If what you are looking is a guide to Sicily this isn't it, but if you want to know something about that region and their way of life during the years the author writes about, this is your book.

I am always amaze when people like the author make complete changes in their lives, and start a new life somewhere other than their country of birth. I enjoy reading about her experience, and I want to find out more about Casa Cuseni. What I love about real life books is that the people that live in this crazy and beautiful world are 100 % better that any fictional character. The people that Ms Phelps talks about are wonderful characters that any fiction writer would love to have in their books. I have travel in Italy, but I was never interested in visiting Sicily. After reading this book, I want to go there.

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12 of 15 people found the following review helpful:
3.0 out of 5 stars Admiring in a restrained British manner, October 30, 2000
This review is from: A House in Sicily (Paperback)
Initially it didn't register why this book is distinctive in the expatriot relocation genre. However, about of a third of the into it one realizes that it is intuitively obvious. First, this isn't a popular culture ethnography designed to provide charming anecdotes. A "House in Sicily" is a memoir, and is distinctive as speaking in the voice of an earlier generation. It reflects values, priorities, and a code of behavior which clearly reflect an more formal, and more genteel time (even though a number of the anecdotes are from the sixties). The book challenges assumptions later generations might have about this era, because the writer, and those with whom she associated clearly had a progressive and opened minded perspective, despite a seemingly rigid sense of social proprieties.

This book isn't a biography; the writer establishes how this house in Sicily became her responsibility, and how events lead that responsibility to change her life. That being the first half, the remainder of the book consists of selected vignettes from her life describing some of the colorful and eccentric figures who, through word of mouth (among a cerebral set) were encouraged to visit her.

The writer speaks in a characteristically restrained, understated English manner. While she remains proudly, unrelentingly English she is very admiring of Sicilian culture which she represents as a distinctly different, yet dignified and admirable.

A quick, enjoyable read; I found myself surprised that it progressed so quickly and found myself wishing for more.

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First Sentence:
My strange Sicilian life had its roots at the turn of the century, but I was only born eleven years later. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
Casa Cuseni, Don Ciccio, Don Roberto, Collingwood Ingram, Don Carlo, Mary Ellen, New York, San Domenico, Madame Rosa, United States, Casa Cusem, Child Guidance, Henry Faulkner, Lord Russell, Reverend Mother, San Giorgio, Barnes Foundation, Black Sister, Don Bastianu, Donna Anna, Jocelyn Brooke
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