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on March 18, 2011
Just like a few other reviewers on here, I bought these for my under tank heaters on my two python tanks. They are very, very effective at regulating the temperatures accurately. I compare the temps on this product with my digital thermometers and they work great.

A few things some people would like to know:
- These are set it and forget it thermostats. You put in the maximum temp (i.e, 90 or 92) degrees and this thermostat will automatically kick on if the temp gets 2 degrees less (88 or 90 degrees respectively). This means you are not going to get too much variation in the warm spot hide which is a great thing but you CAN NOT change this variance. I don't see a real reason you need to though.
- The probe cables are perfect length and since they are designed for soil applications, they can be buried in substrate. They also have a suction cup if you need to monitor ambient air instead.
- TIP: Though some people say you should bury the probe and it should make have DIRECT contact with the UTH, I tried this out and I didn't like it. I am more concerned with the overall micro-climate in the hide or on the surface of the substrate so I just let it lay level with the substrate. That way, if the snake is colder than usual, they will coil in the hide and will give the thermostats a reading that is cooler than the actual temperature. This means the UTH will kick on a little longer than normal and warm the snake back up to a nice temperature.
- These thermostats are very heavy duty and can handle a large electrical load (1000 watts). Since most undertank heaters are 24 watts or less, you can definitely use this stat with multiple tank heaters. It has a three-prong connector on it and heavy-duty power cords/connectors.
- There isn't a reason you can't use this with visible light heaters but I would imagine it would be annoying to have the constant on/off. Use it with ceramic heaters or heat tamp instead. For the visible light heaters, use a dimmer or proportional thermostat. The same goes for incubators. Get a proportional thermostat for your incub.

PS. Gave it 4/5 stars because it's not a proportional thermostat, but for the money you know what you're getting! Definitely recommend!!!
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on February 3, 2010
Works like a charm.
Connect the Heat Mat monitor's power cord into the wall, then connect the seedling heat mat's power cord into the monitor.
To set the degrees is very easy. Hold down the button "SET" until the numbers are blinking. Then using the up and down arrows, set the desired temperature then press the "SET" button again to stop the blinking. Also press down the "UP" button for 6 seconds for readings in Fahrenheit or hold down the "DOWN" button for 6 seconds for readings in Celsius.
There is a little wire with a plastic white tip that hangs from the monitor.
Push the white part into the soil for temperature reading.(Once temperature is set, do not be alarmed when your heat mat reaches its maximum temperature you set it to then the Heat Mat monitor temperature will go up and down 3 degrees to prevent over heating)

This is very helpful for starting seeds.
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on November 14, 2012
I can't speak on how this would work with your seedlings... but for homebrew - Fantastic.
Saw this on Homebrew finds. Looked it over and had a bit of concern regarding the lowest setting being only 68F, but after considering that if I need to lager, I'm not going to need a heat source as I live in San Diego and temps here aren't likely to go below 40F in my garage. So it was whether or not this would work with my ales....

Most of my ale yeast like to ferment at around 70F. A few are below, but are still within Optimum Fermentation Temperature at the lowest setting of 68F. So this is perfect for the job. There are many dual output controllers, that will work with both a cooling and heat source. That's likely a better setup, if I didn't already have the controller for my freezer (which I use as a fridge with a Johnsons control keeping temps above freezing). But since I only needed heat control, this fit the bill.

Setup is about as easy as can be. Simply plug into a wall socket. Plug in your heat source into the controller. I'm using a Zoo Med ReptiTherm® Under Tank Heater, Medium to provide heat. Drop the temp probe into where you need to keep the temperature controlled, and set the desired temp by holding the temp button until it flashes. You can set the temperature to anything between 68 and 108, in whole number values. The swing in the cycle seems to be about 1-2 degrees above and below the set temperature. So for me, it will allow the mat to stay on until 70.5F when set at 70F. It looks to turn on at about 68.5F when set at the same 70F setting.

Overall, happy with the purchase and can recommend for homebrewers.
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on September 21, 2012
I now have 3 of these. I use them for controlling Flexwatt heat tape on snake cages. They are cheaper than any "animal oriented" thermostats I have found and work better, in my opinion, than Repti therm. I love the digital readout and the easy installation. Granted they are an on off type and are slightly less accurate than a Vivarium Electronics (VE)...but those units run $100-$150 and still have a gradient of +- 1 degree. This unit seems to fluctuate +- 4 degrees. Not good for an incubator...but definitely good for racks or stackable cages. I'll be ordering more once I get more cages.
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on December 20, 2010
I've used quite a few thermostats in my day, to include those specific for snakes that come from Big Apple Herps, etc. But this little digital thermostat is unbeatable for the price and what it does. I've calibrated it with two different, stand alone thermometers and it's been within 1.5 degrees at all times, and usually closer. For basic UTH use I haven't seen one yet that can match it for the price. I've already ordered 2 more and I've only been using them a short while. The true test will be in how long it holds up...if it does this is a secret ZooMed, Big Apple, Zilla, etc. don't want you to know about or else they will have to re-market some of their thermostats at this price range! It's designed for fish tanks but works great in a dry environment as well. I use it with two different UTHs and it handles both well.

I only keep Eastern and Florida Kings now (with an occasional stray herp. I flip from a development site until I can get it a home) so it's range of function from 68 to 108 degrees is just right for my collection; the unit will shut off automatically if the heat gets about 108 degrees. Unless you get a defective unit this is pretty much idiot-proof.

Again, great product for a great price if it fits your needs.
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on October 30, 2007
I am using this mat to keep a constant temperature on my Kombucha brew. Using a standard heating pad, this theromstat does the job. I'm very pleased with it. I can keep the temperature at 79 degrees and not have to have a heating pad constantly on. Keep the suction cup clean so it doesn't pop off the glass and a thermometer handy to monitor the temperature.
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on April 3, 2013
Nothing more to say than this is a great product. Not only does it work, and by work I mean constantly regulating the UTH pad for my leopard geckos. If its getting too hot, it shuts off and cools down. If it gets too cool, it clicks on and heats back up to the set temp you program into it with a simple click of a button.

The icing on the cake is it looks really cool. I've mounted it on my wall in between by gecko tanks, and I've got so many compliments in just a couple days of owning it. The constantly changing lit up temperature numbers makes this so much better than a cheap rheostat.

I was so impressed and pleased with this product that I've already ordered a second for my other tank and will have it arriving tomorrow. All of my gecko's I know are now very safe, happy, and always warm at a good safe temp.

I have pics up I'm going to upload of my setup with this product. Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats
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on January 2, 2014
I have used Hydrofarm seedling heat mats, thermostats, and lighting systems for years now and can attest to overwhelming success these have afforded me in getting my garden plants started in late winter.

This thermostat is a perfect accessory to help keep your plants at the proper temperature. Depending on where you set up your seed starting equipment, you may find this thermostat indispensable. Seed heat mats are designed to keep your seed tray about 10-20 degrees above ambient temperature. If you keep yours indoors in a 65-70 degree environment like I do, you might consider getting this thermostat to keep your young plants from getting too hot.

This thermostat is easy to perform the initial set up on, then very easy to make adjustments to if needed. It has an integrated probe for placement into the soil so that a direct reading can be taken and regulated accordingly.

Heat mats and proper lighting are the key to consistent and prolific germination of seeds started in late winter to be ready for springtime planting.

Here's the setup I've used for the past few years:
-Park Seed Park's Double Bio Dome with 80 Jumbo Cells. I actually use 2-18 Jumbo Cell for a total of 36 plants. There are several sizes of the Bio-Dome system. I have the DOUBLE Bio-Dome which allows for two seed starting cells (Purchased from Park Seed)
-Hydrofarm MT10008 20-by-20-Inch Seedling Heat Mat (Purchased from Amazon)
-Hydrofarm FLT24 2-ft/ 4-Tube T5 Commercial System with Bulbs (Purchased from Amazon)
-Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats (Purchased from Amazon)
-Style Selections 36-in H x 24-in W x 18-in D 3-Tier Steel Freestanding Shelving Unit (Purchased from Lowe's)

The modular, adjustable wire shelving unit gives me the foundation for my indoor winter seed-starting setup. The shelves are adjustable so that I can hang the grow light on the underside of the top shelf, then adjust the middle shelf so that the top of the Bio Dome is about 6-8 inches from the light. This allows for enough room to remove the top of the Bio Dome in the event I need to access the plants for watering, fertilizing, etc. The bottom shelf is great for storing my remaining planting supplies.

The light is almost the same size as the Double Bio-Dome and provides 100% light coverage necessary for young plants to thrive. A few years back, I tried to use a light that was only 2 bulbs and half the size of the one I currently use. You could tell that the young plants would angle toward the light hanging in the middle, and those on the outer edges didn't grow as quickly and tall as those in the middle. Take it from someone who spent $25 - $50 each year over the course of several years trying to find a light that would work well with my seed starting system. I knew about the Hydrofarm light early on, but wasn't too eager to purchase it due to it's higher cost. I wish I would have gotten it first because I would have saved money in the long run considering the poor-performing lights I purchased in years prior to getting the one listed above.

The Park Seed Bio Dome is an extraordinary seed-starting system that allows your plants to grow quite large without root binding problems found in other tray-type seed starting setups. Park uses the styrofoam cell matrix with replaceable organic bio-sponges in which the seeds are planted.

I regulate the temperature of the seed heat mat with the Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat set at between 85-90 degrees. This thermostat has a temperature probe you can insert into one of the organic bio-sponges to obtain a direct soil reading. I route the probe through one of the vent holes in the lid of the Bio-Dome.

In order to capture the most heat from the heat mat, while allowing the thermostat to regulate the temperature of the mat, I first take a folded beach towel and place it on the middle shelving rack. I then set the heat mat on top of the towel, then place the Bio-Dome on top of the heat mat. This allows me to recover most of the heat that would otherwise radiate from the exposed, bottom side of the heat mat.

Watering with the Bio-Dome setup is easy and, depending on how you have the vents adjusted in the lid, performed infrequently at best due to the efficiency of water vapor recovery of the Bio-Dome system.

I typically start tomato and pepper plants in mid-February so that they are ready for planting by the first week of May. You may want to check online for your indoor planting and outdoor transplanting dates depending on your region and climate.

I hope my sharing with you what has worked quite well for me will help you in your seed-starting endeavors!
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on December 24, 2013
It was working great until the warranty ran out... now it's reading temperatures way higher than it actually is so the heating unit won't come on. I unplugged and re-plugged it in several times and now it's working. I'm guessing the probe is broken. It's a great product if it actually worked. Since there's not a lot of options, I will probably have to buy a replacement which means there's no leverage or incentive for this company to make a more reliable product. I hate rewarding companies who treat acceptable failures as a part of doing business. I will buy a replacement, but would never endorse this to anyone else.
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I am using this controller to control a large seedling mat as well as a 40 watt lightbulb. I have a 20 cubic foot table top greenhouse in my garage, and this setup serves to keep the seedlings warm.

1. It has a 120V AC plug for the heater, so you can not only use the hydrofarm mats, but also other heating devices-like the light bulb

2. Looks "professional"

3. Has an external temperature probe, meaning the thermostat can be mounted outside of a greenhouse. I didn't measure it, but I would guess it has about a 5 or 6 foot long cord.

4. The adjustment dial is in degrees, so no guessing about what cool, warm, hot, etc might mean.

5. Temperature seems reasonably well regulated

6. LED's for both power and heat


1. No temperature readout. An LCD reading of what the temp probe is measuring would be nice

2. It is a little bit tricky to mount neatly, since the power cord, temperature probes and outlet plugs are all along the bottom of the unit. You can't really panel-mount it unless you can let the cords hang over the edge.

3. The suction cup probe is a bit problematic. I would have prefered a soil probe. I ended up putting small, sealed jar of water (with a couple drops of bleach) on the mat and attaching the temperature probe to that.

Summary- I am happy with it. It does a nice job of controlling the heating of my tabletop greenhouse.
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