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Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Techniqueby Will Gadd; photos by Roger Chayer"Mixed climbing is my favorite discipline. It's the most fun because it has the fewest rules-sort of like professional wrestling compared to boxing." So says Will Gadd, as profiled in Fifty Favorite Climbs. In Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique, the champion ice climber presents the same techniques and veteran wisdom he imparts to those who attend his annual clinics. These include step-by-step instructions for the swing (ice axe), the kick (footwork), and putting it all together (tracking); how to "read" ice to select your line and follow it safely; and drytool techniques for mixed climbing. Training exercises and inspirational stories complete this seminal guide. Will Gadd won every major ice competition in the world in 1998 and 1999, as well as the 2000 Ice World Cup. A resident of Canmore, Alberta, he has written for Climbing and Rock & Ice, among other publications. Roger Chayer's photos have appeared in Rock & Ice, Climbing, Gripped, Equinox, and the Alpine Club of Canada Journal. He lives in Calgary, Alberta. Product Code: 769XPages: 192ISBN: 978-0-89886-769-5Binding Information: PaperbackPublisher: The Mountaineers BooksPublication date: 10/1/2003
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
11 of 12 people found the following review helpful:
3.0 out of 5 stars
Good material, presentation problematic,
By
This review is from: Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) (Paperback)
This is one of the latest guides on ice climbing. It therefore covers the most modern techniques, is up to date with equipment, and has great color photos. Written by Will Gadd it definitely has the flair of an individual author, reads more like a pro's guide than a technical reference. The type of material covered and order is great. However, the editing of this guide is severely lacking. It suffers from incorrect captions, bad figure references, transposed terms (convex vs concave) and complex procedures described in steps that tend to get you lost in confusion rather than clarify.
If you're an already accomplished ice climber, there will be a few "take home" concepts ("tracking"/cycling vertical progression, and his personal take on mix climbing techniques for instance). A beginner will benefit more from this guide (after reading twice to work around the editing problems). A second edition, edited properly, will be a top-notch guide on this sport.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Great for Beginner / Intermediates,
By Arch Stanton (Bondurant, WY USA) - See all my reviews
This review is from: Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) (Paperback)
Written in thoughtful and lively fashion, Gadd distills his 20 years of collected wisdom into 230 pages. Discussions on tools, technique, nutrition, training are all useful - this is a book for the aspiring ice warrior as well as the climber with a few seasons under his / her belt. The constant Red Bull pimping gets a bit distracting but a guy has to pay the bills, afterall. Highly recommended.
1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
The best book out on ice and mixed climbing!,
By
This review is from: Ice & Mixed Climbing: Modern Technique (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) (Paperback)
Will Gadd is the man! This guy has been there and done that and is giving you all the beta. The book is well written, has good stories and great pictures. I think i have rear every book on ice climbing there is (even the Chouinard book). if you only read one book on climbing ice this is it. This is also the only book that really talked about serious mixed climbing at all. I can't recommend this enough. If you currently lead WI5 and climb M8 then i guess you might not need this, but if your searching the internet for ice climbing books then you obviously should buy this one.
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