This is Alton Brown's third major culinary book, and it is, I believe, the best of the three. Alton successfully apples his scientific approach to baking, but he has done the ultimate scientific task of illuminating great explanations of baking techniques by classifying them by mixing method. Alton has compounded this insight with a novel device in the design of his book that prints the `master recipe' for the eight mixing methods on flyleaves that can be folded over pages to appear beside the details of the individual recipes. Many major cookbook writers, most notably Julia Child, have employed the `master recipe' device to good effect. So, this device is not totally new, but the flyleaf I have simply never seen in any other cookbook, so I give full credit to Alton and his Stewart Tabori & Chang publishers for creating something new under the culinary sun.
Just as the master recipe technique is not new, the proper classification of baking techniques is also not entirely new. Good writers on baking have been grouping quick breads with pastry crusts and cheesecake with custard pies for a generation. What Alton has done is similar to Mendeleev's achievement in building the periodic table of the elements. Before Mendeleev, chemists were all very familiar with families of elements corresponding to horizontal and vertical clusters in the full table. It was obvious that fluorine, chlorine, bromine, and iodine had a lot in common. Mendeleev gave us the organization that brought out all those similarities. This was a stepping stone to the early atomic theories which identified electron rings that went on to explain periodic table behavior. This explanation of why different mixing methods give different end products is at the heart of Brown's contribution to the literature on baking. None of this is new. Great baking writers such as Flo Braker, Nick Malgieri, Sheri Yard, Peter Reinhart, Joe and Gayle Ortiz, and Shirley Corriher have been writing about this stuff for years. Alton does the true scientist's job of tying it all together.
I am just a bit suspicious of the fact that there is no bibliography and there are no acknowledgments to baking writers in the book, as I sense a strong family resemblance between Alton's book and Sherry Yard's recent excellent book `The Secrets of Baking'. The difference is that Sherry is a world class baker who happens to have a knack for explaining. Alton is a journeyman baker who has a genius for classification. If science and AB's jabbering about using a food processor to sift flour doesn't interest you, you can do much worse than to get Yard's work.
The eight mixing methods which are the heart of the book are for muffins (soft chemically leavened quickbreads), biscuits (scones, grunts, dumplings, crackers, streusel), pie crusts (a variation on the biscuit method), creaming (cakes, cookies, brownies, bran muffins), straight dough (yeast breads, including pizza, brioche, focaccia, and all those other things the French and Italians do so well), egg foam (meringues, souffles, angel food cake), custards (quiches, caramels, zabaglione, mousse, cheesecake), and miscellaneous (mostly pate a choux). The high point in all these chapters for me is the exercise that shows the underlying similarity between pizza dough and brioche. On the surface, they seem quite different, but by a series of demonstrations, AB shows how they really use the same basic method and differ only by the change of a few major ingredients such as butter, eggs, and milk.
In practical terms, the most valuable part of the book is the excellent illustrations of really great techniques, done with well-chosen words and very effective line drawings. I have seen AB do his rolling a pie crust in a plastic bag trick and the next procedure of fitting a crust to a 9 inch pie tin, but I have never had the guts to try it using nothing but my memory of a scene from `Good Eats'. Seeing it all in black and white and color gives me the courage to try it now.
Alton is a great exponent of both metric measurements and of weighing in place of volumetric measurements. I cannot agree with him more completely. In spite of being a klutz around most things manual, I am a very good novice baker because I was a professional chemist and can sling kilograms and milliliters with the best of them, and, I have great practical experience with making accurate measurements. So, if you are unfamiliar with metric measurements and weights, I can testify to their efficacy. Once you get used to them, they are really easier and give a greater chance of good results.
I was also pleasantly surprised to see recipe amounts written in the form of formulas, as a professional baker may use. If you are familiar with Joe Ortiz' `The Village Baker' or Peter Reinhart's `Crust & Crumb', these should be very familiar to you. The best part of these recipes is they give all major components measured by volume and both metric and English weights.
I must say that many people will not bother to read this book unless I assure you that all of AB's classic humor is here to be enjoyed. This mix of self-deprecation, scorning ignorance, and obscure pop culture references is eminently entertaining. I challenge you to find the rather cleverly hidden reference to the movie `Blade Runner' hidden among the Star Wars references and Waffle Iron recommendations.
If I were to take issue with anything in the book, it would be the analogy between baking and architecture and the elevation of classification as the ultimate role of science. Baking in theory is much more like chemistry than it is like taxonomy and baking in practice is much more like metallurgy than like architecture.
Otherwise, this book is a hoot I will check out Nick Malgieri or Flo Brakker for a new baking recipe, but I wouldn't miss this book for the world to help me make sense of it all.