Customer Reviews

The Innocents Abroad (Penguin Classics)

5 star:		(43)
4 star:		(11)
3 star:		(4)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(4)

 

 

Mark Twain is the Lincoln of our literature. Sam Clemens (1835-1910) wrote Huckleberry Finn in 1885 which has been acclaimed as our greatest American novel. Lesser known are his wonderful travelogues: "Roughing It' "Following the Equator"; "Life on the Mississippi and "The Innocents Abroad" published in 1869. This book is worth reading even 140 years after its publication. Twain style is a joy to read for he was a born storyteller and communicates his thoughts well on the page.
Twain was a reporter who joined the six month expedition to Europe and the Middle East on board the steamer "Quaker City." The pleasure tour had
been organized by the famous pastor Henry Ward Beecher (sibling of Harriet Ward Beecher) and Civil War General William Tecumseh Sherman. Neither of these notable made the trip citing other obligations.
Twain roomed with a young man from Elmira New York. He would later visit Elmira and meet his friend's sister Olivia. She would become his wife and the mother of the couple's three daughters.
The Innocents Abroad is a long book of 400,000 words covering over 500 densely written pages. Twain takes a sardonic, humorous view of European art as he guides us through the Louvre, Florence Italy and Rome. We visit London, Paris and meet with Czar Alexander II in the Crimea. Twain had a keen reporter's eye and a humorist's ability to paint word pictures of his fellow passengers,tour guides and natives of the fascinating cities and countries he visited on a busy itinerary.
As a Presbyterian pastor I found the most interesting part of the book dealt with Twain's tour of Syria, Lebanon, Turkey, Greece and Israel. He was upset by the filth, disease and cruelty he saw in the land of Moses and Jesus Christ. Despite all his asides and digressions the observant reader can gain a good picture of what these places were like in 1869. Twain was an agnostic but knew his Bible.
Mark Twain was our greatest author. In this fine book you will get to know this fascinating man better as he shares his globe trotting journey with his readers.

Ok, maybe that is a minor overstatement, but this is one hilarous book, to be read by people who have travelled, who plan to travel, and generally, people who want to laugh. A lot.

The book is also surprising for its timeless points about the journeying of certain upper white, middle class people going on a grand tour of Europe. I frequently had to remind myself that it was written in 1869 because his observations and the behavior of his shipmates is so close to the way people I studied abroad with acted-only a few years ago.

Twain also puts those "cosmopolitan" people who claim to have traveled, but don't know anything about any place they have been but and just like to lord it over everyone else that they have "travelled" and you have not.

Reading this book is like listening to a very wise, old man tell you about his adventures. Its not like a book, more like one long conversation. Twain takes nothing seriously-not himself, his fellow travelers or the places they visit. The words are another adventure-sometimes, you know he is setting you up for something, other times he is serious for a while, then you end up in the middle of a joke.

I know this is against the rules, but the other posters who don't like this book-don't be so serious and p.c. all the time. Twain is making humorous observations, at a time when a different standard was acceptable. Not to mention, he does manage to get a few zingers in there about what people are willing to accept and what they do not.

You will laugh yourself silly and want to book a trip-not to Europe, just to anywhere, after reading this book.

The Innocents Abroad covers the travels of the steamer Quaker City and its cargo of American tourists headed on a pilgrimage to the holy land. One thing that you notice right off the bat is that Americans haven't really changed since Twain's time. We still make the same remarks and complain about the same things and are prone to the same bad habits as then.

The funniest parts of this book is when Twain is talking about the paintings of the old masters or about the relics of Europe's churches. Twain likes to give his honest opinion in saying that he enjoys newer painting more than the old faded and cracked paintings of the old masters, and he is sure to torture any tour guide that gets within his grip with the fact. As for the relics, Twain notes that there are enough pieces of the true cross to make several copies over. The skeptic in Twain comes out and he points out everything that he thinks is false or a sham.

The reason that I say this isn't Twain's best is that this was written by a young Twain as a newspaper writer, so in a sense he he writing to appeal to a larger crowd. He takes every opportunity to criticize the people and races that he encounters on his travels. To the modern reader, some of this criticism will read like racial stereotyping, so at times it may be uncomfortable for the modern reader to read. The more tolerant Twain that we often hear quoted doesn't develop until later in his career.

Cliches aside, retrieving the outlook of mid-19th Century isn't easy. Having successfully concluded the upheaval of the War Between the States, the people of the USA, while bruised, felt confident. Their sense of righteousness was enhanced - they'd quelled a rebellion and freed slaves. Some took that attitude to other lands. The 1867 SS Quaker City excursion to Europe and the "Holy Land" was but one of those forays. It was special in that it carried one of the more discerning observers the United States had produced - Sam Clemens of Hannibal, Missouri and points West. He was to post letters to the San Francisco newspaper "Daily Alta California" describing the journey. The trip and the account opened Clemens' eyes and those of his readers over numerous legends.

In Clemens' baggage was a strong religious sense imparted by his mother, Jane. This cargo was balanced by Twain's more worldly experience on the Mississippi and his life in the mining communities in the West. When he crossed the gangplank to board the steamer, his gaze was sceptical and his pen ascerbic. His portrayal of the Quaker City's passengers began as they traversed the Atlantic, but it is his depiction of "foreigners" in their homelands that both shocks and enlightens. Starting with the Azores stopover, Clemens' observations of the islands are a tribute to their charms. Of the people, however, he has little positive to impart. They are dirty, noisy, conniving and devious. In general, they're "not American".

The use of the "innocents" is exemplified by Twain's description of contact with the Europeans. Educated in the minimal language training of the day, the travellers struggled to impart their wishes in French shops and restaurants. Twain seems to lay responsibility for this on the French "failure to understand their own language", but his description of the exchanges makes it clear where the problem lay. There was another side to this coin, however. Europeans were caught up in their own affairs. The United States was a remote and unknown element to them - "they'd had a war with somebody recently". Twain notes his shipmates were even then tinged with the arrogance that would fully blossom later. Respect for "tradition" had a variety of expressions in the "Quaker City" passengers. Twain depicts them all with delightful detachment.

As the ship made landfall in Mediterranean ports, Clemens and his comrades visit the "standard" tourist haunts. Paris is a must, Genoa is a treat, Rome is a maze of cathedrals and art galleries. Quickly disenchanted with "guides" he renames them all "Ferguson" and rebukes them at every opportunity. Michaelangelo seems so pervasive in Rome that the Pilgrims ask if Greek or Egyptian artefacts are his work - to the consternation of the "Ferguson" of the day. Twain's flexibility and ability to adapt to events leads some of the "innocents" to take the train from Rome to Naples - a city under quarantine. While the "Quaker City" lies still in the harbour, Twain and his companions tour the city and visit Vesuvius. A similar ploy works in Greece.

It is in the "Holy Land" that Clemens' descriptive powers and distrust of "authorities" flowers most brilliantly. Like many of his fellow passengers, he's been subjected to many tales from "Scripture" and a spate of earlier travel writers in Palestine. Unable to criticise the Bible outright, he lets the words speak for themselves, allowing logic and common sense to question dogma. The effusive travel writers, who had insisted Palestine was a "paradise" are brought out in contrast with Twain's observations of the barren desolation that was the Levant. He is scathing in his criticism of people who fabricate conditions there in order to sell their books. His veracity, of course, nearly had the opposite effect. "The Innocents Abroad" manuscript was originally rejected by Twain's publisher.

Sam Clemens' reputation was "made" with this book. It touched on many aspects of how people in the United States viewed themselves and the world. The subtle, but incisive, comments on tradition and legend were seeds finding fertile ground in a dynamic nation setting the practical foremost. "Innocents" was a challenge to dogmas and a paean to the sense of "realism" that permeated the post-Civil War era. The "Romantic" Era, still evident in mid-19th Century in the earlier accounts of Palestine, would be whisked aside. "Innocents" would be instrumental in that sweeping it away. [stephen a. haines - Ottawa, Canada]

This book is funny. Sometimes, this is funny/cruel, as in his attempt to pay the Egyptian kid to climb pyramids until it kills him. Pretty much every nationality in Europe is attacked. Maybe this jumps out at you when he gets to the Holy Land, but it's there all along.

I found Twain's discussion of Lake Como to be the most troubling. Here, in comparing it to Lake Tahoe, he gets diverted into what can only be called a racist tirade against the Washoe Indians of Nevada.

Melville (in The Confidence Man) has a long chapter on Indian-hating, but he writes as an observer, not a practitioner. Twain is more partisan. There is an anti-Catholic tinge as well; but then, anti-Catholic political parties (such as the 'Know Nothings') were also a feature of pre-civil war America.

I do believe that this is one of the finest books on tourism one can read. Twain is a keen observer of Old World culture, which he opposes to our American adaptation. Admiration can lead to whitewashing if some of Twain's social pathologies are left unexamined.

The book is as anti-Indian as anti-Arab, as anti-Mormon as anti-Catholic. It remains a very funny book; but I wouldn't give it to a teenager to read without a precautionary warning.

This book is amazing! Join the Quaker City Cruise voyagers and their meandering through Europe and the Holy Land. Mark Twain shows the haughty characteristics of American travellers that still thrive today.
Enticing imagery takes you to the turbulent Europe of 1867. Mark Twain satirizes everything under the sun from travel guides and long dead lovers to Michelangelo and the Old Masters to the Rennaissance and Venice to Israel and the Catholic Church. His bitter sarcasm and witticisms left me laughing out loud. Next to Douglas Adam's Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, this is the funniest book I have ever read. I can't think of any downsides to this amazing work by the greatest humorist that ever blessed the English language. Exceptional!
READ IT!

Between June and November 1867, Mark Twain was a participant in an excursion tour of the Mediterranean area of Europe, Asia, and Africa. This book is basically an account of that trip, based on letters he had written for (mainly) the "San Francisco Alta California" during the trip (the paper thus paid for the trip). It's an interesting blend of fact and fiction.

Sailing aboard the "Quaker City" steamship, the journey begins in New York. First stop is the Azores and then Gibraltar, where Twain hears the legend of the Queen's Chair. A short side trip to Tangier gives him his first exotic tastes - right out of the Arabian Nights. The Fourth of July finds him at Marseilles, from which he travels by train to Paris (where he gets a painful shave in addition to visiting the Louvre, Notre Dame, and a theatre that has cancan dancers). He spends a day at Versailles before returning to Marseilles.

The ship is now off to Italy, where Twain spends the next month visiting Genoa, Milan (he tours the cathedral and its sculptures and La Scala), Lake Como, Venice (a big disappointment), Florence, Rome (where he spends a lot of time viewing the Vatican), and finally Naples (which he thought filthy). Greece was their next stop, then Constantinople, where he comments on the slave market there. They sail to Odessa, which really offers no sightseeing opportunities, a welcome respite after Italy.

Traveling then to Asia he visits Smyrna and Ephesus, and then moves on to the Holy Land. In Damascus Twain becomes ill for a day, but continues on to Palestine and the Sea of Galilee (another disappointment). At Nazareth he imagines it hasn't changed since the time of Jesus. Jerusalem seems a very small city to him; it is here that Twain weeps at the grave of Adam, a "blood relation." A week or so later he continues to Jaffa overland where he meets the "Quaker City" and sails to Egypt. He goes to the pyramids and the sphynx, which impresses him greatly. The ship sails from Alexandria for home in early October, making a few stops along the way (one lengthy one in Spain, which Twain found delightful). They stop at Bermuda (most enjoyable to Twain) and land in New York in mid-November.

Twain has a keen traveler's eye, though his humor would sharpen with time. Only his second book after the Jumping Frog sketches, he hadn't yet mastered the sharp satirical observations that graced later books (ROUGHING IT, for example, which is quite a bit funnier). But certain "themes" were already forming - his poking fun at religion, for instance: he observes that the relic of Jesus' Crown of Thorns at the cathedral in Milan is not as handsome as the one at Notre Dame. When he compares things seen on his trip with things back in America (something he doesn't do enough) he can be humorous: he compares the canals of Venice with a flooded river town along the Mississippi - neither which is very appealing in his view. He is always interesting, however, and the book is a joy to read.

This book, written over 130 years ago, still captures the essense of a European or Middle East trip. The same tour guide rip-offs, ancient hatreds, true pieces of the cross etc. Twain describes the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as a place where armed guards have to separate the various sects so that the followers of the Prince of Peace don't murder each other. He compares the Sea of Galilee unfavorabby to Lake Tahoe, and he is right. His at time narrow minded American boorishness comes off as charming because he doesn't take himself or anything else seriously. Throw out Lonely Planet and Michelin. This is a must read before your next trip.

As the United States was recovering from the devastating effects of the Civil War, a group of "pilgrims" (as Twain calls them) boarded a steamer for an extended five month picnic to Europe and the Holy Land. His passage was paid, about $1250, by a newspaper in California in return for a series of what turned out to be 50 letters documenting this tourist experience. In the process, he got a lot of mileage out of caricaturizing his inner circle amongst the some 65 pilgrims, making them famous...and the book made from the letters made him famous.

Although his humor and irony is not as concentrated as that in "Huckleberry Finn" and later books, the suggestion of great literature is present. "Innocents" is rampant with characteristic understatement. In a day before political correctness, he notes, "The people of those foreign countries are very, very ignorant...in Paris they just simply opened their eyes and stared when we spoke to them in French! We never did succeed in making those idiots understand their own language."

In Tiberius, he noted that the women wore their coins of dowry on their headdresses: "Most of these maidens were not wealthy, but some have been kindly dealt with by fortune. I saw heiresses there, worth, in their own right, - worth, well, I suppose I might venture to say as much as nine dollars and a half. But such cases are rare. When you come across one of these, she naturally puts on airs."

He does not sugar-coat his view of the middle east and holy land - a thinly populated barren wasteland whose religion handicapped them then as now. During a trip to Jordan over roads supposedly subject to raids by roving Bedouins, he wrote, "I think we must all have determined upon the same line of tactics, for it did seem as if we never would get to Jerico. I had a notoriously slow horse; but somehow I could not keep him in the rear to save my neck. He was forever turning up in the lead. In such cases I trembled a little, and got down to fix my saddle. But it was not of any use. The others all got down to fix their saddles, too. I never saw such a time with saddles. It was the first time any of them had got out of order in three weeks, and now they had all broken down at once. I tried walking for exercise - I had not had enough in Jerusalem, searching for holy places. But it was a failure. The whole mob were suffering for exercise, and it was not fifteen minutes till they were all on foot, and I had the lead again...We were moping along down through this dreadful place, every man in the rear. Our guards, two gorgeous young Arab sheiks, with cargoes of swords, guns, pistols, and daggers on board, were loafing ahead. 'Bedouins!' Every man shrunk up and disappeared in his clothes like a mud-turtle. My first impulse was to dash forward and destroy the Bedouins. My second was to dash to the rear to see if there were any coming in that direction. I acted on the latter impulse. So did all the others. If any Bedouins had approached us then from that point of the compass, they would have paid dearly for their rashness."

Delightful in every respect, this is still a chronicle of travel, and readers who have experienced any of the myriad of locations will be more consistently entertained. Astute readers may observe evidence of the history and experiences gained on this trip used frequently in Twain's subsequent writings.

His more acclaimed "Roughing It" is a duplication of his travelogue efforts, but in the more familiar United States. Interesting (in "Innocents") is his positive view of stage coach travel in the US in comparison to train travel by steam engine in Europe. Can you imagine in today's world enjoying a thousand-mile trip over rut-filled excuses for roads behind a team of horses?

Anyway, this is a great intro to the early Mark Twain - Five well-deserved stars!

In Innocents Abroad, Twain joins a passenger excursion to Europe and the mideast. Along the way, he and his fellow excursionists visit the Azores, Gibraltar, Paris, Venice, Istanbul, Damascus, Cairo and a host of places in between. Twain's acerbic wit is on full display as he offers up what are occasionally laugh-out-loud critiques of the places and people he encounters. Even his fellow passengers receive a ribbing, for which they often deserve, as they "chip" their way through the mideast removing souvenir pieces of religiously historic architecture. Innocents Abroad is not for the easily offended. This is a pre-PC view of the world which, properly judged for it's age, is highly entertaining.

The second book of this volume is Roughing It. Here, Twain takes us on a sojourn to the American west in the company of his older brother. Roughing It is possibly the best contemporaneous account of life in America's 19th century western expanse and beyond. From stagecoach travel to silver mining, exploration and discovery to regional ecomonics, lifestyle, and lawlessness, Twain provides the reader a humorous look at the many facets of Manifest Destiny.

As always, Library of America is a splendid publisher with an quality product priced attractively. I recommend this volume wholeheartedly.

NOTE: This review is for the Library of America volume containing both Innocents Abroad and Roughing It by Mark Twain.