This DVD on getting better results from your Nikon D80 is a good source of information and useful pointers and tips. As is pointed out in the video, the manual tells you how the camera operates, not how you should use it. What I have to say next should not be taken to mean that this video isn't useful, only that it could be better, and that not everything it passes on should be accepted without thought.
The first thing I noticed was that when the camera is not on the speaker the sound quality changes - this was disconcerting until I got used to it. In any case, it seems unnecessary.
It is stated that the flash indicator in the view finder tells you if the built-in flash is ready. No reference is made to the possibility of an external flash. They could just as easily have said that the indicator tells you when the flash is ready, rather than "the built-in flash."
The assertion is made that [r06] in the view finder tells you the number of exposures that can be taken in continuous shooting mode (for your picture size and quality settings). This is grossly wrong, it tells you the remaining buffer capacity. Since the buffer is simultaneously being filled and emptied while you are shooting you can certainly take more than, say, six or nine pictures before the camera needs to slow down.
In chapter 12, it is stated that you need to shoot at least as fast as the reciprocal of the focal length of the lens when holding the camera in your hands. This is a D80 with a "DX" sensor that's only two thirds the size of a 35mm frame. It would, therefore, be advisable to shoot 1.5 times faster than the rule used for film cameras. For example, with a 100mm lens you might try 1/150 sec or faster, not 1/100. The warning in the video, however, that the rule starts to break down at 300mm and longer seems to be valuable information. The suggestion that when a tripod is used you should use the self timer or custom setting 31 to impose a delay after pushing the shutter release seems necessary only for certain shutter speeds, and no mention was made about Nikon's nifty little IR remote shutter release (it works great over a considerable distance).
In chapter 14, it is stated that the ISO button can be pressed and the command dial rotated to change the ISO setting. This only works for the four manual shooting programs, a critical fact not mentioned. For the preprogrammed modes, ISO can be controlled only from the menu system.
In chapter 15, it was stated that "RAW images store 12 bits of data for each pixel instead of 8 bits for JPEG," and, "this may be most important for high contrast images." In the first place, the difference is between 12 and 8 bits per color channel for each pixel (i.e. 36 and 24 bits per pixel), and this can be important in low contrast images where posterization might be evident. The general rule involved is that if you wind up doing any major adjustments to brightness, contrast, gamma, etc. you may need those extra bits of data.
In chapter 16, when showing examples of the rule of thirds, it seems that one of the example images was replaced by solid black background with superimposed white lines. Also, in talking about where to place the horizon in an image, the rule is given - "Never allow the horizon line to cross the exact center." OK, in general, but if you are using a wide angle lens tilting the camera can introduce very noticeable distortion. You just might want to keep the camera back vertical and crop the image in your computer. Cropping is a lot easier than correcting for distortion. Later in this chapter, there is a discussion of lens selection (concerning focal length) in relation to the geometry of a subject to the background. The specific example is for portraiture, but without a warning that a short focal length lens can result in the camera being brought too close to the subject with very unflattering distortion of facial features. Also, since many users will consider taking pictures of people to be a major use of their D80, I would have expected a word about softening the focus.
In chapter 17, the discussion about color temperature will not make a student of physics happy. "degrees Kelvin" and "degrees centigrade" are not the same, and the concept of color temperature is not tied to the element carbon. There are a few other gaffes concerning color temperature, but I'll just add that the discussion on selecting white balance and fine tuning it only applies to the four manual shooting modes. The failure to mention this could lead the unsuspecting into a very frustrating experience. (See next paragraph.)
Early in the video, it is asserted that the "Auto" mode will produce average results, and that the other preprogrammed modes will result in improvement, but still near to average results. Too bad they didn't come right out and say that all of the discussion and instruction to follow was geared to the use of the four manual modes only.
To end this, let me add that chapter 20 on exposure metering seemed very well done and useful.