`Italian Slow and Savory' is subtitled `A Cookbook by Joyce Goldstein' almost as if Joyce Goldstein were an easily recognized brand name on the level of Wolfgang Puck or Emeril Lagasse. Joyce is a very successful cookbook author and I have already given the highest ratings to two of her earlier books, `Saffron Shores' dealing with Shepardim cooking and `Mediterranean Shores', covering all the cuisines of the Mediterranean. Thus, Goldstein is well established in the community of writers on Mediterranean food lead by Paula Wolfert, Claudia Roden, Nancy Harmon Jenkins, Clifford Wright, and others. What Goldstein aims at doing here is combining the themes of Paula Wolfert's most recent book, `Slow Mediterranean Kitchen' with a coffee table sized, formatted, and priced book similar to recent volumes from a gaggle of famous restaurant chefs lead by Thomas Keller, Eric Rippert, Frank Stitt, and Rick Tramonto.
I can usually pick up on a very good or a very bad book after reading no more than one or two pages. I can see that this book goes to neither extreme. Its quota of photographs is relatively small for an oversize volume and the quality of the photography does not impress me (slight negative). The book's contents show that it is true to its title in that there are no dessert recipes, but it does seem to stray just a bit when it provides a few `fast' recipes in sidebars to slow recipes (slight negative). The book opens with a six-page overview of the culinary specialities of the major Italian provinces. There are many good books that cover this ground, but Goldstein manages to summarize a lot of stuff into these six pages, so I give a nice plus for this. The book also has a very generous bibliography that always scores points with me. It is large enough so that the fact that most of the entries are in Italian still gives us many good references in English. The value of the Italian references is based on the fact that the slow food movement started in Italy; so most of it's leading writers would be writing in Italian. Almost makes me want to enroll in Berlitz to learn Italian. It at least validates the value of my library on regional Italian cooking. But, are these points together really worth the premium $40 list price?
My take on Goldstein's recipes in `The Mediterranean Kitchen' is that since she is much more the chef then she is the scholar like Roden and Wolfert, her recipes tend to be better written and more kitchen savvy, especially when compared to journalist Roden. So, are her recipes still better than average? Good enough for a premium price tag?
Looking at her selection of recipes, I am very happy with the offerings. The chapter on sauces for pasta and polenta includes nineteen (19) recipes, most of which are unfamiliar to me. The familiar recipes are very nice to have around, as this makes the book a nice reference for both familiar and new sauces. I compared Goldstein's `Ragu alla Bolognese' recipe with that from Marcella Hazan's `Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking' and I found several differences, but one which struck me as especially notable. Hazan adds her wine only after adding the milk and reducing it's liquid before adding the wine, specifically to avoid the meat's being infused with an acidic bite from the wine and tomatoes. Goldstein adds wine and tomato paste before adding the milk. I am inclined to prefer Hazan on this recipe based on both the fact that it makes a lot of sense and her position as THE leading authority on Italian recipes. Goldstein does add one interesting note by adding some chopped prosciutto and chopped pancetta to the recipe. This is worth a try.
Otherwise, I had some trouble finding recipes in Hazan to match Goldstein dishes. I consider this a good thing, as it means there is little overlap and you can cheerfully own both books. You will find a lot of overlap in very general categories of recipes. Both books, for example, contain several southern Italian Braciole recipes (rolled meats), but none that duplicate location and primary ingredients. In general, Hazan's recipes are more detailed with more hints. Goldstein's recipes are just a bit less fussy and a bit more modern.
I very much like Goldstein's chapter on vegetable recipes, especially as the modern take on vegetables is to pass them quickly over the heat to just barely remove the edge of rawness before serving. The Italians were never big on raw or undercooked veggies, and Goldstein has given us lots of well cooked and stuffed reds and greens and yellow goodies.
I find it very odd that Goldstein includes no separate recipes for `brodo', no recipes for fresh pasta, and no recipes for bread. These would have fit the premise of her book perfectly. The other side of the coin is that since these things are covered so well in other books, why dilute a book of purely savory recipes with these starches. I still miss the `brodo' recipe. She does provide a perfunctory one as part of a recipe for risotto.
Like `The Mediterranean Kitchen', this book contains wine suggestions which are based heavily on the notion of `terroir' which is an old standard supported by everyone from Wolfert to Mario Batali. Knowing absolutely nothing about wine, I can still recommend these suggestions as they are clear, offer several options including both good, available Italian labels and parallel California offerings. No hoity toity factor at work here!
This is a good book. There are lots of good recipes, very nice wine recommendations, and excellent quick resources on Italian cooking. Whether or not you buy it depends a lot on whether you want to pay the price when you can get Marcella Hazan's authoritative volume for about half with a good discount. A very good but pricy book.