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The capital city of Kingston lies on the south shore, a metropolitan area of over 800,000 residents thats visited primarily for business rather than pleasure. Within this sprawling metropolis, however, beats the true heart of Jamaica. Travelers interested in the culture and history that define this island nation must make time for a visit to Kingston, the largest English-speaking city south of Miami.
Kingston is not an easy city to love. Its big, brash, and boisterous. Crime is a major problem, one severe enough that some taxi drivers wont even venture into the downtown region (more on that later). Life spills out from storefronts and homes onto the streets of this city, filling the sidewalks and every inch of available space. Goats roam the downtown area, sidewalk vendors peddle all type of merchandise from carts and tables, and pedestrians are everywhere.
History
Kingston dates back to 1692. The city is built along the harbor, stretching from the Blue Mountains in the east to the boundaries of Spanish Town to the west.
Along the waterfront, youll find the commercial center of Kingston. Here goods come and go from around the world. Near the Jamaica Conference Centre, people stroll along the waterfront, enjoying the sunshine, sharing conversation, and buying local foods from vendors. Look out across the waters and youll see a peninsula. This is where Norman Manley International Airport is located. Beyond the airport lies the fishing village of Port Royal, once one of the greatest cities in the Caribbean. Nicknamed "the wickedest city in Christendom," Port Royal was a hangout for the pirates of the Caribbean, but their rollicking fun came to a screeching halt on June 7, 1692, when a violent earthquake shook the region and pummeled Port Royal into the sea. Archaeologists have recovered artifacts from the scandalous community and today shoppers can buy reproductions of Port Royal pewter plates and cups from Things Jamaican.
Today plans are underway for big developments in Port Royal, which will once again focus attention on the history of the area. Plans call for protection of the offshore cays, development of an historic interpretive master plan, construction of a cruise ship pier and arrival center, and especially the restoration of many historic buildings such as Fort Charles, the Old Naval Hospital, Victoria and Albert Battery, and more.
For today, however, Port Royal is a quiet stop, just a small fishing village. If youre here at lunchtime, dont miss Glorias fish shack, where you can sit on picnic tables under awning and enjoy fish fried or steamed.
Another nearby city is Spanish Town. This was once Santiago de la Vega, the islands capital city under Spanish rule. Those early explorers came to Jamaica in search of precious metals and finally gave up the island to the English in 1655. The city is located 12 miles west of Kingston on A-1, and is an excellent day trip from Kingston for those with an interest in history.
Kingston itself is not one city but a conglomeration of communities and neighborhoods with invisible boundaries that are very clear to those who live here. "I dont go downtown," one taxi driver told us. Although he was a lifelong Kingstonian, he would not travel to this area that has long been plagued by crime.
Avoiding Crime
Just which sections should you avoid? The worst regions are found in the west and south of the city. Arriving from Spanish Town, the neighborhoods of Six Miles and Riverton City are some of the citys worst. (Our taxi driver warned us if the car broke down in this area, there would be nothing left of it by the time we could come back with a mechanic.) South along the waterfront, Spanish Town Road skirts through the downtown, a high-crime district where many Kingstonians (including two taxi drivers we rode with) will not visit, day or night.
Farther east, the business section of downtown is home to many international corporations, consulate offices, banks, insurance companies, and the world-class Jamaica Convention Centre. This is the home of the International Seabed Authority, the UN body that creates all laws for the worlds seas. This modern center lies along the lovely waterfront on Ocean Boulevard, where parks overlook the harbor and you can enjoy an afternoon with the locals, dining on street food and absorbing the atmosphere.
This area is generally safe during weekday business hours, but when 5 oclock rolls around it takes on the feeling of a ghost town as business people head back up into the safety of the hills.
Most Kingston travelers spend their time in New Kingston, located north of the downtown area. Bounded by Old Hope Road on the east side and Half Way Tree Road (which changes to Constant Spring Road) on the west, the main thoroughfare through New Kingston is Hope Road. Here youll find the modern convention hotels, restaurants, and nightclubs preferred by most of the citys visitors.
North of New Kingston lies the citys most beautiful area. Magnificent homes are par for the course in the Constant Springs neighborhood. Stunning vistas are found here, especially in the early evening when the city lights come out.
East of Kingston, the views are even more spectacular, both day and night. Follow Hope Road past the University of the West Indies as it becomes Gordon Town Road and curls its way up into the Blue Mountains.
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