| Part Number : | JW1005 |
| Part Number : | JW1005 |
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
5 of 5 people found the following review helpful:
2.0 out of 5 stars
Not So Great,
By B.B.Rich "bbrich57" (Manor, TX United States) - See all my reviews
This review is from: Jet JW1005 Table Saw Flange 14X14
Dust/chip collection is always a problem in any shop. Because I am basically lazy about it and don't want to have to spend all my free time cleaning up after the previous project I am always looking for new ways to improve my own. These hoods, whether from Jet or any one of a hundred other sources are not the answer... at least not completely. You can do the same thing with some 1/4" plywood, or hardboard and a 6"X 4" (or a 4" X 4") metal duct reducer. I received this hood as part of my Jet table saw. I did not buy it seperately. This is nothing but your standard fare, universal dust hood for contractor style saws, and by itself it isn't very efficient. In a couple of minutes of cutting I had saw dust EVERYWHERE!! Only a small percentage of it was actually making it into the dust collection system. Expect to do some modifications if you are truly serious about collecting the saw dust from your saw. More about that later... I suggest you look up the "Dust Monkey" on this site to get an "idea" of what I mean. I didn't buy one of those either but instead made my own from thin (1/8") hardboard and stovepipe. YES, don't laugh! I did say "stovepipe." Expect to have to seal as many leaks in your saw as is reasonably possible. That is: close in the back, but not so much that the trunnion won't tilt freely. There are several good sites that offer suggestions and pictures. Newwoodworker.com is an excellent resource; Seal any holes where the steel sides of the saw join together, and don't forget the top. Use hard foam, duct tape, caulk, whatever you need to do; Seal any gaps between the top and the body of the saw. Mine had lots of them. I used some semi-flexible packing foam cut into strips and jammed it in there. Then you can get more serious and make collection ramps or modify the dust hood creating a bigger (as big as possible) funnel. I used a 10"x 6"x 6" metal "boot" with a 6" outlet (you could also use a 6"x6"x4" for a one step operation) followed by 6"x 4" stovepipe reducer adapter (all stock stuff and about $15 from your local home center) to connect to standard 4" hose. I cut out the original outlet, then "tabbed" the edges of the new funnel about 1" in, folded the tabs out 90 degrees and used them to caulk, screw and aluminim tape the new "funnel" in place. Unlike PVC, standard 4" stovepipe is the exact size needed for these connections. It works great, and believe it or not, doesn't look bad either... kind of "industrial", but rather impressive. Now, the hose connection is just OUTSIDE the saw body instead of underneath and easy to get to. Hey, you can always paint it flat black if you want to. I don't mean to be condescending here for I too am only a couch engineer, but what you are trying to accomplish is to create good vacuum in all the RIGHT places and direct as much of the suction air FROM the blade and back area INTO the funnel and keep it from getting caught up in eddies usually created in the corners inside the saw body, but not to eliminate all of the air drawn in. A cone would probably be ideal but impractical to accomplish inside the saw body. Spend some time with your saw and you will not only have gotten to know it better but in a couple of hours well spent you can have a contractors saw that rivals some of the far more expensive cabinets saws... at least as far as dust collection is concerned. }:-D I hope this review helps you, and, Good Luck with your dreams.
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