John Rawlings: 30 Years in Vogue (Hardcover)

~ Kohle Yohannan (Author), Charles Dare (Introduction)

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal

This stunning collection of the work of Vogue photographer John Rawlings (1912-70) offers an unintended historical message: the Thirties could look modern, the Forties were not all black and white, the Fifties were rich with sophisticated design, and the Sixties included careful, colorful composition, not just hippie chaos. Rawlings left a significant body of work, including 200 Vogue covers, of which Yohannan is the curator. Rawlings was a fashion photographer determined to show more than clothes, which for him were simply one of several elements in an environment where the model dwelt for a camera instant. What resulted from his approach were fully developed works of art that beg for analysis; each image has the quality of a starting point for a tale. In selecting photographs that defy time, Yohannan has built a volume that is both a tribute to an artist and an insight into how genius can endure in a world that is often thought of as "commercial." Recommended for both public and academic libraries. David Bryant, New Canaan Lib., CT
Copyright 2001 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Product Description

With over 200 Vogue and Glamour covers to his credit and 30,000 photos in archive, John Rawlings (1921-1970) immortalized the era in which American fashion and style truly came into their own. During his three-decade affiliation with Conde Nast, Rawlings’s work paralleled his publishers’ and editors’ efforts to reformat and expand the power and scope of the fashion press. Rawlings was in the elite circle of Irving Penn, Horst P. Horst, George Hoyningen-Huene, and George Platt Lynes, all top Vogue photographers, yet never received the kind of attention lauded on his colleagues — until now. Drawing on the photographer’s recently rediscovered archive, curator Kohle Yohannan presents glamour portraits as well as never-before-published nudes that testify to the artist’s ground-breaking and compelling body of work. Photographs of stage, screen, and society stars of the 1940s and 1950s, including Marlene Dietrich, Salvador Dali, Veronica Lake, Lena Horne, and Montgomery Clift are featured.

Product Details

• Hardcover: 225 pages
• Publisher: Arena Editions; illustrated edition edition (April 9, 2001)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1892041383
• ISBN-13: 978-1892041388
• Product Dimensions: 14.1 x 9.5 x 0.9 inches
• Shipping Weight: 4.3 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (4 customer reviews)
• Amazon.com Sales Rank: #392,673 in Books (See Bestsellers in Books)

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

16 of 16 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Out of Darkness and Shadows into the Light!, June 2, 2001

By	Professor Donald Mitchell "Jesus Makes Me a P... (Boston) - See all my reviews (TOP 10 REVIEWER)

Before commenting on this book, you should be aware that it contains many nude images that would be "R" rated if they were contained in a motion picture.

John Rawlings took fashion photography in a whole new direction. In the 1930s when he began, the predominate style used lots of shadow and darkness to present a sense of haunting mystery. That style was also great for covering up flaws in the subject. Around 1940, John Rawlings began creating fascinating modern fashion shots that look like they might have been made just yesterday. In these images, he makes light, reflections, and color even more interesting than the darkness and shadow ever were in black-and-white. In doing so, he is remarkably effective in "keeping the photographer out of the picture."

His career was a most distinguished and prolific one. Mr. Rawlings was responsible for over 200 covers of Vogue and Glamour. These images captured a unique "chic sophistication" that you will recognize and appreciate seeing again. He also produced a series of famous Clairol ads, and published two books of nudes (some of which are reproduced here). He is one of the rare photographers from that period who was top-notch in both black-and-white and color.

Some of his best work involved making cigarette smoking by women seem more glamorous. It was hard for me not to wince which I saw those photographs.

The book opens with a poem that reflects the work published here:

"At just that crux of time when she is made

So beautiful that she or time must fade."

In the case of many of these works, it is hard to avoid feeling that time faded rather than the images of the women. The photography moves beyond the styles of the day into a timeless sense of beauty and culture.

The images are well chosen to be appealing to an audience today. The quality of paper and reproduction are both superb. The essays and background material are excellent.

....

After you have enjoyed these images, think about the meaning you attribute to the poses these women assume. What are they thinking? How much of a role do you think they played in selecting the poses? What is sophistication in fashion? Mr. Rawlings's impressive work will undoubtedly give you new dimensions for answering these questions.

Let the light show you the way!

13 of 14 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Elegant, refined style, May 8, 2001

By	"phil10500" (Tokyo, Japan) - See all my reviews

This book is a retrospective collection of the work of a leading commercial photographer active from the late 1930's to the mid 1960's. Most of the pictures are fashion photos, some are Hollywood celebrity portraits, and there are nude figure studies as well. I think the fashion photos are the best part. They are exquisite. The majority were taken from the late 1940's through the decade of the 1950's, which will give you an idea of the style of the clothes and photography (extremely elegant on both counts). Both B&W and color photos are included. The color plates have a lovely unsaturated look (no Velvia used here). The dust jacket photo is from a 1947 Vogue cover.

Those who are looking for classic photography and elegant style will not be disappointed - this is a great book.

7 of 7 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Great collection from a master fashion photographer!, August 27, 2002

By	Annick "Librarian Diva" (Bronx, NY United States) - See all my reviews

This collection brings together the best images of this photographer. His work stands out from his contemporaries with thier unique, groundbreaking style. You can tell he inspired people like Avedon. His work is timeless, not date at all. If you like fashion photography from the mid-twentieth century, you'll love this book!