K2 the 1939 Tragedy [Paperback]

Andrew J. Kauffman (Author), William Lowell Putnam (Author)

Book Description

Publication Date: September 1993

After an incident-packed 1938 attempt, an American team made another bid to climb the world's second highest peak the following year. The expedition was led by the mercurial Austrian emigre Fritz Wiessner. With the more experienced climbers recovering after the events of 1938, Wiessner was forced to take a weaker team that included a number of rich but inexperienced climber/adventurers. The problem was compounded by a personality clash between the leader and the second most experienced climber, Jack Durrance. The attempt reached a dramatic climax when Wiessner, returning from a final solo summit bid was forced to leave the stricken Dudley Wolfe in a high camp, descending to get assistance and supplies, only to find the lower camps had been emptied of all food and equipment. When a rescue attempt was finally mounted three leading Sherpas perished and Wolfe was found dead. The subsequent recriminations between Wiessner and Durrance have soured American climbing circles for over 50 years. With the help of the only-recently-available Durrance diaries, Putnam and Kauffman have made a re-examination of the decisions and actions that led to tragedy.

--This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

In 1939 an American expedition attempted to make a first ascent of the world's second-highest peak, K2, in the Himalayas. Two members of the party came within 800 feet of the summit before turning back, and in the confusion and inclement weather that followed, four men lost their lives. Then one of the worst tragedies in mountaineering history, the 1939 K2 disaster was also noteworthy for its mystery and intrigue. Could any of the climbers be faulted for their actions? And if so, who? Surviving members added to this intrigue with their reticence.

The authors of K2: The 1939 Tragedy retrace the expedition's footsteps through compelling personal diaries as well as recently uncovered documents, and their effort to unravel one of mountaineering's great mysteries makes for thrilling reading.

Product Details

• Paperback
• Publisher: Mountaineers Books (September 1993)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0898863732
• ISBN-13: 978-0898863734
• Product Dimensions: 9 x 5.9 x 0.6 inches
• Shipping Weight: 13.6 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 3.6 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (11 customer reviews)
• Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #760,400 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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19 of 21 people found the following review helpful:

3.0 out of 5 stars A Tale Still Waiting to be Told, July 30, 2001

By 

sweetmolly (RICHMOND, VA USA) - See all my reviews

This review is from: K2 the 1939 Tragedy (Paperback)

This book has an agenda: to once and for all clear the name of team member Jack Durrance of any negligence for the disastrous results of this expedition. Briefly stated, leader Fritz Wiessner was the only member of this six-man team who had any business setting foot on savage, unforgiving, unrelenting K-2. Yet Wiessner handpicked the team himself, except for one-Jack Durrance, who was a last-minute replacement. That is the crux of the controversy. Wiessner, who never admitted mistakes, was all too willing to make Durrance the fall guy. The odd part is with the exception of Wiessner; Durrance had the most mountaineering ability. The other members either had no experience, or only had climbed with the assistance of guides. After enjoying unusually good weather, Wiessner and the doomed Dudley Wolfe were within 800 meters of the summit. The mystery was why with two men at this level, were all the camps below stripped of tents and all equipment, leaving them totally exposed on the descent? Why did Wiessner leave the helpless Wolfe alone and unattended? Why were three Sherpas the only ones to attempt Wolfe's rescue? What happened to the four of them who were never seen again?

The book has some excellent photos depicting the team in their suits and ties, a luncheon served with great elegance in the heart of the Himalayas, and some very clear pictures of their primitive climbing equipment and clothing. It truly makes you realize what odds they overcame to be so high with leaky boots, soggy woolens, and waterlogged tents.

The authors have the advantage of Jack Durrance's diary, heretofore unseen and unknown. This is also a disadvantage because the Kaufman & Putnam seem to rely entirely on the veracity of this diary. It is given far too much weight in making their conclusions.

The book is maddeningly repetitious. Whenever Wiessner is faulted, the authors assure you (in detail) what a fine mountaineer Wiessner was---over and over again. Though the authors are not shy about projecting psychological insights onto the team members, they make no efforts to explore and recreate the violent disagreements that took place. Wiessner and first assistant Eaton (Tony) Cromwell started out as the best of friends. Yet in the aftermath of the climb, Cromwell bitterly attacks Wiessner as a "murderer." Why? What happened to the four men who disappeared? Were they ever found?

The book has merit for it's strong descriptions of the personalities involved and being able to interview living men. However, the style is stilted and the impartiality suspect. Recommended for die-hard mountaineering fans only.

18 of 21 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars AN AMERICAN TRAGEDY AT HIGH ALTITUDE..., August 19, 2000

By 

Lawyeraau (Balmoral Castle) - See all my reviews
(TOP 100 REVIEWER)    (VINE VOICE)    (COMMUNITY FORUM 04)    (HALL OF FAME REVIEWER)   

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This review is from: K2 the 1939 Tragedy (Paperback)

An absorbing review of the facts and circumstances surrounding the tragic 1939 K2 expedition and its aftermath. Weaving a newly discovered, first hand account by one of the expeditioners, with already known, heretofore, controversial historical data from others on the expedition, the authors masterfully reconstruct the events which led to the deaths of four individuals, three Sherpas and one American, on K2 in the wild Karakoram range.

After many weeks in the mountains, overcome by altitude sickness and inexperience, only three members of the expedition are physically able or willing to push on to the summit. The only ones so inclined are its expedition leader, Fritz Wiessner, the rich American who bankrolled part of the expedition, Dudley Wolfe, and the plucky Sherpa porter, Pasang Lama.

Dudley Wolfe, with whom Fritz Wiessner seems to have developed a client-guide relationship, is unable to continue past camp VIII, limited by his own inexperience. Fritz, a superb climber, continue along towards the summit with Pasang Lama. They set up Camp IX and continue on towards the summit, where they manages to make it up to within 8oo feet of the summit. There, the plucky Pasang Lama is unable to continue. They decide to return to Camp IX with the intention of resting and returning the next day for a new assault on the summit.

It was not to be. On their descent, they lost their crampons. After they rested in Camp IX, they realized that they needed more supplies, so they went down to Camp VIII. There they found Dudley, but no new supplies had been brought up from the lower camps. So, they all decide to go down to Camp VII to investigate and restock.

On the way down, Dudley's inexperience causes them to have an accident on the ropes. They fall but manage to survive. Pasang Lama, however, is seriously injured, and the sleeping bag and air mattress that Dudley carried is lost to the mountain. Fritz, having left his bedding in Camp IX, expecting to find some in the lower camps, is disappointed when they manage to reach camp VII, only to find it in disarray and stripped of all bedding and sleeping bags! Remarkably, both Dudley and Fritz had by this time spent nearly a month in the dead zone without supplementary oxygen. Therein lies the tale.

Read on! The account is at times mesmerizing. This remarkably well researched chronicle manages to paint a riveting picture of the the travails of this expedition from its confused beginnings to its tragic end. It shows what can happen when all members of the expedition are clearly not on the same page.

16 of 20 people found the following review helpful:

1.0 out of 5 stars Biased One Sided View of the Event, January 29, 2001

By 

sdh537 (USA) - See all my reviews

This review is from: K2 the 1939 Tragedy (Paperback)

This book uses the Diary of Jack Durrance as the principle (and only) truth. The amazing thing is this diary was NOT released to the public until 1989, just after Fritz Wiessner passed away in 1988. Coincidence? Or assurance that Jack's diary wouldn't be challenged?

This book tries to pass the blame from Durrance to others, including Fritz for the tragedy, based solely on the diary. The authors state that the Diary showed that Durrance was sane of mind in those critical days on K2, yet how do the authors know this was indeed written on K2 and not written at some later date by Durrance to defend himself? Yes handwriting analysis does show that Dorrance wrote it, but WHEN did he write it? Where's the proof to that?

The authors wave off the note that Fritz says he received from Durrance based on the fact that no one else says they saw the note. (Which Fritz says he turned in to the American Alpine Club and never got back from them.) Yet they believe this diary that surfaced 50 years later which has only been seen by Durrance, is true.

The authors are both past high ranking members of the American Alpine Club (past president and past vice president) who wrongly blamed Fritz for the Tragedy back in 1939... coincidence? Makes me wonder...

If you want an unbiased account of the events of K2 in 1939, look elsewhere. "High : Stories of Survival from Everest and K2 (Extreme Adventure)by Clint Willis" includes this K2 story from another viewpoint, check that out first.

If however you are a Jack Durrance fan and are looking to erase blame from him and pass more of it to Fritz Wiessner, this is the book for you.