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Product Information
Color: White
Technical Details
| Item Weight | 8.4 pounds |
| Product Dimensions | 1.6 x 22.5 x 29 inches |
| UPC | 786441080206 |
| Item model number | Safeway G2000 |
Additional Information
| ASIN | B000BQKWHE |
| Best Sellers Rank |
#1,557 in Baby (See top 100)
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| Shipping Weight | 8.4 pounds (View shipping rates and policies) |
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Product Description
Color: White
The Safeway Gate is rated number one for the top of the stairs by a leading independent consumer organization. Constructed of sturdy, tubular steel with a non-toxic coating, it mounts permanently for added safety. It's easy to install and easy to remove, and the one-hand operation makes it easy to use, too. An exclusive, easily adjustable feature prevents the gate from swinging open over the stairs. It fits openings from 24.75" to 43.5" wide, and also works with most railings and angled walls. Measures 30.5 inches high.
Customer Reviews
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
195 of 197 people found the following review helpful
By S.M.
Color Name:White|Amazon Verified Purchase
This gate works very well. My 5 year old can open and close it easily, but my 2 year old cannot. It can be opened/closed easily with one hand while holding a baby with the other. We mounted 2 of them, one at the top and one at the bottom of the stairs. We've used this gate for 2 years without any problems.
When installing, don't use the screws that came with the gate. Use 1-1/2" galvanized screws instead. Pre-drill slightly narrower holes about 1" into the studs before screwing. If you run into a metal plate just underneath the drywall while drilling (common in newer homes at the corners of walls), stop drilling and take a sharp and somewhat thick nail and hammer it gently through the metal plate, just far enough to puncture a hole that the drill bit can fit through, then continue drilling. When tightening the screws, you can use a cordless screwdriver, but stop just before it is tight, then tighten by hand with a Philips screwdriver so as to not break the plastic. From start to finish, it took me 2 hours to install and that was with my 5 year old "helping" :-)
After installation, if the gate is difficult to open/close and doesn't seem to drop into place or lift easily, retighten the bottom hinge bolt: if it is misaligned it will catch on the plastic rod and stop sliding. Use crescent wrench or pliers to hold the bolt firmly (not too tightly or it will crush the threads), then use the wrench included with the gate to tighten the nut. Also, rub candle wax on the locking bolts and edge of the locking trays, so that the bolts slide easily into the trays. A little WD40 on the hinge sliding mechanisms helps, too.
When installing, don't use the screws that came with the gate. Use 1-1/2" galvanized screws instead. Pre-drill slightly narrower holes about 1" into the studs before screwing. If you run into a metal plate just underneath the drywall while drilling (common in newer homes at the corners of walls), stop drilling and take a sharp and somewhat thick nail and hammer it gently through the metal plate, just far enough to puncture a hole that the drill bit can fit through, then continue drilling. When tightening the screws, you can use a cordless screwdriver, but stop just before it is tight, then tighten by hand with a Philips screwdriver so as to not break the plastic. From start to finish, it took me 2 hours to install and that was with my 5 year old "helping" :-)
After installation, if the gate is difficult to open/close and doesn't seem to drop into place or lift easily, retighten the bottom hinge bolt: if it is misaligned it will catch on the plastic rod and stop sliding. Use crescent wrench or pliers to hold the bolt firmly (not too tightly or it will crush the threads), then use the wrench included with the gate to tighten the nut. Also, rub candle wax on the locking bolts and edge of the locking trays, so that the bolts slide easily into the trays. A little WD40 on the hinge sliding mechanisms helps, too.
213 of 219 people found the following review helpful
By David Nicks
Color Name:White
I have several of these gates, along with the Safety 1st Smartlight Stair Gate. I bought them three years and three houses ago when my daughter started walking. They have been installed at the top of stairs, bottom of stairs, and between rooms, both as kid gates and as barriers for a 95-lb Labrador (Jack) and a psychotic lab mix we rescued (Maggie). Maggie occasionally freaked out during thunderstorms and apparently took it out on Jack. The gates helped protect Jack from Maggie. Did their job, too. One day we came home from church and Maggie had eaten her way through the wall from the garage into the utility room - fortunately for Jack, there was an extra stud in the way and she hadn't yet chewed through the 2x4 before we got home. But Maggie never ate through one of these gates!
I have moved two times since my original purchase, and have taken all of my gates with me each time and reinstalled them in the new houses. After three installations, they are still working just great! My latest installation was particularly tricky, due to the complete lack of a suitable mounting surface for the latch side of the gate at the top of the stairs - see my product photo for details.
As for ease of installation, ease of use, quality, etc. These gates are definitely the best value for the money. Unlike other, more expensive gates, there isn't much framework or brackets on either side of the gate when it's open. When this thing swings open wide, it lays FLAT against the wall and eats up a mere 1/2" of your opening. If that's still in your way, it takes maybe 30 seconds (if you're slow) and NO TOOLS to unlatch the gate hinge, and remove the gate entirely. A few small white bits stay stuck to your walls, ready for the gate to be reinstalled in another 30 seconds.
Installation requires a moderate amount of common sense, and perhaps a teeny bit more competence than that required to hang a picture. Like many others, I tossed out the included screws and went with new hardware - I chose 3" decking screws from the big box hardware store for the hinge side. The latch side isn't as critical, since it won't get loaded nearly as bad as the hinge side.
I beg you to at least get one thing right, ESPECIALLY if you're putting this gate at the top of the stairs. Mount the hinge brackets to SOLID WOOD. DON'T USE DRYWALL ANCHORS, even the mega-beefy ones. You should get a stud finder, determine the location of the stud - and if you're not real sure whether you're real close to the center of the stud, then "hunt" for each side of the stud by drilling a row 1/16" holes thru the drywall right at the top of your baseboard, spaced 1/8" apart, until you know where the edges of the stud are. Then use a level to transfer that location up to the top hinge bracket.
If you can't pick the exact location of your hinge bracket, because, for example, the latch bracket HAS to be in a specific spot (my last installation, at the bottom of the stairs, involved mounting the gate latch to a wrought iron banister, which put the hinge directly opposite the banister, where there is no wall stud), then install a 17.5" x 3" x 1/2" piece of wood (you can get a nice piece of hardwood, like poplar or oak, in the project lumber section of your hardware store, in just about this size...maybe 24" long instead of 17.5" long) onto the studs on either side of where your hinges need to be. This often is also perfect to compensate for the thickness of the baseboard that your bottom hinge will get mounted on. Now you have a nice, solid piece of wood to anchor your top hinge on. The top hinge will get the most abuse and will be the most likely to get yanked out of the wall when your three-year old demonstrates how they can swing around on the open gate. So far, all my gates have survived multiple such experiences.
The gates are adjustable at all four corners. If your gate isn't swinging or latching properly, all that's required is to make a simple adjustment at one or more corners. As long as you mounted your hinges so one was directly over the other one, then you can tune this gate to work flawlessly. On the hinge side, there are special eye bolts that thread into the gate. Extending/retracting these eye bolts help to fine-tune the width of the gate opening, and they also are how you make the gate level. On the latch side, there are bolts with a smooth, round flat head that engage into the latches. Each of these can be micro-adjusted so that they just barely kiss the latching surfaces before dropping into the locked position. If your house settles and the walls get closer together, it takes 30 seconds (and an adjustable wrench) to loosen the jam nut, readjust the bolt to perfection, and re-tighten the jam nut. I think I've had to do this to one of my gates, once.
I have one opening that's wider than the maximum width for this gate - no problem, I just ordered the extension (KidCo 24" Extension for Safeway and Elongate Gates) and five minutes later, I had a wider gate (Not five minutes after ordering, Amazon's not quite THAT good ;) )
After doing this so many times, I don't read the instructions or use the mounting template provided. I follow these steps to get perfect results:
1. Assemble the gate and get it roughly in position, sitting on the floor.
2. Put each of the brackets on its corresponding gate part and get an idea of what it needs to mount to.
3. Do any engineering/architectural work necessary to get flat, solid mounting locations for your brackets. This can get tricky, but it's pretty much a requirement for any gate.
4. Mount the lower gate hinge within 1/2" of the floor (you can go higher if you want, but don't exceed 2.5" or your kid might be able to get a head through under the gate). Use the latch as a marking template for the holes, but then use a level to ensure the top hole is plumb (vertically in line with) the bottom hole.
5. With the lower gate hinge mounted, put the gate on the hinge and the slide the upper bracket into position on the gate. With the gate plumb (if you're working alone, an easy way to do this is swing the gate flat against the wall, lean on it and stick your level horizontally across the top of it), mark your top holes. Use the level again to make sure the top holes are plumb with the bottom bracket holes - this step is CRITICAL if you expect your gate to stay put when it's not latched closed. When you have the holes marked, mount the top latch.
6. Hang the gate and swing it into the closed position. Position either the upper or lower latch brackets into place to get an idea of how much you need to grow or shrink the gate width. Use the eye bolts to make fine adjustments, or reassemble the gate sections for macro adjustments. Make sure the gate stays level by taking the same number of turns on the top & bottom eye bolts for each adjustment.
7. When you get 'er close, position the latch brackets to the gate and mark the holes on the wall when the gate is in its closed position. Mount both latch brackets. Make sure you put the little stopper plugs in the brackets if you're mounting at the top of stairs - this makes sure your gate only opens away from the stair opening.
8. Check for final fitment and adjust the bolts on the latch side until they line up perfectly with the slots in the latch brackets.
Takes me about 30 minutes, once I have a solid, flat surface for my brackets, to mount a gate, and that's with two toddlers "helping" me.
The gates are very smooth to operate, and can be opened & closed SILENTLY with one hand, while holding a basket of laundry with the other hand. If you leave an inch or two of space under the gate, you can actually close it and latch it with one foot, while holding two screaming kids on your hips.
As I said near the beginning of this review, my latest installation was quite tricky. The latch side of the gate lined up with the top of a wrought-iron stair railing, and the handrail was hanging several inches into the space where the gate would swing. I needed a flat, vertical mounting surface on the *inside* of this handrail, and behind the handrail was just a wrought iron railing - no wall. The solution turned out to be pretty simple. Just a piece of oak 1x3, about 32" tall, and a couple pieces of plywood (I like Baltic birch plywood because it's stronger and has a finished look to it) held together with some #10x3" wood screws. I used a couple 1/2x1 pieces of oak to clamp this to the railing. No permanent modifications to the railing, and the whole thing is more sturdy than the railing itself. I've uploaded a photo of the setup in the customer images above.
I highly recommend this gate - it will definitely be the one I turn to if I need another one.
I have moved two times since my original purchase, and have taken all of my gates with me each time and reinstalled them in the new houses. After three installations, they are still working just great! My latest installation was particularly tricky, due to the complete lack of a suitable mounting surface for the latch side of the gate at the top of the stairs - see my product photo for details.
As for ease of installation, ease of use, quality, etc. These gates are definitely the best value for the money. Unlike other, more expensive gates, there isn't much framework or brackets on either side of the gate when it's open. When this thing swings open wide, it lays FLAT against the wall and eats up a mere 1/2" of your opening. If that's still in your way, it takes maybe 30 seconds (if you're slow) and NO TOOLS to unlatch the gate hinge, and remove the gate entirely. A few small white bits stay stuck to your walls, ready for the gate to be reinstalled in another 30 seconds.
Installation requires a moderate amount of common sense, and perhaps a teeny bit more competence than that required to hang a picture. Like many others, I tossed out the included screws and went with new hardware - I chose 3" decking screws from the big box hardware store for the hinge side. The latch side isn't as critical, since it won't get loaded nearly as bad as the hinge side.
I beg you to at least get one thing right, ESPECIALLY if you're putting this gate at the top of the stairs. Mount the hinge brackets to SOLID WOOD. DON'T USE DRYWALL ANCHORS, even the mega-beefy ones. You should get a stud finder, determine the location of the stud - and if you're not real sure whether you're real close to the center of the stud, then "hunt" for each side of the stud by drilling a row 1/16" holes thru the drywall right at the top of your baseboard, spaced 1/8" apart, until you know where the edges of the stud are. Then use a level to transfer that location up to the top hinge bracket.
If you can't pick the exact location of your hinge bracket, because, for example, the latch bracket HAS to be in a specific spot (my last installation, at the bottom of the stairs, involved mounting the gate latch to a wrought iron banister, which put the hinge directly opposite the banister, where there is no wall stud), then install a 17.5" x 3" x 1/2" piece of wood (you can get a nice piece of hardwood, like poplar or oak, in the project lumber section of your hardware store, in just about this size...maybe 24" long instead of 17.5" long) onto the studs on either side of where your hinges need to be. This often is also perfect to compensate for the thickness of the baseboard that your bottom hinge will get mounted on. Now you have a nice, solid piece of wood to anchor your top hinge on. The top hinge will get the most abuse and will be the most likely to get yanked out of the wall when your three-year old demonstrates how they can swing around on the open gate. So far, all my gates have survived multiple such experiences.
The gates are adjustable at all four corners. If your gate isn't swinging or latching properly, all that's required is to make a simple adjustment at one or more corners. As long as you mounted your hinges so one was directly over the other one, then you can tune this gate to work flawlessly. On the hinge side, there are special eye bolts that thread into the gate. Extending/retracting these eye bolts help to fine-tune the width of the gate opening, and they also are how you make the gate level. On the latch side, there are bolts with a smooth, round flat head that engage into the latches. Each of these can be micro-adjusted so that they just barely kiss the latching surfaces before dropping into the locked position. If your house settles and the walls get closer together, it takes 30 seconds (and an adjustable wrench) to loosen the jam nut, readjust the bolt to perfection, and re-tighten the jam nut. I think I've had to do this to one of my gates, once.
I have one opening that's wider than the maximum width for this gate - no problem, I just ordered the extension (KidCo 24" Extension for Safeway and Elongate Gates) and five minutes later, I had a wider gate (Not five minutes after ordering, Amazon's not quite THAT good ;) )
After doing this so many times, I don't read the instructions or use the mounting template provided. I follow these steps to get perfect results:
1. Assemble the gate and get it roughly in position, sitting on the floor.
2. Put each of the brackets on its corresponding gate part and get an idea of what it needs to mount to.
3. Do any engineering/architectural work necessary to get flat, solid mounting locations for your brackets. This can get tricky, but it's pretty much a requirement for any gate.
4. Mount the lower gate hinge within 1/2" of the floor (you can go higher if you want, but don't exceed 2.5" or your kid might be able to get a head through under the gate). Use the latch as a marking template for the holes, but then use a level to ensure the top hole is plumb (vertically in line with) the bottom hole.
5. With the lower gate hinge mounted, put the gate on the hinge and the slide the upper bracket into position on the gate. With the gate plumb (if you're working alone, an easy way to do this is swing the gate flat against the wall, lean on it and stick your level horizontally across the top of it), mark your top holes. Use the level again to make sure the top holes are plumb with the bottom bracket holes - this step is CRITICAL if you expect your gate to stay put when it's not latched closed. When you have the holes marked, mount the top latch.
6. Hang the gate and swing it into the closed position. Position either the upper or lower latch brackets into place to get an idea of how much you need to grow or shrink the gate width. Use the eye bolts to make fine adjustments, or reassemble the gate sections for macro adjustments. Make sure the gate stays level by taking the same number of turns on the top & bottom eye bolts for each adjustment.
7. When you get 'er close, position the latch brackets to the gate and mark the holes on the wall when the gate is in its closed position. Mount both latch brackets. Make sure you put the little stopper plugs in the brackets if you're mounting at the top of stairs - this makes sure your gate only opens away from the stair opening.
8. Check for final fitment and adjust the bolts on the latch side until they line up perfectly with the slots in the latch brackets.
Takes me about 30 minutes, once I have a solid, flat surface for my brackets, to mount a gate, and that's with two toddlers "helping" me.
The gates are very smooth to operate, and can be opened & closed SILENTLY with one hand, while holding a basket of laundry with the other hand. If you leave an inch or two of space under the gate, you can actually close it and latch it with one foot, while holding two screaming kids on your hips.
As I said near the beginning of this review, my latest installation was quite tricky. The latch side of the gate lined up with the top of a wrought-iron stair railing, and the handrail was hanging several inches into the space where the gate would swing. I needed a flat, vertical mounting surface on the *inside* of this handrail, and behind the handrail was just a wrought iron railing - no wall. The solution turned out to be pretty simple. Just a piece of oak 1x3, about 32" tall, and a couple pieces of plywood (I like Baltic birch plywood because it's stronger and has a finished look to it) held together with some #10x3" wood screws. I used a couple 1/2x1 pieces of oak to clamp this to the railing. No permanent modifications to the railing, and the whole thing is more sturdy than the railing itself. I've uploaded a photo of the setup in the customer images above.
I highly recommend this gate - it will definitely be the one I turn to if I need another one.
104 of 110 people found the following review helpful
1.0 out of 5 stars
Faulty craftsmanship, had to file a report with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission.
September 12, 2010
By Oxoned
Color Name:White
We requested and received this as a gift since our 12-month-old was just starting to be mobile. When we got the gate, we weren't impressed by the plastic(!) fixtures on the wall, but it seemed sturdy enough so we didn't worry about it. We really tested it and it was secure.
The problem didn't happen until about 3 months in when my daughter was able to break one of the welded bars out of the gate. She's not super strong, she's just toddling around and using stuff for support. I have no other children. Fortunately we never let her be alone near the gate so we saw the problem before anything disastrous happened. Still, what kind of company would sell gates with workmanship shoddy enough for this?
Stay away, they clearly use cheap labor and/or cheap materials.
******** [updated, 1/11]*************************************************
I uploaded pictures of the weld break into this product's image gallery. You may need to see all images for them to come up since there were other images already posted before mine.
I just got the letter KidCo wrote responding to the Product Safety Commission, into which I was copied. They formally determined that the gate had been "worn out from use beyond normal installations for which it was intended." We just opened the new box and installed it, there was no other use of the gate. Nobody mistreated it or was too rough with it, it was only really opened a few times daily.
KidCo suggested that some children jump on their gates, breaking them, and that might be what happened here. I have no other children, and my young daughter could barely stand, let alone climb on a gate and jump. My husband and I have no reason to want to do that (plus it will break out of the wall since the screws aren't that big) and we have no cousins or other visiting children. So that explanation is impossible.
I have no personal vendetta against this company, but I'm really concerned that they appear to be sweeping this under the rug. My child could have fallen down the stairs due to their faulty materials and/or craftsmanship. This is important and they don't seem interested in fixing the problem.
Those of you who had problems with it, you may want to file a report with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission as well to encourage KidCo to look deeper into the design of this product.
The problem didn't happen until about 3 months in when my daughter was able to break one of the welded bars out of the gate. She's not super strong, she's just toddling around and using stuff for support. I have no other children. Fortunately we never let her be alone near the gate so we saw the problem before anything disastrous happened. Still, what kind of company would sell gates with workmanship shoddy enough for this?
Stay away, they clearly use cheap labor and/or cheap materials.
******** [updated, 1/11]*************************************************
I uploaded pictures of the weld break into this product's image gallery. You may need to see all images for them to come up since there were other images already posted before mine.
I just got the letter KidCo wrote responding to the Product Safety Commission, into which I was copied. They formally determined that the gate had been "worn out from use beyond normal installations for which it was intended." We just opened the new box and installed it, there was no other use of the gate. Nobody mistreated it or was too rough with it, it was only really opened a few times daily.
KidCo suggested that some children jump on their gates, breaking them, and that might be what happened here. I have no other children, and my young daughter could barely stand, let alone climb on a gate and jump. My husband and I have no reason to want to do that (plus it will break out of the wall since the screws aren't that big) and we have no cousins or other visiting children. So that explanation is impossible.
I have no personal vendetta against this company, but I'm really concerned that they appear to be sweeping this under the rug. My child could have fallen down the stairs due to their faulty materials and/or craftsmanship. This is important and they don't seem interested in fixing the problem.
Those of you who had problems with it, you may want to file a report with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission as well to encourage KidCo to look deeper into the design of this product.
Most Recent Customer Reviews
3.0 out of 5 stars
Sturdy and reliable but my one year old can open and close.
Had the gate for over a year, absolutely no issues. My 6 year old can open and close it easily. Problem is my one year almost 2, figured how to unlock and lock it and comes and... Read more
Published 9 days ago by Somayeh G. Kashi
3.0 out of 5 stars
it does its job
it does its job. the lock should be more complex to operate. I have a feeling my 19 month old kid will defeat the lock mechanism before she knows how to safely go down stairs. Read more
Published 15 days ago by david jaremowicz
4.0 out of 5 stars
Safe, secure and a little tricky
This is a great baby gate. We have this one and a similar one by Kidco that fits angled spaces. They are great in that they have adjustable widths, they are pretty easy to open... Read more
Published 29 days ago by M. Pope
3.0 out of 5 stars
Gate is okay to stop your kid but watch them closely
I somewhat agree with the reviewer who called the gate "shoddy." This is not a gate that could withstand a lot of use from a baby who is learning to walk (ie pulling up on... Read more
Published 1 month ago by Rhea
5.0 out of 5 stars
Really Pleased With These Gates
We currently have six of these wall-mounted gates in our home (kids and dogs!) and are very pleased with them. Read more
Published 1 month ago by Sabrina
5.0 out of 5 stars
Good Gate
This was very easy to install and functions well. The template worked well, but a second set of hands is helpful when your making sure it's true vertical and marking the holes. Read more
Published 1 month ago by Matthew
4.0 out of 5 stars
Good buy
The assembly wasn't difficult and the gate is exactly what we needed. The only complaint that we had was the quality of the screws. Read more
Published 1 month ago by -A
4.0 out of 5 stars
Great Product
For the price paid this gate is a great product. The only reason I don't give it a 5 stars is because the installation instructions are a bit confusing. Read more
Published 1 month ago by Yogg
5.0 out of 5 stars
Would buy it again- makes me feel safe
This is the perfect gate for the top of our stairs. At first, I wanted to make sure that my kids would not be able to fall down the stairs. Read more
Published 2 months ago by gymgirl
4.0 out of 5 stars
Safe, sturdy gate
We installed this gate at the top of our stairs (using the KidCo installation kit). It's been very sturdy and our 22-month old has never been able to push or otherwise open it. Read more
Published 2 months ago by Qball
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