Customer Reviews

Kiss or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber

5 star:		(12)
4 star:		(5)
3 star:		(3)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(0)

 

 

Long, long ago, I saw Mark give a show in Boulder. It was laced with profanity and although it was entertaining at times, it was also so dependant upon proving that Mark was different, better, more intense and more... Twight, than any of us could ever be, and ultimately, that made the whole seem less than the sum of the parts. Over the years, I've read his articles and have seen more of his talks, all of which were a testament to the Mellowing of Mark. Yes, he has mellowed, but that is not to suggest that he is mellow.

Kiss or Kill has a similar flavor to it, showing the change of Dr. Doom over time and place. I found it extremely funny, extremely sad, extremely entertaining and sometimes extremely overcooked. In short, extremely Twight. It belongs on any committed climber's bookshelf.

This is an intense book. VERY INTENSE. In his forward, Twight challenges the reader directly when he says that he wants to make them think, think really HARD, about what he's writing. Twight expects the reader to put it down periodically to do that thinking. He succeeded. This book is an intensely personal perspective on climbing, the ethos of climbing, and the friendships of climbing. The stories are, sometimes, not easy to read -- I sometimes found myself re-reading parts of them just to make sure that I didn't miss anything. Later in the book, Twight indicates that the "Dr. Doom" persona that he put on was sometimes (maybe) overdone for the articles he wrote. Nonetheless, the feelings of anger and rage and the feeling that he just wants to climb his own way and to his own standards, without interference, appear completely genuine starting right from his quotes from his favorite punk rock songs. Adding to the level of interest are Twight's comments after every article where, with some experience and maybe mellowing of time, he adds some additional reflections on what the story meant to him then and now. (Note: This book won the 2001 Banff Mountain Book Award for Mountain Literature.)

The Rollins of alpinism has collected several snarling essays in a thin tome that covers everything from the death of close friends to the disintegration of relationships. Nowhere in the book to we get any idea why this guy pushes the hard routes but that's not the point. Who cares? Sure he's brash and egotistical and opinionated and he mocks your vacuum packed, complacent, Must See TV dog kennel of a world. And there are no bucolic Muir riffs on fields of alpine meadows or pleasant nights passed in a starry bivy. This guy is a war correspondent from a self-inflicted war and if it gets a bit self-indulgent at times at its best it's the stink of pure alpinism, which is hopefully why you'd buy this book in the first pace.

For those not yet initiated in the ways of author and alpine climber Mark Twight, prepare for a literary onslaught on the senses. This guy gets on the last nerve of every mewling maggot who's ever lived a symbiotic existence with a piece of discount furniture. If you're looking for a grand, sweeping, heroic tale in lily white of the conquering of the world's loftiest peaks, look elsewhere. Twight, like any man who places his life in danger in the pursuit of acheivement in this modern age, is an anachronism, and it is to his credit that he even chooses to share his intensely personal and grippingly described adventures among rock, ice, and death. This is serious business, not some guided hiking tour up some overly traveled behemoth. Twight is a visionary alpinist, a fine writer before awards changed his climbing nickname to "Mr. Twight, sir" from the original, and quite accurate, "Dr. Doom." Twight doesn't mince words or deeds. He climbs, writes, and lives by a personal sense of ethics, and if you've never heard of such a concept, this might be the introduction you're looking for.

Anyone who reads this book will walk away ready to kick some serious ass. I loved every article written in this compilation. Mark Twight has done some serious climbing seriously well. He's got major opinions that match his punk attitude. He is excellent at stirring the reader's emotions, you can feel his energy. His love of music connects the reader, enabling us to relate to him on a poetic level. It is inspiring to read a book that is written so honestly. His world is complicated and sometimes contradicting, but he lives it fully out in the open with a drive and determination that will make the reader look at his/her own life and want to do more.

In compilation of his articles written over a period of 20 years, Twight provides a harsh and bittering look to an extreme alpinist's , a punk's, and a man's world who keeps losing friends, year by year. One can really figure out inner development of Twight, who sought more and more complex, unrepeated routes every year, which have been crowned by 63 hour ascent of Czech Direct on Denali. On his way to alpine perfection, Twight sees experiences near death situations, success, loss of friends, breaking up from intimate ones, the trust amd the alchemy of partnership, dysfunctional family, etc.. As his rage gets calmer, but the passion gets deeper, he shaves more and more of his attitude to alpinism for perfection, just like a samurai who keeps fighting not anymore for war, but the way of the sword and inner peace gained looking for it.

The book, which can mean much to any alpinist or a climber, may present an interesting account to read for anyone on armchair.

This book is full of dichotomies, and my feelings about it are too. On the one hand, I was terrified by the stories, by the tales of lost and suffering. On the other, I dream of achieving that level of exposure, that degree of confidence and ability. Worst, or best, I see in Mark's writing a similar burning for action and disdain for failure, rejection of sloth and laziness.

Whatever you think of Twight and Dr. Doom, this book is a must for anyone with aspirations of understanding the mountains and those who live for them.

I was surprised how many very good reviews I read here. I didn't think it was quite that good. I will give him credit for being honest and accomplishing great things in climbing. But he is or was a man possessed and obsessive, which he makes clear in the book. It was a little disturbing to read the extent of his personal demons. The pictures were sensational. The loss of life was sad. Technically accurate of course. I borrowed the book from a climbing buddy and he thought it was too much the same thing over and over again. I can't say it was well written, at least not from my perspective. It was a collection of stories Mark wrote at various times. There seemed to be a pattern of extreme climbing, depression, quitting climbing, and do the same thing over again. I have no idea how many stars to rate this book because it is unique, good in some respects, not so good in others. He certainly didn't inspire me to be like him! But then he is an unusual person and that, perhaps, is the point he is trying to make.

i saw a slideshow by mark in rural idaho sometime in the late 90's, having no idea who he was. he had two slide projectors that were set to alternate slides on the same screen seemingly synchronized to some music while he spoke.
my strongest recollection of the show was the end, where he had images of church windows and graves from climbers crossfade while he spoke of all those lost from his circle. that part went on for quite some time. i immediately went out and got his book 'extreme alpinism', which is sitting dogeared on a table here in the room some 15+ years later. my aspirations to achieve my own personal bests in all areas of my life were deeply influenced by this book as it was the first thing i ever read that just cut the fat away completely on what is possible. most interesting is his thoughts on suffering and action.
this book, 'kiss or kill', contains his writings over the years, many of which are on his 'gym jones' website these days. if you have no interest in ruminations on a take no prisoners/excuses approach to climbing/life there is no point in reading this book and then giving it a poor review. i find it deeply candid considering mark is at heart, a punk, willing to put his money where his mouth is.
the front page of 'extreme alpinism' has this quote:

"for my mentors i owe you everything,
strategy is beyond the techniques,
technique is beyond the tools,
one,
two,
ten thousand."
after 15 years, i am still coming to understand this......

I read this book on a climbing trip to the Caucasus mountains... it blew my mind! so I read it again... and again.
This is not your standard "we went there, we climbed that" book, this book is about the extreme side of alpinism.
I could write that this book is about the pain the suffering and the sacrifice, or about the joy of reaching the goal, or the never-ending quest for self proclamation etc...
But anything I'll write here will be meaningless.
Read this book, and only then you'll see what it's all about!