Customer Reviews

Kiwi Tracks: A New Zealand Journey

5 star:		(5)
4 star:		(6)
3 star:		(2)
2 star:		(1)
1 star:		(4)

 

 

After reading his previous book, Annapurna Circuit, I was curious to read what the author would write about New Zealand. Having been to NZ nine times myself, I was almost reluctant to read this book, thinking it would be a disappointment. I mean, how could it live up to my own experiences in New Zealand? It was better than my expectations. Kiwi Tracks is a travelogue based on four months trekking. Lovely descriptive passages of tramping through the rainforest, some funny scenes where you laugh out loud, and some personal insights that keep you turning the pages. So many of his experiences I could relate to. Although there are criticims he makes, he captures the country and people with insight. I loved his Annapurna Circuit and this book is definitely not a disappointment.

I very much recommend Andrew Stevenson's "Kiwi Tracks," equally well for those who do and do not know personally New Zealand's natural and cultural landscape and her Great Walks. I myself fall somewhat in between these categories - having explored the South Island only, during some six visits in the last 20 years, always tramping, always in awe.

He tells well how the Great Walks (the term had not existed in my early tramps) have turned from a few persons in lonely huts to nearly hundreds of packed-in campers on solo or guided tours -in just a few short decades. Also his South Island walks were unusually impaired by a massive snow storm and so come across a bit off-putting.

Stevenson gave me the best-yet view of what I have been missing in the North Island ("away from the Mainland," as he quips).

Overall, his book is a beautiful, honest, and detailed travel narrative (thank goodness for someone taking the time to name by name the many fauna and flora experienced). But it is markedly canted by his own ah, delicate emotional state during the journey. The book's dust jacket warns us: "... whatever you have in your rucksack, the heaviest baggage is what you carry inside." Stevenson's emotional center of mass during his trip clearly is located a bit outside himself and he is prone to tip over emotionally during the journey. His honesty about this both hurts and helps the narrative - it does give the reader a reference point: The author is working hard to discover that which is truly important to himself in his journey, as well as puzzling over that same question for New Zealand - the colonist vs. native Maori views of national politics, natural heritage, and future directions.

While relating the pristine and inutterably amazing natural beauty of this land, not the least being the almost inconceivable human innocence and generosity of its citizens, he gives us a tutorial in NZ's basic dilemma. When he asks a fellow tramper to quote the best and worst of his travels: [I paraphrase] "The worst is to see the landscape so corrupted by commercialism so quickly." (You can guess - the bus tours, helicopters, jet boats, egregious mountain re-landscaping.) "The best is that New Zealand is still so unbelievable beautiful." This echoed within me, watching once-quiet towns transformed at the snap of a dollar into teaming Disneylands.

Stevenson shows us, by example(s), of how New Zealand transforms and helps its visitors. A German therapist suggests that tramping holds more value than health insurance premiums. I am inclined to agree.

Of the highest value to me in the book is that Stevenson gives us some great insight into the NZ national values debate (still-ongoing) contrasting (via his hitchhiker's car-cabin testimonies) the views of the progeny of the more recent Western, rough-hewn pioneers against the natural spiritualism of
Maoris, who also gave him rides, and to whom he related more. He shows us that the people of New Zealand must finally listen to the Maori, and strive to preserve their naturalist vision (in the face of adventure bungee-jumping tourism). Between the lines, he shows us that the dialog must go both ways,
especially when facing the World's money, foreign buyers and the touristic denizens of the new millennium.

I found this to be an interesting book. If you want to learn all about New Zealand, its flora and fuana, or great "tramps" (hikes, for you and me), this isn't the book for you. However, it is an enjoyable light read, giving the reader interesting snapshots of life in NZ. Stevenson meets some interesting people along his journey and I found the way in which he shares their stories much more engaging than most of his descriptions of his walks in the woods. Yes, at times the book strains credulity and some of the characters may seem a bit cliche, but I, too, stood in wonder of many of the situations he encounters. Ultimately what comes through is that New Zealand is a land both unlike any other and exactly like home, too.

As a travel book, Kiwi Tracks is hindered somewhat by the author's personal problems. He had ended a relationship prior to going on his journey and he keeps reflecting back on his solitude and loneliness. This sort of put a melancholy tone on what should have been an enjoyable trek. As a personal odyssey book, there didnt seem to be much spiritual growth. The specifics of the great NZ tracks were OK, and if one has been on a trek in NZ one would probably want to read this book and include it on his bookshelf. If, however, one has not been to NZ and would like to learn more about the tracks ("Just the facts, ma'am") one would be better served by one of the hiking guides. For a more upbeat look at the country from a personal journey standpoint, the reader might want to keep an eye out in the used bookstores for Edward Kanze's "Notes from New Zealand".

Being that I am preparing to spend the next two years of my life in school in New Zealand, I have been looking for books that can help to prepare me for what my experience in the country will be. That said, I found this book a valuable read. The author presents a good picture of an outsider's view of New Zealand, at least from a traveller's perspective. I think the overall picture, of a beautiful country with an old fashioned mindset, is an interesting one, and I'm looking forward to experiencing it for myself. His descriptions of NZ's natural offerings are the strong point of the book.

Unfortunately, the author is leaving behind a life in Norway that was apparently, in his mind, quite tragic, and he drags the reader through his problems. He's gone to NZ to think about his life, and apparently tramping alone through the wilderness doesn't perk him up much. Reading about how depressed and lonely he is becomes an annoyance from the first chapter, and negatively impacts the entire book. The country he describes sounds beautiful in itself, but with his constant crying, you can't help but feel down about the whole experience. It's like taking a vacation with a friend who's going through a rough divorce.

Overall, the book was good when it stuck to any issue other than the author's relational troubles. I'd recommend it if you can pick it up secondhand, or at the library, as I did.

Kiwi Tracks is a chronical of the author's journey throughout New Zealand. To a limited degree, he describes the great NZ outdoors, including an account of his experience on the Milford Track.

Sadly, this book suffers from the author's apparent lack of focus. He appears to want to write about the beauty of NZ; yet, he frequently writes epics on his criticizms of those around him. Unfortunately for me, the author's knee-slapping humor didn't overshadow his morose tone.

Although intended to be a chonological diary, I think the author left too much out. I found myself asking for more information related to his experiences with the Maori, New Zealanders and the tracks themselves. The book would merit from a rewrite that includes more details; many of the author's ideas are lost in the myre of too little information to paint a solid picture.

If you are looking for a travel guide to plan a trek in New Zealand, this is not the best place to start. I highly recommend the Lonely Planet Tramping in New Zealand (4th Ed) by Jim Dufresne as an alternative.

On the other hand, if you are looking for an easy reading chrononical of a man in time of transition, this might be your book.

I have travelled to New Zealand many times. When in bookshops I always take a peek in the section they have for NZ, and enjoy travel literature on the topic. Reading a book on one's journey through this country is like taking a mini trip back there again, a place I am very fond of. I've never had a bad experience there. It's a place I have gone alone for months at a time, and a place I have gone with family and friends. This book however, was so negative! He spends most of the story whining about his recently ended relationship, complaining about the weather, and his health problems. He seems to have a bit of a chip on his shoulder, which results in poor experiences with locals as they don't appreciate his negativity (and sometimes rude demeanor). There are points when he complains about the eco-tourism and the lack of environmentally friendly tourist attractions (jet boats and such), yet fails to have a bigger picture that New Zealand is much more advanced than most countries in limiting this activity thanks to it's citizens voting for preservation and supporting their Department of Conservation. No place is perfect, but in the bigger picture, NZ is far more ahead in this subject than most countries, and I mean MOST. I am saddened that he tends to place himself in situations where he invites negative experiences. Finally, if you are reading this book having little experience in NZ, please keep these things in mind, as it is an amazing place with some of the most kind and interesting people you'll ever meet. Aside from 2-3 tourist towns, which cram the typical stuff down your throat, it's one of few places you can go that is safe and you can get happily lost on a beautiful beach or mountain, all your own.

Thoroughly enjoyed this narrative with it's mix of facts, humor, and personal insights. Felt like I knew him. Also made me want to visit NZ and see it for myself. I particularly like the sections on the Maori and the poignant ending.

Andrew Stevenson has successfully accomplished what very few others are able to do.
He has written a travel guide that is actually enthralling to read. From its pages you will gain a wonderful sense of the flora, fauna and people of "The Land of the White Cloud."
Although the title suggests it to be a book on hiking... it is not. It is a personal account of his time in New Zealand, where he spends 4 months marching through some of the most beautiful places on earth.
The casts of characters that he introduces us to are not "over the top" hard to imagine people, but... simply the everyday folks of New Zealand and the foreigners that are vacationing there too.
I look forward to reading all of Mr. Stevenson's works.
Andrew... if you ever need a hiking buddy... drop me a line!

I feel that this book is better to read after you've returned from a trip to NZ than it is to read before you've been there. Kiwi Tracks is an account of the authors hikes on NZ's "Great Walks", but the hikes themselves are not the focus here--the focus is on Kiwi culture and attitudes and values, and I personally feel that if you've yet to visit NZ, then his keen insights and investigations will fall on deaf ears. Before you go you want reviews of tracks and trails and sort of general cultural info and expectations--it's hard to value his learned insights about the Tongariro Crossing until you've walked it with 500 new friends (if you don't get what I mean with this comment, then that's my point--his book is for people who are already acquainted with the ins and outs of NZ travel).
After you return from your visit, you'll have seen Maori culture close-up, you'll have seen devastated forest regions,rampant tourism promotion, possum poison traps, sheeped hillsides, and ravenous sand flies...as well as gloriously unspoiled natural wonders and features so unique that your jaw will drop while your heart begins to sing. You may both love and hate NZ/nz tourism and only then will Stevenson's insights ring with wisdom for you.
I speak from the perspective of having spent 3 entire summers exploring only half of NZ.
Scott Cook, author of "NZ Frenzy"