Customer Reviews

Lanzar VCT2610 6,000 Watt 2-Channel High-Power Mosfet Amplifier

5 star:		(3)
4 star:		(1)
3 star:		(3)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(3)

 

 

6000 watts nope nada no way - false advertising.
Believe me I have 0 gauge wire going from two batteries - total over 2000 amps cranking output and over 200 amp hour rating and a 270 amp alternator giving 190 amps at idle with a 10 Farad Cap hooked up.
I knew something wasn't right when I took the amp out of the box and saw the power block on it??? WHAT 6000-8000 watt amps with wuss power connectors and two 60 amp maxi-fuses...
Explain how the laws of physics has changes where you can run that supposed amount of amperage into a connector no larger than a speaker connector?? YOU CAN NOT IT WILL MELT... I used power distribution blocks and stepped down from 0 gauge to 4 gauge and used crimp gold plated connectors to the cap and another adapter to down size the 4 gauge end so I could even hook it to the amp power block..
3000x2 at 4 ohms BS; 8000 watts at 2 OHMS Bridged BIG BS..
I am running a two 15" 4000 watts rated speakers in a vented box using the two Pyle 15" loud speakers sold here on Amazon for 96.00 each and claimed to handle 4000 watts EACH; so I have two so I should be able to run at 8000 Watts? NOPE Nada zip more false advertising..
I have the sub input turned ALL THE WAY DOWN so it doesn't trip into protection mode....
. NO BASS Boosts and when I take my head unit to about 2/3 volume??
I am using the head sub output line so I am not over driving the input signal to the amp..
The amp will almost immediately go into protected mode and shut down; this happens in a few seconds and NOT FROM OVER HEATING.
Don't get me started on how hot this amp runs at even low settings..
Running the amp at about half volume you can fry an egg on it and it has way plenty air circulation... I even put 1/2 square strips under the amp mounting feet to raise the amp off the board to get air to flow under it as well using two 12v computer case fans.. Still will burn me if I touch it after running it...
In fact the amp is sitting in front of the box vent and THAT IS BLOWING AIR AT AND OVER IT....
The pyle speaker are wired in parallel at 2.2 OHMS and then wired box connectors in parallel at at 2.9 OHMS. Then amp is hooked up in bridged mode which the manufacturers book states it can do at 2 OHMS...

I will be rewiring the speaker hookup later for two channel and see what then happens; but I don't give it much hope.
I bought the 1- Lanzar Vector 2610 amp, 2-PYLE PLD15WD speakers, Boss 10 Farad Capacitor, and Dual 15" speaker box here on Amazon..

What size/brand bettery needed for a 8000w system?

I'm about to do a system that's gonna be 8000 watts. 4000 rms. my alternator is going to be 140 amps.

"The power wire between the battery and alternator..."

Lets do some math..... Assuming 4000 watts RMS. To figure current draw, you take power times the inverse of efficiency of the amp divided by volts divided by 2.5 (the average power in music). We'll assume 80% efficient. I = ((4,000 x (1/0.8)) / 13.8) / 2.5 I = (5,000 / 13.8) / 2.5 I = 362 / 2.5 I = 144 amperes Now this 144 amperes is just to run the audio system, You need to add on another 40% to power the vehicle as well (lights, heater, etc.) so... I = 144 x 1.4 I = 202 amperes total What this all boils down to is you will need: Two Group 31 deep cycle batteries and at least a 200 amp alternator. Oh, and don't forget the "Big 3" - that is to replace (or add to [recommended]) the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the engine/tranny to the chassis. Got money?

**** It is clear for their own reasons that make no sense except to be TROLLS and FLAMERS are attacking me. ****

They don't contribute to this "discussion" in any constructive way; yet use moronic words and miss spellings. It is also very clear they lack the ability to even comprehend the simple written English language.

I provided what I found in regards to this amp.
Another poster called me stupid because 00 gauge wire the amp draw will cook off the insulation. These amps or any other amp even CEA certified do not pull a constant 400-600 amp draw but in surges.

I have seen allot of these morons cars burn up because they didn't wire it correctly. One common example is running the power wire from the battery and only fusing it at the amp and NOT at the battery.

These are the same morons that are going boom boom past your house at 4 AM... You look at their "car" and all you can see is a bunch of idiot "bobble" heads sticking up just past the door window edge...
These are the same morons in mommies Honda that tried drifting and broad sided my Z28 BC4 Camaro parked at the curb. My great neighbors stopped them from running away and they got a serious beat down before the cops arrived..

To those who had good questions and constructive questions I will answer those the best way I can; to the morons, go stick your heads up a dark and smelly place..

One thing to note is in the Manual that comes with it that Amazon did not put on here is More Technical Specs so here they are.
RMS Power @4 Ohms 300 watts x2
THD @4 Ohms 450 watts x2
RMS Power @2 Ohms 600 watts x2
THD @2 Ohms 900 watts x2
Maximum Power Output @2 Ohm 6,000 watts x1
Bridged Power @4ohm 8,000 watts x1
Low Level Impendance Input: 10K Ohms
Low Level Sensitivity Input: 200mV-6V Adjustable
S/N Ratio: 95dB
Channel Separation: 65dB
Chrossover Filters-
Low Pass:40 Hz-150 Hz
High Pass:40 Hz-250 Hz
Bass Boost: 0~+18dB
Sub Sonic Filter:10-100 Hz
Stereo Mode: 2-4 Ohms
Bridged Mode: 4-8 Ohms
Fuse Size: 60A x2
Power Supply Voltage: 14.4V DC Neg. Ground (10.5-16V)

So Note that This Amp says it can do 8,000 watts not just 6,000 and so far it Feels like it can but i dont have a sub that can handle 8,000 watts once i do i will post again hope this helps any body.

Lthough ththis amps specs are confusing bar none, and it suffers from severe temp issues........For the eight months that it lasted it freaking kicked some serious but! Incredible power from a true 1200 watt amp. Yes that is it...1200...not 8000. This amp is extremely power hungry so you better be equipt to push this sucker. For the price I would recommend buying it if not for the experience alone. Maintain a conservative volume and consumption and it will last.

This amp is really a true rms 300 watt x 2 @ 4 ohm amp (true 600 watts x 2 @ 4 ohm stereo or 1200 watts rms @ 4 ohms bridged) DO NOT buy it if you think it is a 6000 watt RMS amp as it IS NOT. Lanzar chose unwisly to list it as a 6000 watt PEAK amp... a little decieving. But none the less this is a true 1200 watt amp that demands more than more factory automotive can handle. Plan on running a minimum of true 4 gauge pure copper wire and do the "big 3" upgrade. Also plan on losing some hearing if you have some good subs that can handle this amp. I give it 2 thumbs up!
1998 Haonda Accord
Stock alt (for now)
Kinetick 1800 Batt
2 gaughe to trunk
1- Kicker Solo x

I put this in along with two 4000 watt Pyle Dryvers. This amp is crazy. When i first put it in, i had gotten a dud. When they .When they sent the second one, I promptly put it in and was blown away. The only thing i have to complain about this amp is the bass boost isn't very subtle. It seems as if it's all or none. But no problems, the bass boost is amazing.

I had my subs wired for 8 ohms for simplicity. i tried wiring them for 2 ohms to test the amp. when i did that the amp started tripping out and went into protection mode. I can't turn it up because it gets hot. It says it can take 2 ohms on each channel, but it won't. i do like this amp, but i would choose differently next time

"This is the truth about this amp" i bought this amp because i thit it was a good deal for the watts,wow was i shocked this amp SUCKED SOOOO BAD it wouldent even puch 2 sony 10s lol..

while i agree this is probably in no way 6000 watts. But some thing people realy need to understand how the power rms work. although most companies bloat their ratings, you should understand how to realistic gauge consistant power. If a amp is rated at 300 watts per channel. remember thats peak power-not continuous) so your RMS would realisticly be between 50 and 75 rms per channel. not 150 like the company would have you believe. very few companies are honest about their true power, even very high end ones. How ever kicker and Dual surpriseingly are pretty much hitting the nail on the head when they advertise their power. do your research and sometimes its just takes unfortunately yrs of experience and some technical knowledge. while lanzar is sort of ok product. i would recomend as i said kicker and Dual over all most any other brand for true honesty and quality.

I bought this amp because it said that it was "3000W x 2 Output at 4 Ohms 6000W x 1 bridged Output at 2 Ohms" unfortunately this is not the case. The booklet that comes with the amp states this:

RMS Power 4 Ohms 300 Watts x2
THD 4 Ohms 450 Watts x2
RMS Power 2 Ohms 600 Watts x2
THD 2 Ohms 900 Watts x2
MAX POWER OUTPUT 6000 Watts
Bridged Power at 4 Output 8000 Watts

Honestly I'm not buying anymore Lanzar products after this one and hopefully I can get my money back.

Although the amp died 3 weeks after I installed it, the amp managed to power up 2 12" Directed rated at 600w RMS each. The temperature is the one that killed it. I wouldn't advise to use it at near to max (70%) volume for a long time [longer than 30min :)]. IT'S FRIED. Wouldn't say it's s*** but nearly there....

I have this hooked up to one 15" lanzar 2000 watt dvc sub in a sealed box,overkill yeah but it sounds good, i would get a cap if i were you though, overall i really like this amp, buy it.