Customer Reviews

The Last Step: The American Ascent of K2

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Without a doubt, this is one of the most riveting mountaineering books around. Not for the climbing, which is in and of itself gripping, but for the slice of human drama found in the deterioration of relationships amongst various members of the expedition. At times, one is mesmerized by the bad behavior displayed at such high altitudes! One would think that these expeditioners were on Melrose Place, rather than fighting for their place in mountaineering history on K2, one of the most perilous mountains in the world to ascend.

Central to all the squabbling, was the love trangle which developed on the expedition, which was perceived by some of the expeditioners to be an extra marital affair in progress. Though this later proved to be true, at the time it was the source of much denial and hard feelings. It further split the team, which was already divided over who would be chosen to summit, and eroded already existing friendships, while preventing new ones which might have otherwise developed.

On top of all this, add in poor weather which caused them to spend about sixty seven days on the mountain, mostly at altitudes over eighteen thousand feet, and you have a recipe for disaster. These expeditioners, however, managed to become the first Americans to ascend K2.

Their success in achieving their objective, despite the trials and tribulations which they endured, is testament to their fortitude in putting aside petty, mean spirited concerns and inter-personal conflicts. This painstaking account of the first time summit of K2 by Americans is a must read for all climbing enthusiasts and readers of this genre.

This terrific climbing book combines the larger stories of a struggle to climb the "world's hardest mountain," K2, with a smaller soap opera about a very diverse group of people trying to acheive a goal without driving each other crazy.

From a distance, one might see a cohesive group of climbers, pulling together through the interminable months-long task of hauling supplies and tents up through a series of ever-higher camps, one step up, and then two steps down. But closer up, Ridgeway describes in fascinating detail, how the expedition dissolved into competing cliques, and how selfishness and teamwork collided. There's even an extra-marital love triangle.

While this book is not as much of a page-turner as Into Thin Air, it is one of the finest mountaineering books out there; a must read in this genre.

Ridgeway describes the epic story of the first successful American climb of K2 in 1978. K2, the second highest mountain in the world, has always presented unique challenges due in part to its remote location and in part to its degree of difficulty.

There are two fascinating aspects to this climb that are explored in great detail. The first key sub-plot tells the story of the organizational and personal issues that emerged as the expedition dragged on week after week. The schism that developed between the four aggressive climbers (Ridgeway, Reichardt, Wickwire, and Roskelley) and the other climbers demonstrates the pressures that can grow within any small group of people, friends or not, when they are subjected to incredible physical demands, differences of opinions, and the need to wait out the inevitable storms. With some of the challenges they faced, it is remarkable that the entire team continued to carry loads up the mountain day after day and that they were ultimately successful in putting four climbers at the top.

The second sub-story describes the route selection process by the lead climbers at the top of the mountain. They were exploring a new route in difficult conditions. Ultimately, this culminates in the decision, whether forced by equipment failure or by choice, by three of the four climbers to make for the top of K2 without the use of supplemental oxygen - a feat that had never been completed before. At the same time, the almost hallucinatory description of Wickwire's emergency bivouac at 28,000 feet is a compelling story of his determination to survive.

This book is a great read for those interested in the history of mountain climbing.

I had intended to stretch the reading of this over a couple of weekends. Instead I read it in two sittings. I literally could not put it down! I especially liked the author's account of his experience in the "death zone" while making his successful assault on one of the more difficult peaks in the Himalaya - without supplemental oxygen! I had always thought I would like to climb in the Himalaya. After reading the part about Wickwire's bivouac near 28,000 feet, I think I will be satisfied just reading about it. I highly recommend this excellent book!

This book really did break the mold concerning how expedition account books were written, although some would put that label on Galen Rowell's account of the previous American K2 expedition: In The Throne Room of the Mountain Gods. Prior to In The Throne Room and The Last Step, the interpersonal aspects of expedition life were typically kept private in the books, in the British tradition. In The Throne Room exposed the rifts between team members on that expedition, but not in the compelling manner which Rick Ridgeway pulled it off in The Last Step. It's amazing that the team managed to summit 4 members given the difficult route chosen, the horrid weather and the altitude, let alone the infighting. Then again, Wickwire, Reichart, Roskelly and Ridgeway were not the types of climbers to back down easily. One has to wonder how much correlation there was between the infighting and the stubborness of the leading climbers.

The most amazing thing about this book is the sense of being there it creates for the reader. If you've ever wanted to know what it's like to be on a high-altitude expedition, this is the book. I've read a number of other mountaineering books, but this one stands out in putting the reader in the action. Aside from that, the book is also an inspiring story of heroes who knew what they wanted and were willing to do whatever it took to get it.

In spite of all the fighting and split factions, this expedition was able to successfully place 4 men on the summit of K2 in 1978. Ridgeway is a compelling writer, who is able to retain reader interest and develop his characters well. He effectively gave me insight into the different personalities of the climbers. It was interesting to read about all the dissentions and miscommunications, plus get the exciting climbing experiences of the two separate summit parties. Ridgeway's description of his summit day experience made me feel like I was actually there feeling the bitter cold, and trying to suck down enough oxygen to breathe. I doubt there would have been a successful summit ascent if the 4 who made the summit hadn't been their persistent, focused selves.

I have decided that any moutaineering story that includes climber John Roskelley will undoubtedly have some sort of controversy, as he likes to air his opinions, telling it like it is. He wrote "Nanda Devi," which is another interesting mountaineering adventure that includes drama and controversy as well. I recommend it in addition to "The Last Step."

I have started to read Cherie Bremer-Kamp's (known to the '78 K2 American expedition as Cherie Bech) book, "Living on the Edge" to try to understand her character and motivations a little better. She was one of the controversial members of the '78 expedition. Even after reading her perspective of the K2 expedition and her relationship with Chris Chandler, I still can't help but wonder at the insensitivity and disrespect she showed to her husband (and the father of her two children) who was climbing on the same expedition! Especially after the vehement denials on her part! There are always two sides to a story, I guess.

Read this book, you won't be disappointed. It's got it all, drama and climbing adventure.

The dangers of mountaineering: not only the mountain, but one's fellow climbers. This book exposes all the infighting, whining and petty disagreements that seem to plague many large expeditions.It's not a depressing book, though: by the end, the reader will feel like they've really been there.

I rarely read a book twice, but this is one that I couldn't resist picking up again! High drama, with insights into the terrible physical and psychological dangers of mountaineering and the price that must be paid to climb possibly the most difficult mountain in the world. The excellent writing by Rick Ridgeway weaves the interrelationships of climbers with each other, the mountain, and the eventual sacrfices to be the first American team to reach the summit of K2. If you love adventure; want a better understanding of alpine mountaineering; or to see why K2 is probably the most formidable of the great mountains...read this one!

This expedition of the first Americans (and third group) to summit K2 took place in 1978--which for me doesn't seem like ancient history. But while the equipment was relatively modern, communication was archaic by today's standards. No GPS, no satellite phones, no internet uplinks--the wife of one climber learns of his fate by telegram! Also, because this was Pakistan and not Nepal, there were no Sherpas and only a very small number of high altitude porters and none in the final stages.

So these guys (and gals--it really wasn't ancient history) did it the old-fashioned way--they trekked in for many days to reach Base Camp, they fixed their own rope and carried all their own equipment and cooked their own food. No team of Sherpas to set up aluminum ladders and make sure everyone gets across them. These folks write letters home and listen to cassette tapes.

And yet the story is told with the frankness of modern times--how do you pee at 27,000 feet, how do you deal with adultery on the expedition, and is it really worth it to climb mountains like this, risking death and the possibility of leaving your kids orphaned?

Extremely up-close and vivid writing, step by step and ragged breath by ragged breath. I read this on a hot summer day and yet the feeling of frostbite seemed more real than the hot air around me. A captivating story told by a skilled climber who is also a gifted writer.