Play free association with lemons and tart, sassy, fresh, sunny, invigorating and appealing are words that come to mind. After spending time with Lemon Zest, Lori Longbotham's newest cookbook, those same words apply to the lovely collection of recipes she has chosen to showcase the golden orbs of sunshine. And heading into summer, I can't think of a more appealing ingredient to spend serious time with, especially when guided by Longbotham's creativity and keen sense of flavors.
In some recipes, she uses lemons to add subtle accent to seasonal treasures. Her tomato salad has the sprightly tang of lemon oil playing in fine balance with the fresh basil, garlic and onions that accent vine-ripened beauties. Orzo with tiny peas is near-perfect--just the type of recipe that everyone needs to have in their repertoire. It's quick, uncomplicated, versatile and tastes fabulous.
She shows how wonderfully assertive and puckery lemons can be, too. The first recipe I tried was lemon-blueberry scones with lemon curd; trust me, it will become an oft-turned to standard in any cook's collection. Her riff on lemonade is refreshing, with an interesting list of ideas to jazz up the summertime staple. At her suggestion, I adding tried cardamom, which I never would have thought of myself. It's exotic and wonderful. I also tried the lemon poundcake, which I sprinkled with her lemon dust. Next up is lemon honeycomb mold, a gelatin-based dessert which for those old enough to remember sounds a little like Jello's 1-2-3 dessert mix.
I've used Longbotham's recipes in the past and find them to be accurate and well written--which, unfortunately, is not true of all cookbooks out there. But I also appreciate that she has a good palate--a little sophisticated but not weird or over the edge. And her writing is fun, too. It sounds as though she really enjoys food. This could easily become my favorite book of the summer.