Jonathan Nossiter, acclaimed filmmaker and former sommelier, had his first taste of wine at the age of three in Paris, from his father’s fingertip. For him, wine is “memory in its most liquid and dynamic form,” as essential an expression of culture as cinema, books, baseball, painting, even sex. With great wit and passion, he celebrates wine and its enthusiasts—and defends both from those who tell us what to drink and how to think about it.
In Liquid Memory, the American expatriate investigates the infinite mysteries of terroir, the historical sense of place that makes wine a living, thrilling expression of cultural identity that can stretch back centuries. The book is a deliriously joyful master class in locating the soul of a wine, and in learning to trust your own palate and desires. Nossiter, who has already created an uproar in the world of wine with his film Mondovino, arms us against the tyranny of snobs, critics, and charlatans who would prevent us from taking part in what should be a gloriously democratic bacchanalia.
From the sacred wine shops and three-star restaurants of Paris to the biodynamic vineyards of Burgundy, from the hipster bistros of New York to film locations in Rio de Janeiro and Athens, this singular journey invites us to consider how power, misused, can sometimes mask an absence of taste—and how our own personal taste can combat power in any sphere. A controversial bestseller in Europe, Liquid Memory is sure to rile the establishment, enlighten the thirsty, and reveal the inner life of the world’s most mysterious, contradictory, and jubilatory drink.
Liquid Memory: Why Wine Matters
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Book Description
Editorial Reviews
From Publishers Weekly
Nossiter made the wine world documentary Mondovino, and his first impassioned, personal book is a discursion into the slippery relationships between wine, taste, power and memory. The author is particularly eager to take on the vinicultural powers that be. Drawing on lifelong personal and professional experience with these ideas, the author travels to Paris and Burgundy, from small wine shops to a multinational, franchised wine emporium, through restaurants of varying reputation and public regard, and finally onto a tour of Burgundian vignerons. The entire time, Nossiter debates constantly with various professionals about such matters as consumption-driven culture, contemporary wine criticism and the importance of place—also known as terroir—not just in wine but in culture generally. There are amusing scenes with such notables as Michelin-starred chef Alain Senderens and deft comparisons, such as the equation of a critic like Robert Parker to another decider, Dubya himself. The quixotic approach, with such frequent tactics as film comparisons, meets with mixed success, at regular risk of losing the reader. It's a book equally intriguing and irritating, and one feels that the author wants it that way. (Oct.)
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
Review
“In the two-thousand-year history of writings on food and wine, Liquid Memory is unique. It is not for everyone. It is for people who find not just liquid in a bottle, but an excess of meaning. Who find history and identity. Who find their fathers and origins of civilization and Chet Baker and black-and-white movies and inexplicable stirrings of love. Frankly this book is for people who have no idea why they are so affected. But they will understand more once they have finished reading—in all likelihood, in one sitting. In fact, I’ll put myself right out there and declare that this is the greatest book ever written about wine and that I cannot imagine coming across a more resonating or important one before I die. Samuel Beckett meets Martin Scorsese meets Malcolm Lowry meets dirt meets a poet named Fermentation. Bravo, Nossiter!” —Bill Buford, author of Heat
“In Jonathan Nossiter’s Liquid Memory, there is a passionate, urgent message for all of us: our individuality, our pleasure, and our power all grow out of our own personal taste. Nossiter gives readers the courage to sidestep the arbiters of taste and write their own definition of the sublime.” —Nick Flynn, author of Another Bullshit Night in Suck City
“Liquid Memory is a call to the barricades. Jonathan Nossiter makes a heartfelt plea for all of us who love wine to defend our right to enjoy its pleasures on our personal terms. Full of ideas and opinions, all leavened by the most sympathetic of recollections of idiosyncratic wines, friends, and family, this book will surely stimulate both novice and expert alike to reclaim our individual right to choose.” —Neal I. Rosenthal, author of Reflections of a Wine Merchant
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
38 of 41 people found the following review helpful:
3.0 out of 5 stars
Something of a disappointment,
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This review is from: Liquid Memory: Why Wine Matters (Hardcover)
Jonathan Nossiter is the creator of "Mondovino," a riveting and entertaining documentary/screed about the Parkerization, globalization and industrialization of wine and those who struggle to resist it by continuing to make "terroir wines" that honestly express the place they come from and the people who make them. Based on Mondovino, I came to this book with high expectations and predisposed to be enchanted. "Liquid Memory" confirms what Mondovino demonstrated: Nossiter is a true believer in "terroir winemaking." On that score, I'm with him 110%. He likes the wines and winemakers I do. He decries the "critics," wines and winemakers in my own personal pantheon of enological demons. He extols the virtues of cellaring honest and well made "minor" wines from "bad vintages" because they may well have something wonderful to say, even when they are ten or twenty years old.
This may all be well and good. Alas, the book is marred by an overdose of three things: (1) bombastic/pedantic/sophomoric flights of fancy and psychobabble ; (2) irrelevant name-dropping; and (3) backbiting and sniping at folks on the author's personal enemies list. Do I really want or need to know that Nossiter drank wine x with "talented local film director Sandra Kogut and her American husband, Thomas Levin, an ebullient Princeton professor of postmodern bent"; or that he spoke with "Edward Bradley, my ever-engage professor of Homeric Greek and Latin from Dartmouth College" while he was working on Mondovino? No, I really do not. I came to this volume expecting a reasoned and insightful essay on the culture and esthetics of winemaking and the enjoyment of wine. That is certainly here, in dribs and drabs, but unfortunately blended with extended forays into Nossiter's experiences and predilictions as a film-maker and cineaste (Ettore Scola, Cassavetes and Fassbinder, anyone?); fuzzy headed political theory (perhaps Reagan and Sarkozy are somehow responsible for the prevalence of flabby, extracted, low acid, high alcohol wines?); and a vendetta involving a Spanish winemaker and journalist named Victor de la Serna. Reading all about this last left me downright queasy and ill at ease -- like watching some red-faced lunatic screaming at his invisible demons on the subway -- and wishing that Nossiter had been able to stay on the high road rather than engage in this silly sort of mud-wrestling in public. The high point of the book, at least for me, is the all too brief Part III, "All Roads Lead to Burgundy." Part III succeeds, in large measure, because it consists mostly of the plain-spoken and insightful words of three articulate and seriously good winemakers -- Jean-Marc Roulot, Christophe Roumier and Dominique Lafon. These three state, more simply and directly than anything else in this volume, what honest, terroir driven winemaking is all about. The writing here succeeds for much the same reason Mondovino succeeded as film -- Nossiter has mostly stepped out of the way and let the winemakers do the talking, albeit applying his own sensibilities as editor to help them deliver their message as effectively as possible. I find what Parker, the Wine Expectorator and others have done to winemaking, wine marketing and the personal enjoyment of wine as odious as anyone does, including Nossiter. However, it seems at this point Parker bashing has turned into a cottage industry that spawns a multiplicity of books like this one, in which the authors mostly preen and preach to the choir. Far more interesting and productive reflections on terroir winemaking abound, among them a nice little volume edited by Jacky Rigaux, translated into English as "Terroir & the Winegrower" and published by Terres en Vues. Rigaux's book consists of short interviews and essays from many winemakers and negociants, predominantly Burgundians but also including some folks from Alsace, the Loire, Bordeaux, Italy, California, and South Africa. These are the folks who must put philosophy into practice out there among the vines and in the cuverie, and they have much to say -- as they did in Mondovino and as Roulot, Roumier and Lafon do in "Liquid Memory." This is a worthwhile book -- when Nossiter isn't busy prattling on about his personal list of "great Italian directors" or his lunch with Charlotte Rampling, which is not why one buys and sits down to read a book subtitled "Why Wine Matters." Just as heavy handed winemaking obscures "terroir," here the subject matter is somewhat buried beneath the author's personal stamp.
6 of 6 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars
Come on Guys!,
By
This review is from: Liquid Memory: Why Wine Matters (Hardcover)
I think you are being too hard on him. First off, it is a somewhat memoir type book of his journey through the wine world. I never sensed that he was being bombastic and arrogant in doing so, but that is the way he feels that he wanted to convey his points. Others do it their own way, but does this take away from the premise of the book: That the wine world is fu$%ed on so many levels and who is to blame? I dont think it does and he makes his points rather well in good solid writing with lots of detail. He does name drop a bit but I don't think that should make a difference.
Overall, a good read and definitely the best book to date on wine and globalization.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Really enjoyed this book,
This review is from: Liquid Memory: Why Wine Matters (Hardcover)
Not sure why this book has received so many poor reviews. I really enjoyed it from start to finish and would highly recommend it for any true wine lovers.
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