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15 of 17 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Wolfgang Delivers More Than I Expect. Sound Cooking, January 22, 2004
On the face of it, Wolfgang is unquestionably one of the best-known names in the world of culinary celebrities. To the great general public, he is probably the only name and face to outshine Emeril Legasse. But, the celebrity of both men seems to be based more on media exposure than on sound culinary achievements. While chefs such as Thomas Keller, Charlie Trotter, Daniel Boulud, and Tom Colicchio are less well known, their reputation with foodies is soundly based on culinary achievement, even if only known through their writings and reputation through media reviews. Puck's reputation to the world at large is based primarily on his position as caterer to the Academy Awards and other high visibility Hollywood events. He has a fairly large network of successful restaurants, including some middle end chain style establishments. I have always had the suspicion that he stole some thunder from Chez Panisse in the popularization of `California Cuisine', especially since Jeremiah Tower, the self-proclaimed inventor of this movement looks down his nose at Puck in his book `California Bites'. Similarly, Tower buddy Jim Villas, not known for having any California stripes, thinks little of LA's Puck while praising New Orleans' Lagasse. Lastly, Wolfgang has gone the budget route in lending his name to a low end line of cookware, competing with Martha Stewart's everyday ware rather than with Emeril's high-end All-Clad lines.So does Wolfgang have real chops in the kitchen? The evidence of this book is that his written cuisine is at least as good as Emeril's, his teaching approaches the quality of Jacques Pepin, and his creativity with the fusion of Latin American and Oriental cuisines with European concepts appear no less tasty than those of Norm Van Aken. The only thing the book lacks is that little twist most celebrity chefs give their books nowadays. The twist here is simply that it is from Wolfgang Puck. The good things about this book are: 1. Listing of all recipe names in the Table of Contents. This feature automatically makes a good cookbook more valuable, especially a mid-sized celebrity chef book like this. This fits the best use of the book as a resource for finding dishes for entertaining to fit a particular theme or taste. 2. The emphasis on the sensory queues to the progress of cooking rather than on blind timings. All good chefs repeat this principle, but Wolfgang puts it front and center. This is a central skill of the professional chef whose work would be simply impossible if she worked by time with half a dozen dishes fired at a saute station at the height of service. It is also one of those professional tricks which should be learned by the home cook. The problem of the amateur is that while the recipe may have been written using a gas range and a zinc clad copper saute pan, the cook at home is probably using an electric range with a Teflon coated aluminum pan. And that is just one of the variables. 3. Puck's chapter on basics is first rate, including very useful pictures at all the right places. It covers all the usual techniques for artichoke surgery, but it also includes recipes for court bouillon, puff pastry, and fish stock. I am of two minds with material like this. There are books which include a few pages of worthwhile material and try to give the impression that this is all you need to know, when people such as Jaques Pepin and James Peterson have written whole books on this subject and have not exhausted the subject. So wouldn't the author have been better off devoting this space to more recipes? On balance, I think Wolfgang did us a service and his material here makes me want to seek out his earlier books to find more of the same material. 4. Wolfgang's recipes are a pretty fair mix of the traditional, such as the oft repeated Pasta Puttanesca and the chicken pot pie, to the trademark neuvo Pizza with smoked salmon and caviar. On the negative size, Wolfgang's English writing seems to have the same Austrian accent as his speech. I'm really surprised that a publishing house such as Random House couldn't supply a copy editor to smooth out some of the more mangled wordings. Also, the subtitle of this volume is `The Best of Wolfgang Puck', but it doesn't make clear whether that means the best material from his earlier books, the best recipes from his restaurants, or the best material from his TV shows. This is a small matter, but it would have added value to the material. As someone, like Wolfgang, of Austrian background, I am often disappointed that the second most prominent Austrian-American (after Arnold Schwarzenneger) who also happens to be a famous chef does not do a book of Austrian food. But, this book is no slouch. I would recommend it to anyone who has few cookbooks and is looking for an entertaining menu resource or simply for a wider variety of recipes. It is just slightly pricy at list price for 125 recipes, so look for it at a discount. For foodies, this book gives good value in honing one's pantry ingredients and prep skills. As other reviewers have noted, these are not quick or easy recipes, but they are worthy of anyone with the time and interest in improving their cooking skills.
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