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The Lost Explorer : Finding Mallory On Mount Everest
 
 
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The Lost Explorer : Finding Mallory On Mount Everest [Hardcover]

Conrad Anker (Author), David Roberts (Author)
4.3 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (25 customer reviews)


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Book Description

November 10, 1999
This is the adventure story of the year -- how Conrad Anker found the body of George Mallory on Mount Everest, casting an entirely new light on the mystery of the explorer who may have conquered Everest seventy-five years ago.

On June 8, 1924, George Leigh Mallory and Andrew "Sandy" Irvine were last seen climbing toward the summit of Mount Everest. Clouds soon closed around them, and they vanished into history. Ever since, mountaineers have wondered whether they reached the summit twenty-nine years before Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay.

On May 1, 1999, Conrad Anker, one of the world's strongest mountaineers, discovered Mallory's body lying facedown, frozen into the scree and naturally mummified at 27,000 feet on Everest's north face. The condition of the body, as well as the artifacts found with Mallory, including goggles, an altimeter, and a carefully wrapped bundle of personal letters, are important clues in determining his fate. Seventeen days later, Anker free-climbed the Second Step, a 90-foot sheer cliff that is the single hardest obstacle on the north ridge. The first expedition known to have conquered the Second Step, a Chinese team in 1975, had tied a ladder to the cliff, leaving unanswered the question of whether Mallory could have climbed it in 1924. Anker's climb was the first test since Mallory's of the cliff's true difficulty. In treacherous conditions, Anker led teammate Dave Hahn from the Second Step to the summit.

Reflecting on the climb, Anker explains why he thinks Mallory and Irvine failed to make the summit, but at the same time, he expresses his awe at Mallory's achievement with the primitive equipment of the time. Stunningly handsome andcharismatic, Mallory charmed everyone who met him during his lifetime and continues to fascinate mountaineers today. He was an able writer, a favorite of the Bloomsbury circle, and a climber of legendary gracefulness. "The Lost Explorer" is the remarkable story of this extraordinarily talented man and of the equally talented modern climber who spearheaded a discovery that may ultimately help solve the mystery of Mallory's disappearance.



Editorial Reviews

Review

...ranks with the best mountaineering literature. -- The New York Times Book Review, Susan Reed

Galen Rowell photographer, writer, and mountaineer An enigma for seventy-five years, George Leigh Mallory comes alive through the very separate personal connections of Conrad Anker and David Roberts, great mountaineers in their own right, who weave a spellbinding tale. -- Review

About the Author

Conrad Anker is a professional mountaineer who has made breakthrough first ascents throughout the world, from the Himalayas to Antarctica and Patagonia.

Product Details

  • Hardcover: 192 pages
  • Publisher: Simon & Schuster; First Printing edition (November 10, 1999)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0684871513
  • ISBN-13: 978-0684871516
  • Product Dimensions: 8.6 x 5.5 x 1.1 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 13.6 ounces
  • Average Customer Review: 4.3 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (25 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #701,441 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

25 Reviews
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4 star:
 (3)
3 star:
 (6)
2 star:
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Average Customer Review
4.3 out of 5 stars (25 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

29 of 31 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Mallory's Legend Preserved, July 3, 2000
This review is from: The Lost Explorer : Finding Mallory On Mount Everest (Hardcover)
I became interested in finding out more about George Mallory after watching a television documentary describing the discovery of his body in May,1999. When I learned that one of the climbers on that expedition had co-authored a book describing the historical find I knew I wanted to read it.

By reading it, a lot can be learned about climbing, even by a "grounded" reader like myself. Being a non-climber, I really wasn't aware of the mystique and high regard in which Mallory is held within the community of men and women who challenge themselves to the extremes of mental, emotional and physical endurance by pitting themselves against the unforgiving mountains "because they are there".

The book provides extensive insight into the psyche of Mallory and Conrad Anker, the man who found his body. The talent to climb, the courage to confront the ultimate challenges and the respect and awe held for the mountains, especially Everest, seem to be shared by both.

In my estimation the book accomplished what it set out to do. Most importantly, it preserved Mallory's legend. He was treated with reverance and his feats and accomplishments become more mind boggling when you consider the technological limitations with which he worked.

It helped provide insight into why people climb mountains. Mountaineering taps into the competitive nature of man; Everest is seen as an opponent that needs to be conquered. It is the proving ground that measures a person's mettle and stimulates the instinct for self survival.

The book spends time desribing Andrew Irvine, incredible in his own right, and sheds light on why he was chosen as Mallory's partner for that fateful climb.

The book also addresses the question on most readers' minds, "Did Mallory summit?". Anker followed in Mallory's footsteps and attempted to duplicate the climb. That helped him theorize that Mallory did not make it to the top. He explains clearly why he reached that conclusion and identifies several points that justify his conclusion. He even hypothesizes how Mallory and Irvine died and where Irvine's body might be located.

Finally, this illuminating book offers several anecdotes that both entertain and educate about the most dangerous and exhilirating sport known to man.

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18 of 19 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Incredible Story, November 1, 1999
By A Customer
This review is from: The Lost Explorer : Finding Mallory On Mount Everest (Hardcover)
This book provides a great story about an incredible discovery. I really enjoyed the balance between Roberts' historical perspective and Anker's first-hand experience. While we may never know for sure whether Mallory and Irvine made the summit, or what exactly happened on their final attempt to reach the summit, this book provides solid information and analysis via thoroughly enjoyable writing, which is more than we've ever had before. Excellent job!
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30 of 35 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars An honest, well written, historically important book, October 30, 1999
By A Customer
This review is from: The Lost Explorer : Finding Mallory On Mount Everest (Hardcover)
This is the best of the Mallory books for several reasons. It is by far the best written, and it also has the most believable, most rational analysis of Mallory's disappearance.

Anker did not sell out. He simply didn't agree with the party line that Hemmleb/Simonson/Johnson were trying to foist on the world--that Mallory climbed Everest--so he decided to do his own book, in order that his own ideas could find an audience. If you read this book carefully, and compare it to the horrible writing and irresponsible speculation of the Hemmleb/Simonson/Johnson book, you will appreciate what an important book "The Lost Explorer" is.

It's sad that the Hemmleb-Simonson camp has launched a smear campaign against Anker. If Anker hadn't been on the expedition, they would never have found Mallory, they would never have climbed the Second Step, and they would never have reached the summit.

I am glad Anker wrote this book. If you read it, you'll be glad too.

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Inside This Book (learn more)
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First Sentence:
I HAD JUST SAT DOWN to take off my crampons, because the traverse across the rock band ahead would be easier without them. Read the first page
Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
final pyramid, climbing leader, serious frostbite, northeast ridge, expedition book, oxygen apparatus, fixed ropes, bottled oxygen, summit day, summit attempt
Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
North Col, Base Camp, Second Step, First Step, Mount Everest, Yellow Band, Dave Hahn, George Mallory, Geoffrey Winthrop Young, Rongbuk Glacier, Conrad Anker, Jake Norton, Andy Politz, East Rongbuk, Sandy Irvine, Tap Richards, Geoffrey Bruce, Teddy Norton, Mushroom Rock, Noel Odell, Rongbuk Monastery, Great Couloir, John Noel, Russell Brice, Wang Hongbao
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Everest by The Royal Geographic Society
 


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