From Publishers Weekly
The recipes for cocktails and food from the tasting bar at swank Vancouver restaurant Lumière are many things—inventive, time-consuming, multi-layered—but "light" they are not, neither in the caloric sense, nor in the whipping-up-something-quickly sense. Feenie, Lumière's chef/owner, and Coldham, its sous chef, certainly cannot be faulted for presenting the same old thing. Deep-Fried Brandade with Black Olive Tapenade temptingly rolls chunks of cod and potatoes in breadcrumbs, then crisps them. In an example of successful fusion, Sake and Maple Marinated Sablefish with Hijiki-Soy Sauce marries Japanese flavors with a Canadian classic, maple syrup. Other dishes, however, sound overpoweringly rich, like Squash and Mascarpone Ravioli with Truffle Butter. The one thing all have in common is their complex preparation. Lumière Shepherd's Pie takes comfort food
haute with layers of duck confit, caramelized onions, roasted corn and truffled mashed potatoes stacked in a mold. It's a clever concept, but a lot of work. Color photos.
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