Special thanks to all the reviewers here who led me to (and cautioned me about) this mouse. The MMO7 provides incredible utility and comfort, but required me to spend significant effort finding the perfect balance between all of the adjustable ergonomics. You cannot pull this mouse from the box and expect to hit the ground running. After taking the time to really fit the hardware and software to my needs, I came away with a mouse that easily surpassed my experiences with several gaming mice, including my previous favorite, the Razer Naga Hex.
To save you time and help you make the most of this mouse, I discuss my calibration process after the hardware and software review.
The mouse itself:
The MMO7 is small! The width of my thumb can simultaneously touch the buttons next to the horizontal scroller, and the button on the left wingplate. That said, I never accidentally clicked a button -- they have good placement (and high tension). By contrast, the MMO7 is very wide, which I found surprisingly comfortable for this particular mouse.
Button tension is high for all the side buttons -- no accidental button presses here. I prefer the low-but-precise tension of the Naga Hex's buttons, but I do fine with the MMO7's buttons. The left and right click (and left and right action buttons) as well as the "shift" button on the top of the right-side panel have somewhat less tension. Meanwhile, the "mode" button on the left/top flare panel (to the left of the left-click button) is impossible to click without really holding the mouse tightly -- I could never use that button in the middle of doing anything else.
Once I got my hand position calibrated, I didn't run into problems accidentally pushing the action buttons. For the record, a firmware update now grants the ability to disable the action buttons. Go get the update if you haven't already. Apparently, a software update is on the way that will let us actually reprogram the action buttons.
Both scroll wheels "click" with good tension (no smooth/free scrolling).
Pressing the "shift" button at the top of the right-side panel required a counterpress from my thumb, so it wasn't practical to use with a couple of buttons on the left panel of the mouse. Palm-style grippers may have better luck.
I like my mice lightweight, so I took out all the weights, which definitely changes the inertia of the mouse.
The overall build quality feels solid, with a remarkably sturdy hat switch. I'm not sure if the other buttons feel a bit flimsy by contrast or because the high button tension makes the plastic buttons feel like they have more give.
The software:
I hate bloatware. Razer's Synapse software surprised me with its intuitiveness and relatively simple configuration, and Steelseries' software for the WoW mouse worked decent enough. But Cyborg's MMO7 software raised my standards: everything I need, nothing I don't, configurable button by button. This is currently the only mouse software on the market that can separately bind each of the left and right modifier keys (e.g. left shift, right shift), which opens up all kinds of possiblities for games that recognize this (e.g. World of Warcraft macros). Thanks to Cyborg's software, I can use the left modifier keys on my keyboard to choose between different abilities, and the right modifier keys (currently bound to directional presses on the mouse's hat switch) to choose between targets.
Cyborg included a "test" feature to see the raw output of the mouse (clicks, unclicks, and scrolls from everything currently bound). Why doesn't every gaming mouse have this? It makes building and testing setups so much easier.
I didn't try any of the downloadable presets for any games -- I much prefer building my own.
Quick tips:
The dpi button only cycles in one direction through the four settings you choose. If you want the button to switch between two settings, then set two alternating settings at one dpi and the other two alternating settings at the other dpi i.e. high/low/high/low, to simulate this feature.
Write down your precise ergonomic settings! When friends fiddle with this attention-getter, you'll kick yourself for not writing down how many "clicks" of the palmrest and "turns" of the thumbplate you used to find the perfect balance for your hand, after all the time you put into it.
In a nutshell:
The MMO7 gave me exactly what I sought for my games: a much wider, more intuitive, and more accessible range of options. But I had to spend the time to find the "sweet spot", the right configuration where I could smoothly use most of the mouse's offerings. Was it worth the money (and more importantly, the time)? After only two weeks, and after several previous mice that were "close but not quite", I can already say yes.
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Calibration:
(caveat: I use the "claw" style grip -- "palm" style grippers may need a different approach).
From an ergonomic standpoint, the 5-way hat switch on the side acts as the anchor point for everything you do with this mouse. Go into the profile editor, to the programming tab, and set each of the four hat switch directions plus the "push in" button direction to work as numbers 1 through 5 on your keyboard. Pushing forward on the hat switch will work the same as pushing "1" on your keyboard, and pushing in the hat switch itself will yield a "5". Save your settings. Now open Notepad (in Windows) or Simpletext (on a Mac), and let's get started.
Push forward on the hat switch, and a number appears in Notepad. Do it a few times. Did your mouse pointer stay put, or (like me) did it slide up and to the left? If it slid, that means either you need additional "squeeze" on the mouse from your ring finger to counterbalance your thumb motion, or your hand is too far down the mouse. Work with these two aspects until you can consistently get the "hat switch forward" motion to produce numbers comfortably, and without moving the pointer.
Next, push back on the hat switch a few times, and other numbers appear in Notepad. Did the pointer stay put, or did it drift to the lower right like it did for me? To get more "squeeze" for this motion, the joints below your ring and pinky fingers should fold in to counterbalance your thumb motion. If the palmrest gets in the way, adjust the palmrest inward/up a notch or two. If those two finger joints don't encounter enough resistance, adjust the palmrest outward/down a notch or two, or trade out the palmrest for either the rubberized one or the higher one.
Now, alternate between the two hat switch presses, forward and backward. As the numbers appear in Notepad, see where your pointer goes. Remember, the mouse is supposed to work for you, not the other way around. If a particular button press doesn't work comfortably, adjust the palmrest to get better leverage or adjust your hand to get better squeeze balance. I had to switch out the pinky panel with the rubberized version to keep from sliding all over the place. Take some time to find the sweet spot where the back-and-forth hat switch motion is comfortable.
Time for the next pair of motions. Pushing down on the hat switch worked pretty well for me, but pushing up? Gads. If the pointer balks to the lower right, or even if (like me) you actually get lift on your mouse, your console controller skills kicked in -- that's your wrist trying to help. Wrist action works great for game controller buttons, and for mouse movement, but not for mouse buttons. Get ready to learn an important mouse skill.
To press up on the hat switch, counterbalance the motion by pressing down on the mouse with the two knuckles at the base of your pointer and index fingers. The muscles activated are similar to when you want to "snap" your finger and thumb on that hand (e.g. jazz), but very subtle, and includes the knuckle below your pointer finger. If you try too hard for this motion, you'll feel like your wrist and hand got constipated. This is a very subtle motion -- practice alternating between up and down presses on the hat switch, slowly at first, and you'll soon amaze yourself with how relaxed the rest of your hand and wrist can remain while you bang out a bunch of hat switch presses. If the front end of the mouse lifts, then adjust the palmrest inward a notch. I imagine "palm" grippers will have an easier time with the "hat switch up" motion.
When you find the sweet spot for using the hat switch in all four directions plus the press-in, something amazing happens: the other five buttons surrounding the hat switch suddenly appear at just the right places, and the horizontal scroll wheel becomes easy to thumb.
This leads us to the "action button" controversy -- the two small orange buttons to either side of the vertical scroll wheel. If you find yourself pressing them by accident, adjust the mouse. Move the palmrest inward/up, and move up the adjustable thumbplate with the tool. Once adjusted, my hand sat further up the mouse, and the "action buttons" sat in fantastic positions (within reach but not close enough for accidents). Moreover, (not by coincidence) the "shift" button on the forward right side of the mouse became usable.
Every time I sit down to play, I quickly go through all five button presses on the hat switch and keep an eye on my pointer, to get my hand into the proper position to use the mouse -- a quick mini-calibration of the process I described above.
I wish Cyborg included a "trainer" in the software, where you attempted to keep the mouse pointer in one place as you activated the different hat switch positions.
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