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Make Your Own Working Paper Clock Paperback – August 21, 2001


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Make Your Own Working Paper Clock + Karakuri: How to Make Mechanical Paper Models That Move + Paper Models That Move: 14 Ingenious Automata, and More (Dover Origami Papercraft) (English and English Edition)
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Product Details

  • Paperback: 40 pages
  • Publisher: William Morrow Paperbacks (August 21, 2001)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0060910666
  • ISBN-13: 978-0060910662
  • Product Dimensions: 0.5 x 9.8 x 12.5 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 9.1 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 4.1 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (47 customer reviews)
  • Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #37,084 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)

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Customer Reviews

That said, it's a great project to learn about how clocks and timepieces operate.
Bill Winans
I brought along a piece of wire and the knitting needle and tried two sizes that fit very well - 3/32" and 1/8" worked well.
Thomas Bandy
It is a challange and it will take about a week to build if you work dilligently every night for about 1-2 hours.
anon

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

131 of 131 people found the following review helpful By "hazydavy" on December 7, 1998
Format: Paperback
I'm building this clock now, and having a ball. Nonetheless, I'm here ordering a second copy because I messed up a key part--you have to be extraordinarily precise in assembling this clock. I have a few bits of advice:
- Save yourself some shipping costs and order two of these now.
- Use Aileen's Tacky Glue as your adhesive.
- Use as little glue as possible (very little).
- Have lots of clamps and weights on hand. I am using spring clothespins and lots of coins. I think surgical hemostats would help a lot, if I had any.
- Be liberal with X-Acto blades. I may well use 50 on this project.
- Spend no more than an hour a day on this. Personally, if I spend more than that, I get impatient and make mistakes.
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59 of 59 people found the following review helpful By Peter Rowe on August 8, 2000
Format: Paperback
This project requires considerable time and patience but you *can* end up with a clock that really works. As previously mentioned I think the best strategy to to work about an hour or so each evening, it took me too months to complete the clock with extra hours on weekends. It works! The key is the gears. The main issue is the concentricity of the gear wheels -- in other words, their outer edge rotates a constant distance from the center. Get this wrong and the wheels will bind as they rotate against one another. Two problems: finding the center, and constructing the gear wheels consistently. The first gear you meet is the main drive wheel, it took me a week to construct. Put an axl in it and spin it to make sure it's concentric as you build. Make sure the inner mesh gears of the secondary gear (and others) are consistent (no teeth wider or narrower than others, trim them with a exacto knife if needed. Tip: they should be bent into an straight accordian shape before glue, this way you can see that all teetch are even. The main gear and secondary innner gear are most important -- up to the escapement. The later hand gears are no problem. Once complete you need to patch, trim, reposition axles, cut... Note that on the book cover the squished main gear teeth that the author adjusted to make the wheel concentric!
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46 of 48 people found the following review helpful By Patrick on April 12, 2008
Format: Paperback
Length: 0:44 Mins
Here is how the finished product looks like. Cool, isn' it?
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49 of 52 people found the following review helpful By William T. Lockman Jr. (lockman@aepnet.com) on October 14, 1999
Format: Paperback
As the author claimed, you cut the book into about 160 peices then glue and assemble them into a working clock. I just finished making my clock. It didn't work. The pinions and gears just didn't mesh right. There must be tricks to get the precision of alignment necessary for the clock to run, but the author revealed none of them. Lining things up by eye, and being very careful just isn't enough. I was surprised to read other reviews where the clocks worked. Even so, I was amazed at the engineering of these paper parts, and am considering ordering a couple more books from which to re make parts (the author recommends this from the start). At the very least, reading this book, and making the clock from it, will leave one with a very good understanding of how such clocks work, but not necessarily an understanding of how to make clocks that work.
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23 of 23 people found the following review helpful By Carrie Clayburn on February 3, 2005
Format: Paperback Verified Purchase
This is an interesting design for a clock. I put mine together in about a month (working several hours a night). When I noticed a couple of design flaws. The gears are not going to mesh very well, no matter how well you put it together. Also, since you must use wire for the pivots the clock hands are going to be extremely difficult to get to move properly since you cannot securely fasten the gears to the pivots. However, it looks great when you finish it! I did not put the cover on because I like to see the gears. Since I don't use mine as a clock I painted the gears and use it as reference for when I build wooden clocks. If you want to make a working clock I strongly suggest looking into making a wooden one. There are lots of free plans available online. I recommend a website called Gary's Wooden Clocks. This website has lots of information, tips, clock plans, downloads and links for the clock building enthusiast.

In short, this is a good introduction to clock making but is not its self a good clock.
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17 of 17 people found the following review helpful By Lee A. Phillips on November 14, 2010
Format: Paperback
The clock was fun to build and actually functioned - but it has some problems. Cutting the gears & wheels requires a precision that is difficult to achieve given the width of the printed lines. The internal "clutch" that drives the gears & allows rewinding of the strings worked perfectly for a while but then began to slip causing the weight to drop to the end of the string. Some suggestions:

* Expect to go through four or five blades.
* Elmer's Craftbond 1-Ounce Memory Glue Pen works very well for this.
* It's the + with four dots that indicates the use of a bearing.
* Use straight wire instead of trying to straighten paper clips for axles.
* Use a size 0 knitting needle for indicated axles.
* Prepare axles first and use them to poke holes in the various parts. Cut them a little longer han indicated.
* Poke holes in ALL pieces as indicated before gluing them to another and make sure you make the holes big enough to begin with. On the frame, alignment errors can be adjusted during assembly.
* Score and cut in the center of straight lines.
* Score and cut on the outside of the lines of circles, wheels and gears. You can trim wit small scissors later if needed.
* Don't curl piece 41. It's the internal clutch that drives the wheels. Just gently wrap it around and cover with piece 42.
* Align the teeth of the Motor Wheel very carefully when assembling it.
* Use glue sparingly on the wheels and gears to minimize warping.
* Always weigh down gears/wheels while glue drys and make sure you wait until it's really dry.
* You can use BBs in the weight.
* Use a thin or narrow rubber band.
* Use thin (but strong) string.
* Be patient! Take your time.
* Have fun!!
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