Customer Reviews

Makita 8443DWDE 18-Volt Ni-MH Cordless Hammer Drill/Driver

5 star:		(8)
4 star:		(3)
3 star:		(0)
2 star:		(0)
1 star:		(1)

 

 

I bought one of these drills as an upgrade from the 18v non-hammer drill version.Then I returned it and found that the replacement, from a totally different source, still had the same problem. The problem is that the screw clutch would sink and STRIP a 3 inch drywall screw into a 4 by 4. And this was on the lightest setting of #1!! Talk about a misadjusted clutch! I called the repair facility and they said nothing could be done about it. I brought it to a dealer to check it out. He verified the problem with his own 4x4 and his own screw. He said "all the new Makita 18-volt cordless hammer-drills are like this and this is because it's a powerful drill"!! Gee, according to the specifications, it has 400 in/lbs of torque versus the 404 in/lbs of torque of the non-hammer drill version. Yet with the the non-hammer drill version and in every other cordless drill I own, including DeWalt, the clutches in those work just fine. With any other drill, I can sink a drywall screw into 1/8" veneer and have the clutch stop the chuck right on the money. This is not a misadjusted clutch, it's a MAJOR problem with the drills I've managed to randomly sample. This makes the drill useless to carpenters, sheet metal workers, anyone who needs to drive anything less than a 3" drywall screw into a 4x4. The drills I've managed to find are all made in Japan (this is normally great) and I was told this is because they are first-run production models. American facories haven't been geared up to produce them yet. So why aren't they being recalled? Or corrected? Why isn't there even any provision for correcting the problems at the factory repair centers? Are the manufacturers blind, daft, or do they just not care about the end-users? Why are they still trying to "push these drills out the door" on anyone who will tolerate them? Also, I don't like the idea that Makita will only sell these drills with Nickel Metal Hydride(NiMh) batteries. They should give you a choice. They should offer their drills with both types of batteries available. NiMh batteries give 30% more run time per charge, but they can only putout 2/3 the amperage of a same voltage NiCad. Although, this usually doesn't make a noticeable difference. NiMh batteries are primarily used for low drain electronics. They CAN put out amperage effectively comparable to NiCads(2/3), but when you ask them to (as all cordless drills do), they don't like it and the cells in the battery break down 2 to 3 times faster. As the battery breaks down you get less and less run time between charges. So that "extra Ah(Amp-hour)" really never happens overall. I mean it DOES at first, but then you lose it 2 to 3 times faster than you would lose the same amount of capacity in a NiCad. AND, as a result, the the total lifespan of a NiMh battery is only about 1/3 to 1/2 that of a Ni Cad battery. ALSO, when a battery sits on a shelf long enough it loses its charge. NiCads lose about 1% a day. NiMh batteries lose 3% a day. When a battery loses so much of its charge, its voltage drops. When the voltage drops below a certain value, the battery goes into what is called "reversal". This is when the chemistry in the battery begins to change its electrical polarity. When this happens, the battery quickly becomes severely damaged. This happens if you don't use the drill for a long while. With NiCads, you have to yank them out of the drill case, religiously, at least once every 3 to 6 months and charge them to keep them. With NiMh batteries, you have to pull them off the shelf and recharge them every MONTH just to keep them (not have to replace them for at least $85 a pop). Also, NiMh batteries cost about 1.6 times as much as NiCads, and when you figure that they last half as long at best, you can at least double that figure. Try this: find a drill, subtract the cost of the replacement batteries and charger, and you'll find out how much you're paying for the to drill. You see, drill manufacturers make their money on batteries. Now with the advent of "enviromentally friendly" NiMh batteries, they make two to three times as much money. Only you don't know it yet. The E.P.A. gives out tax breaks(that's money to you and me) to manufacturers who offer NiMh batteries. Here, again, it seems that Makita is not concerned with the end-user but only with how much money they can make and how much hidden expense and inconvenience the public will tolerate. See, with the new drills, Makita dosn't even give you a choice between NiCad and NiMh. They don't want you to know let alone CHOOSE. The U.S. Military has ENDED its research into high drain applications (like cordless drills) for NiMh batteries. They've GIVEN UP! It will cost them too much money. As, for Makita, all they want is more of our money. Sorry, but them's the facts.

The 8443D combines an excellent set of features. The main negative aspect of this well engineered drill is its 6.03 lbs (without side handle and drill guide). However, the rugged design, aluminum gear housing, and the 12 screws holding the housing halves together requires a bit more weight than most of the competition. I gave up on my DeWALT 18V hammerdrill after I cracked its case in 4 places after making just one hole in cement. Prior to this, I cracked a DeWALT 14.4V in 12 places before getting a refund. This drill is decent at concrete work, no frigging cracks, yet. I don't think it is so suitable for drilling lots of 1/2" holes in concrete like I need to do. Around 3/8" is about all one should expect to do with this in concrete, 1/2" is OK in cinderblock and brick. A few 5/8" holes in concrete is OK, but this is pushing it. The all carbide tip of the Hilti bits is nice, by the way, but no bits come with this drill. Top quality cement bits may help this tool do good cement duty at the smaller hold sizes.
The only other negative I can find, aside from weight, is that the #1 position on the screw setting is about the same as the #5 setting on my Ryobi 18V. This hammerdrill isn't someone you would want to use for doing light duty screw jobs where you want to use the clutch for rapid screwing of dozens of screws.
However, the variable speed switch is the best I have ever experienced. It will turn steadily at only 13.5 RPM, or about 4.5 seconds per revolution. Try this with most any other drill. I can sink a drywall screw into soft pine with two pieces of cardboard in front of it and flush the screw right to the cardboard with no problem. Same with actual drywall. Now, this is not using the clutch, mind you, but with drywall the electric brake and the great trigger control makes it pretty easy without needing the stinking too-strong clutch. For major drywall work, or for light duty screw jobs, you should get yourself a drywall screwdriver or a 9.6V-12V cordless, not this big heavy boy.
I put 4 3" drywall screws into a 4X4 with #1 clutch position, trigger fully pulled back on low speed setting. Three stopped a little before becoming flush with the wood, one was about flush with the wood. It didn't come close to "stripping" any of these drywall screws, or SINKING the screws into the wood very far. Again, not so good for light duty screw work with the clutch, but no HUGE problem here, folks. My drill is serial 8785E, if this matters, Made in Japan. Could be differences in these drills if some are being made in the U.S. now.
As far as the NiMh 2.6 Ah batteries go, these have been working just fine for me.
NiMH technology is not what it used to be way back in 1996 and before. IN 1997 Moltech Power Systems and Makita Corporation introduced the first sintered NiMH battery for professional high drain power applications. In 1999 an electric vehicle using Moltech's NiMH Cs-cells reached the world land speed record of 254 MPH. Moltech's technology has also been chosen by NASA for work on the International Space Station, via a Makita drill powered via NiMH. Not all NiMH batteries are the same, and it seems to me that Makita has gone with the best NiMH supplier in the world.
The ability to choose the DRILL, or Hammer function and then switch to the screw function is handy. This means if you want to drill holes before putting in lag bolts you can switch to drill and drill the holes and then with one click go back to using the clutch for whatever setting worked best before.
The charger is well designed for water to pour out and to limit any problems in use at a job site. Unlike other chargers, it is not very open to dust or water damage and it can charge 7.2V batteries all the way up to 18V, Ni-Cad or NiMH. Two bit holders, using metal retrainers, is a good touch. The locking chuck makes bit changing easier and the larger sleeve on the chuck makes it duck soup to get a tight grip on large drills.
It might be useful to get a dumbell for working out one's other arm to help with muscle balance, since if you use this tool very much then one arm is liable to get much stronger than the other. Also recommend attaching something to it's security loop so it can be safely attached to one's belt and wrist when using it in high places. If this tool ever drops on anyone's head they could become history in a hurry! -- George

I have the 14.4volt/8433DWDE. A very nice hammer drill but I managed to find a reason (or maybe excuse?) for the 18volt/8443DWDE(correct #). Only through experience did I realize the 8433's shortcomings. I found battery life to be unsatisfying. It's 14.4v/2.6ah NiMH batteries provided 20-30 minutes run time while hammer-drilling cinder block with a 1/8" carbide bit. This is actual "on time" not including breaks or total time of project as it took around 2 hours to completion. My first project was hanging BX wiring (armored cable) in my garage off cinder block walls for placement of extra outlets.

I remember reading somewhere that higher voltage battery packs with same amp/hour ratings could last longer under similar conditions. Really? I appreciate Makita's quality commitment. So I decided on their 24volt (found on Ebay). After talking with contractors and salesmen at local shops they advised skip the 24v and stick with 18. Ok...Why? They stated 18volt was enough power and torque for "their" occupations and the slightly higher torque but significantly higher price didn't justify its purchase. Certainly appeared to be reasonable advice, I took it. Glad I did. My 8443DWDE has more than enough power for my masonry needs of hammer-drilling cinder block and concrete. As for torque, a 3" diameter hole-saw project (low gear) was reasonably easy to perform, albeit the motor case became fairly warm but not enough to engage auto-shut down. 3" length self-tapping wood screws (predrilled top board) into Douglas fir? Didn't lack any muscle here (see more below). Here's the interesting part: My 18v NiMH batteries are rated at 2.2ah. My 14.4v NiMH are 2.6ah. My 18volt lasts about 1/3 longer under similar conditions (insert big toothy smile). Does this make sense? I don't know but I'm not certainly not questioning it :-) Maybe my 14.4 batteries were lemons? I'm doubtful of this as my 14v flashlight out lasts my 12v light (both NiMH 2.6ah).

There is an issue I encountered which has been noted previously on this board (curiously, this problem also plagues my 8433DWDE). While assisting a friend on one of his home projects we were driving 3" wood screws into butt-joined Douglas fir 2x4s. We occasionally oversank screws. A few of them by my friend, not accustomed to its torque, nearly 1/2". This was at clutch settings #5 or #6 (only 1/3 toward full lock-up). The clutch never engaged (confused/scratching head). The 8443DWDE would have kept sinking screws deeper had he not released the trigger. Could be a significant issue for those demanding a sensitive clutch. For someone considering to purchase "one drill" for drilling and driving, I recommend you stop here and NOT buy "this" drill. Prefer to stick with Makita? Great. I recommend it. Look at the new "MXT" version (#8444) or M-Force line instead. I have a suspicion the MXT will not have this issue, but then only time and (insightful) reviews will reveal this. The clutch on my drill and apparently others, takes a Herculean effort to engage slip. This is NOT an issue for me but ONLY because I don't use it as a driver for most projects. I have four other cordless drill/drivers to choose from (I know my name might better be suited as Tool Pig, but alas someone else grabbed it before me).

A gorgeous cordless drill and like its 14.4 sibling a powerful, industrial grade, ergonomically well made product. I personally don't foresee ever buying another unless lost/stolen. Makita frequently advertises in their M-Force line its "Shift-Lock" drive. A one-touch system that allows quick drilling-driving changes. Makita's (pre MXT) high-end hammer-drills were already endowed with a version of this interesting genetic trait. It is convenient. Directly behind the chuck are two selector rings, one for 'mode of operation', the other for clutch. With drive-drill-hammer settings, it's a quick one-click turn from drilling to driving. Doesn't get much simpler. The 1/2", one-touch chuck (14.4 same) is relentless. I've never had a bit slip hammer drilling masonry or drilling ferrous metals in which the bit locked up in the material. Trigger-brake/chuck lock stops spin instantly and allows turning of screws without power. Fit/Finish is top notch. A little on the heavier side for a cordless, but this was not unexpected and is reasonable for its class. Not a consumer grade "weekender drill" but rather I believe targeted at the tradesman, it appears to be designed for heavy lifetime use. Its price has dropped considerably (..and it's about time as $300+ in my opinion was a little much, one reason for choosing my 14.4 at $40-50 less). As with other brands in "keeping up with the Jones's" fashion, Makita has fallen ill to the "more-MUST-be-better" epidemic. During an apparent fever-induced mania they have unleashed to market the current "torque champion" in its 8444 DWDE-MXT. At 560 in/lbs it even bests Hitachi's DV 18DMR goliath rated at 550, the previous leader. For a non-corded drill to have 500+ in/lbs of torque, all I can say is: "What on Earth?". I wonder how many experienced contractors recommend cordless for heavy-duty applications, when 8-10amp corded drills can be rented for $25-50? Maybe I could use one of these monsters to drill for oil...in search of cheaper gas.

Hopefully another comprehensive review, thanks for reading.

The Pros:

***Significantly better run time (than 14.4 version)
***1/2" bullet proof, pit bull of a chuck
***Industrial metal gear housing
***Accurate trigger response w/instant lock
***Simple, one-click driver/drill mode changes
***Ergonomics/design (clutch aside)
***Included auxiliary handle (however easily lost nut/screw)
***Included multi-charger 7.2-18volt
***Fit/Finish to make even a Makita owner smile

The Cons:

***Almost non-existent clutch sensitivity
***Easy to lose "tiny" nut/screw from auxiliary handle
***Now older version (newer MXT is unreviewed as of this date)
***Too beautiful? You'll get over it...eventually :-)

Summary: Good looking, brawny and a bit on the insensitive side, sorry (girlfriends and spouses) not a description of your man but yours might appreciate an 8443DWDE.

I purchased this drill from a local hardware store; and boy was I impressed. I have been using it for three months now and it has plenty of power for most jobs around the house or for contractor's as well. I was surprised to see that it had 2 clutches for different drilling operations / modes. The 2.6 Ah nickel-metal hydride battery has long lasting endurance. I have owned other 18 Volt drills and I found that I was making lots of trips to the charger; that is not the issue here. I find that the drill is especially useful for: putting holes in concrete (hammer action), decking projects (screwing), and making holes in most materials (drilling). The drill does have a nice handle to ensure proper control of the tool during high tork situations (e.g. using auger bits). I find it very interesting why no other company has not included handles on their cordless drills. The handle has a depth rod that works well for stopping the tool from drilling to far into any material. The charger is a nice touch. The charger stays cool (during charging) and keeps the battery at peak efficiency. The single sleeve chuck is very handy and locks the bits tight (this helps when drilling concrete--the vibration does not loosen the chuck)! Overall, Makita has put a lot of effort and consideration behind the comfort, feel, and performance of their newest 18 V drill.

I purchased this drill from a local hardware store; and boy was I impressed. I have been using it for three months now and it has plenty of power for most jobs around the house or for contractor's as well. I was surprised to see that it had 2 clutches for different drilling operations / modes. The 2.6 Ah nickel-metal hydride battery has long lasting endurance. I have owned other 18 Volt drills and I found that I was making lots of trips to the charger; that is not the issue here. I find that the drill is especially useful for: putting holes in concrete (hammer action), decking projects (screwing), and making holes in most materials (drilling). The drill does have a nice handle to ensure proper control of the tool during high tork situations (e.g. using auger bits). I find it very interesting why no other company has not included handles on their cordless drills. The handle has a depth rod that works well for stopping the tool from drilling to far into any material. The charger is a nice touch. The charger stays cool (during charging) and keeps the battery at peak efficiency. The single sleeve chuck is very handy and locks the bits tight (this helps when drilling concrete--the vibration does not loosen the chuck)! Overall, Makita has put a lot of effort and consideration behind the comfort, feel, and performance of their newest 18 V drill.

having worked in the contruction trade for 12 years i have used alot of different drills, everything from makita to porter cable to dewalt. The best way to judge a drill is not by the clutch, if you dont want the screw to go in any farther just take your finger off the trigger. Its as simple as that. I have found that Makita's generally offer a smoother motor and gearing set than other brands of drills( if you want to check this out go to your local home depot menards or lowe's). The triggers usually have a better variable adjustment than other battery operated drills. Yeah you can find stonger drills with more sensative clutches but if it jerks everytime you pull the trigger its gonna strip out the screws just the same. As for the batteries george does have a point even if he cant explain it very well. The Ni-mh batteries may have a longer running time(2.4 amphs) thant the Ni-Cd (2.0) wich doesn't really come into affect unless you are doing alot of drilling and draining the battery faster than your charge time. But i still prefer the Ni-Cd due to the fact you will only get on average 3000 recharges out of the Ni-Mh batteries and 5000 recharges out of the Ni-Cd. Which means in the long run the Ni-Cd batteries will run the drill longer. Having said all this i would still highly recommend any makita drill over any competitor drill for the simple fact that IMHO it is just a better feeling drill all around. And remember the tools dont make the carpenter.

Years ago I bought an 18v Makita kit with a drill, a circ saw and a flashlight. Recently I picked up a saw that came with this drill and the Ni-Mh batteries. Lot's of people are complaining about the black Ni-mh batteries. I have the orange Ni-cad and these black batteries, the black ones, lose a charge quickly in storage. I've learned to throw them on the charger the night before I plan to use them, and as soon as they start lagging I toss them back on the charger, so far this has worked out great. The orange ones, I've always drained completely dead before charging by leaving them plugged into the flashlight with it on, I've had them for a VERY long time and they work perfectly still.

As for the drill. The drill is good. I dig the lock up feature, it's like a brake. It took some getting used to but now I like it alot. You can turn the drill body like a screwdriver for the last little turn needed to snug or flush a screw, and it's not neccessary to run the drill in reverse then forward to change a bit. I've only used the hammer function on a few cinder blocks with a small masonary bit so far but it worked great. The downside is, like the other 18v Makita's I own, it doesn't have near the lag bolt driving torque the Milwaukee 18v does.

If you want a real drill, look no further. The three mode drill, drive, hammer drill selector is priceless. I have used other top brand name drills and there not even close to this badboy. This drill is an overkill for your average household use, but for someone that uses a drill everyday this is the one. The powerband is supurb and the battery lasts a long time. Makita has done a fine job.

Hey George,calm down and give me an e-mail. I am a Makita Rep in North Carolina and I would be more than happy to answer any questions/concerns you may have about this particular tool. As for the battery assumptions you come up with, you have no basis for your thoughts, they make no sense....

Drill performed better than expected. Good battery life, fantastic torque, hold on tight.

The drill also feels good in your hand, good balance. All the settigns (reverse, Forward, torque settings) are in easy reach. The drill chuck is fantastic.